The Humahuaca
Carnival
, with its endless dances, rituals of native peoples and tribute to Pachamama.
The porteño corsicans, with their murguero influence and the identity of the Río de la Plata in the city's neighborhoods.
The comparsas of the Litoral, with
Gualeguaychú
and
Corrientes
at the head, full of color.
These are some postcards of the
carnival in Argentina
, a party that is celebrated in many towns and cities in the country, and has had its holiday since 1956. Interrupted during the dictatorship of 76, it was restored in 2011.
Since January, Gualeguaychú lives in full the Carnival of the Country.
To live the pagan festival, to get to know the country through its festivals and to enjoy a popular celebration with different nuances depending on the destination, here is a list of
places to celebrate in style
.
currents
“During January and February
the normal course of life stops in Corrientes
”, the journalist Rodolfo Walsh once wrote in his chronicle “Carnaval Caté”, in which he narrated the rivalry between the comparsas.
More than half a century has passed since that note published in Panorama magazine, but the fervor for carnival remains intact throughout the province.
Colorful costumes at the Corrientes Carnival.
Photo courtesy of Nicolás Alonso / El Litoral newspaper
Called the "National Capital of Carnival", Corrientes has two clearly differentiated modes of expression: the brilliance of the
carnival of the comparsas
and the
carnival of the neighborhoods
.
The first - the one that many tourists go to see and pay a ticket for the show - takes place at the "Nolo Alías" Corsódromo, with a capacity for 30 thousand people.
There the comparsas parade, with
more than 1,500 members
, in addition to the luxury and work of a whole year.
As in those days of Walsh, the rivalry continues.
Some of the protagonists of the contest are the comparsas Sapucay, Ara Berá, Copacabana and Arandú Beleza, among others.
Parades in the "National Capital of Carnival".
Photo courtesy of Nicolás Alonso / El Litoral newspaper
For their part, the neighborhood carnivals take place
throughout the Corrientes geography
, with its
itinerant and free nature
.
Every night, the comparsas tour a different neighborhood of the city.
The party is replicated in all the municipalities of one of the most carnival-like and festival-like provinces in the country.
No one, in any corner of Corrientes, is foreign to the party.
Corrientes Carnival, to enjoy until February 20.
Photo courtesy of Nicolás Alonso / El Litoral newspaper
Useful data.
Until February 20.
Tickets from $800. They are purchased through the Fullticket system (www.fullticket.com).
www.corrientes.tur.ar/producto/carnaval
Humahuaca Gorge (Jujuy)
If the Quebrada de Humahuaca is a World Heritage Site -declared by Unesco in 2003-, the region's carnival should have a similar honorary title.
Although the best-known celebration takes place in the Quebrada, the festivities extend to the entire province, from the capital to the towns of the Puna and the Yungas, or mountain jungle.
On February 18, the Unearthing of the Devil takes place in the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
Jujuy Tourism Photo
All the towns of the Quebrada de Humahuaca celebrate their carnival, although the best known is that of
Tilcara
, which is preceded by Enero Tilcareño, a musical festival that brings together the best local artists.
But the colorful carnival will
begin on February 18 when the “dig up of the Devil”
gives rise to nine days of festivities, music and dances, scattered with flour, alcohol and streamers, while sprigs of basil are distributed.
After digging up the Devil, colorful musical groups with their members dressed as devils come down from the hills singing, dancing and playing wind instruments to "invade" the city.
Before, during and after, the province lives
its biggest -and oldest- celebration
.
Thursdays of comadres and compadres, the Big Carnival, Chaya Tuesdays, the Small Carnival, Ash Wednesday and the Carnival of Flowers are some of the festivities that are celebrated.
Great party in each town of the Quebrada de Humahuca.
Photo Inés Pemberton / Jujuy Tourism
Although the dates vary according to groups and comparsas, on
February 26
, they will return to the hills to bury the Devil, who will "sleep" again until the next celebration.
A separate paragraph for the "
Carnival of the Yungas
", whose biggest celebration is in the town of
San Pedro
: more than 40 comparsas will parade for ten nights, between February 3 and 25.
Useful data.
Until February 26.
www.turismo.jujuy.gob.ar
Gualeguaychu (Entre Rios)
"The biggest open air show in Argentina", he defines himself.
Five troupes.
Fifteen floats.
More than 1,200 artists on stage.
The
Carnival of Gualeguaychú
-which started in January- is "The Carnival of the Country", as it has been promoted for some time.
The Gualeguaychú Carnival began in January.
Country Carnival Photo
The venue is the city's famous Corsódromo, with a 500-meter runway and a capacity for 40,000 people, with VIP areas and grandstands.
Like every year, some
figures from the show
come to the city to enjoy the carnival.
This year, some of the guests are Matías Alé and Mario Guerci, among others.
Also, as is tradition, each of the comparsas presents its theme;
Some of those who met bear the titles "León", "Impulso, a cry of conscience" and "Energetic", among others.
The Carnival has its epicenter in the Cordsódromo.
Country Carnival Photo
Useful data.
Until February 25.
Tickets from $3,400 (ventas.carnavaldelpais.com.ar).
www.carnavaldelpais.com.ar
The Rioja
Flour, water, basil and the heritage of
Diaguita ancestors make
La Chaya
one of the most traditional and genuine festivals in the country.
The great party is held at the Ciudad de la Rioja Autodrome, but in reality it extends to the entire territory of the province, with adults, youth and children playing in the streets until dawn.
La Chaya, the great festival of La Rioja.
Photo Tourism La Rioja
This year,
renowned artists such
as Soledad, Axel, Luciano Pereyra, Sabroso, La Bruja Salguero, Los Nominadores del Alba, Peteco Carabajal, Karina, Dale Q'Va, La Delio Valdez, Sergio Galleguillo -one of the the most popular people from La Rioja at the country's festivals- and Los Palmeras, among many others.
There will also be local artists, departmental delegations and the winners of the Pre Chaya contest.
The streets with garlands, the vidalas, the bumps and the legendary love story between Chaya and the demigod Pujllay are some of the ingredients of this popular festival, which has colorful
parades through the
city's neighborhoods.
Flour, water, basil in La Chaya, La Rioja.
Photo Tourism La Rioja
Useful data.
From February 9 to 13.
Tickets from $1,500, through the Ticketek system (www.ticketek.com.ar).
www.lariojachaya.com.ar
Cerrillos (Salta)
“
Tents from Salta, I remember them again, bandoneon and guitar, zambas to dance
”, says the composition by Juan José Solá in honor of the carnivals of that northern province.
The term carpero comes precisely from the tents in which the carnival-goers sought refuge between dancing and dancing.
And, why not say it, between drinks.
That word became a cultural icon with the “
zambas carperas
”, which have the sound of the bandoneon always present.
“
Provincial Capital of Carnival
”, the town of
Cerrillos
, 16 km south of the city of Salta, is perhaps the one that best embodies that spirit of folklore and carnival, which is also lived in other nearby towns in the Lerma Valley and in the rest of the province.
This year the 117th edition of the Corso de Flores will be held, with murgas and comparsas, in addition to the traditional Salta tents.
The El Chañarcito tent, in the historic house of the musician Marcos Tames, is one of the most famous and frequented by heroes of Argentine folklore.
Useful data: February 11.
www.cerrillos.gob.ar
May 25 (Buenos Aires)
"Come to enjoy the beauty, color and joy of the great carnival of the province", says the promotion of the great party of the city,
220 km from the City of Buenos Aires
.
During carnival, Boulevard Valmarrosa, located in the beautiful Parque Laguna Las Mulitas, is transformed into a
large corsódromo
with capacity for six thousand spectators.
Carnival May 25, 220 km from the Capital.
Photo Municipality of May 25
Around 500 people parade through the streets, representing the most important comparsas.
The property has about 30 hectares to enjoy the popular festival in peace, which offers VIP areas, chairs and tables, gastronomy service and parking.
This year, in keeping with the World Cup festivities,
La Mosca
will offer a show on February 20 as part of the Provincial Festival and the election of the Ambassadors of the carnival commission.
Parades on May 25, Buenos Aires province.
Photo Municipality of May 25
Useful data.
In February, 11, 18, 19 and 25. Tickets from $500
. www.carnaval25demayo.com.ar
Lincoln (Buenos Aires)
The town located in the northwest of the province of Buenos Aires has a
long tradition
on the subject.
That land was declared "
National Capital of the Artisanal Carnival
" by a municipal ordinance and by the National Congress.
The bigheads star in the Lincoln Carnival.
Photo Lincoln Township
The title came from the work of the
cartapesta
masters , who began to make excellent crafts with paper and paste at the beginning of the 20th century and became benchmarks in the province.
The parade of
big heads, floats, batucadas and mechanical attractions
are the stars of the carnival, which also has a section reserved for children, more than ten canteens and twenty food trucks with different gastronomic options.
Jorge Rojas, La Beriso and La K'onga are some of the artists who will animate the great popular festival,
one of the most recognized in the province
of Buenos Aires.
Impressive parades at the Lincoln Carnival.
Photo Lincoln Township
Useful data.
Between February 10 and 21, with free admission.
www.carnavalincoln.com
Buenos Aires Carnival
In 1997, the activities of the Buenos Aires carnival groups were declared “
Cultural Heritage of the City of Buenos Aires
”.
The
identity of the neighborhoods
is the flag during the celebration of carnival in the capital of the country.
The Buenos Aires murgas take to the streets to celebrate Carnival.
Photo Telam
If there is something that characterizes the celebration, it is its decentralization.
The murguera groups -more than 100- perform in
sports centers, amphitheatres, squares and parks throughout the city
, with their murgas, groups and parades.
Useful data.
Saturdays and Sundays in February from 8:00 p.m. Closing will be on Monday, February 20 along Avenida de Mayo.
Free.
Carnival of Arias, Cordoba.
Photo Cordoba Tourism
Arias (Cordoba)
If Córdoba is synonymous with cumbia and cuarteto, the carnival could not be the exception.
In addition to floats, comparsas, dancers and batucada, the city will present a billboard with artists of this genre, such as Ulises, Q' Lokura and Dale Q' Va.
They will also be from the Kapanga and Estelares party.
Useful data.
February 10 and 19.
Tickets from $500
. Instagram @arias_carnaval
Carnival of Arias, Cordoba.
Photo Cordoba Tourism
Villa Angela (Chaco)
The Villangelenses Super Carnivals, as they are known, are a classic in the Litoral area.
In addition to the classic comparsas, such as Bahía Samberos, Ará Sunú and Hawaianas, this carnival has a particularity: it gives space to the youngest, with their own formations.
Useful data.
Saturdays 11 and 18 and Sunday 19 February (
www.villaangelaprensa.com.ar
).
From Rio to Venice or New Orleans, a world party
In
the most diverse places in the world
, on the five continents, carnival is celebrated with its traditions and specific characteristics.
Here are some of the most iconic, which are worth seeing.
Rio de Janeiro Brazil.
It is one of the
biggest and most impressive shows in the world
.
Going to Rio de Janeiro for carnival is undoubtedly on the list of experiences that one should have at least once in their life.
Every year, the great party brings together millions of people who come from all over the world to enjoy the show.
Characters in the Sambadrome of Rio de Janeiro.
Photo AP Photo/Bruna Prado
The most watched -and televised- is the one that takes place in the
Sambadrome
, with lavish costumes -full of ornaments, glitter and feathers- and world-famous floats.
But
the big party is everywhere
.
It is estimated that some 12 million people enjoyed carnival in the streets of Rio in the 2022 edition of a party that began with the arrival of the Portuguese.
The first records are from 1533
in Pernambuco, with a European style of dances and masks.
Today, it is the biggest party with the most deeply rooted identity in all the Brazilian people.
In 2023 it will take place from February 17 to 25.
Montevideo, Uruguay.
Considered "
the longest in the world
", the Montevideo Carnival is characterized by its shows of street musicians, comedians, parodists, magazines and comparsas, floats and big heads.
This year the Carnival started on January 19, with the inaugural parade on Avenida 18 de Julio.
"The calls" of Montevideo.
Photo AP Photo/Matilde Campodonico
In addition to the
Tablados
-night shows in a commercial, popular and mobile format, with the presentation of the different groups-, the
Parade of the Calls
stands out , part of the identity of Afro-Uruguayan culture: more than 40 comparsas of blacks and lubolos with Thousands of drummers go through the
Sur and Palermo neighborhoods
and play to the rhythm of candombe.
Calls will be Friday 10 and Saturday 11 February.
Oruro, Bolivia.
More than 20 years ago, Unesco declared the Oruro carnival as a "
Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity
".
And he deserves all the titles.
The great pilgrimage to the Socavón will mark the beginning of the festival on February 18 and will last until the 21st, although the celebrations begin a few days before.
Dancers of the traditional “Diablada” of the Oruro Carnival, Bolivia.
Photo AP Photo/Juan Karita
The
caporales, sambos and diabladas
, which represent good and evil with
spectacular costumes
, are the main attraction of the Bolivian festival, which brings together hundreds of thousands of tourists each year.
The musicians and dancers travel through the city along a route of about four kilometers, in which there is no lack of fireworks.
Bolivia 's
biggest fiesta
is a mix and celebration of indigenous and Spanish religious traditions in the neighboring country.
Of course, you have to prepare beforehand for the height: the city is 3,700 meters above sea level.
Venice, Italy
.
This carnival whose origins date back to the 11th century, although it was only declared a public holiday two centuries later, will be held until February 21.
The party is very different from the images we have of South American carnivals, especially when compared to the Brazilian or the Litoral.
Spectacular costumes at the Venice Carnival.
Photo EFE/EPA/ANDREA MEROLA
In this case, during the days that the celebration lasts, people go out into the streets dressed up to walk and take photos in improvised or organized parades.
The costumes are incredibly beautiful, as if the models were taken from 17th century Venice.
Another form of celebration is private parties;
Of course, you have to break the piggy bank to enter, because tickets can cost 500 euros.
In any case, many tourists are satisfied with walking through the city, taking photos with the majestic costumes and buying a mask or blindfold, a tradition that dates back to the 13th century, when they sought to hide their identity during these wild festivities.
As in other carnivals, it was the only time when the lower and upper classes mixed in the streets.
New Orleans, United States
.
Mardi Gras
is the name of the carnival that is celebrated not only in the city of Louisiana, but also in the states of Mississippi and Missouri, among others.
Still, the one in New Orleans is by far
the most acclaimed in the United States
, and the city's population doubles during the festivities.
Mardi Gras parade parade in New Orleans.
Photo AP Photo/Gerald Herbert, File
Its name comes from the French language and translates as "fat Tuesday", which coincides -of course- with Shrove Tuesday.
The
floats
, the
masked dances
and the
comparsas
not only impress with their beauty but also with their
multiculturalism
.
And, somehow, they tell the story of a city that is a mixture of French, Spanish, African and, of course, American traditions.
In addition to the classic parade, New Orleans dresses up with
bars and nightclubs, mainly on Bourbon Street
, in the heart of the French Quarter.
Bourbon Street during Mardi Gras.
Photo AP Photo/Gerald Herbert, File
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