And suddenly, in the middle of the priceless and artisanal dresses of “la couture”, arises the zany fantasy of Viktor & Rolf.
Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who have been demonstrating their theatrical and spectacular creativity on the catwalks for thirty years, gave their vision of the debutante ball here.
If we are to believe the applause meter and the many images circulating on Instagram, the duo is neck and neck with the Schiaparelli house (and her lion's head dress, worn by Kylie Jenner) to win the palm of the “wow” effect.
With the difference that here the clothes of Viktor & Rolf did not arouse any indignation.
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Viktor & Rolf haute couture spring-summer 2023 show. Imaxtree
Cupcake allure and exaggeration
What do we see on this collection?
In the beginning, a stack of ball gowns and layers of pastel-colored tulle.
Then, the absurd occurs.
Sugary glamor is exaggerated, unreal and unwearable: the classic cupcake-like dress is worn sideways, even upside down, obscuring the model's face.
It even goes so far as to duplicate the body of the model, who then finds herself in a corset.
The closed world of couture is invited to smile, even to laugh.
For the duo, these conceptual clothes that defy gravity are also a way of expressing a metaphor on the culture of the web and the falseness it exudes.
It is a “disconnection between what we perceive on the screen of our telephone or on social networks and real life”, explained Rolf Snoeren.
In the front row,