The year of manifesto dresses, of no gender style, of men's jewels, of oversized elegance, of white: fashion on the Sanremo stage is part of the narrative, it communicates like the songs.
After decades of carelessness, the big fashion houses have rediscovered it for a few years and are now the protagonists with custom-made clothes studied for months.
The transgression?
"It was that of Renato Zero 50 years ago, well before Achille Lauro. Today there are many on stage, but it is the uniqueness that counts because only that strengthens the personality and makes it possible to interpret what you are wearing well", Enzo Miccio tells ANSA. in Sanremo with Radio Italia (every day at 2.20pm also on Real Time).
ELODIE,
that in the second evening in The Attico and Tiffany & Co. jewels, wrapped in black and with transparencies, a dress that inspired her to play "an heiress who killed her husband and then regrets it", "is a real diva as well as the most eclectic - says Miccio - Beyoncè le speccia casa" .
To interpret their clothes well are
the MANESKIN
(in Gucci) with micro jackets, the body with ripped sheer stockings, the contrasting python inserts up to the liberating bare chest.
PAOLA E CHIARA
is too much tender
, coming out of the 90s with kilograms of sequins and meters of lace, "a look that is coherent with their history, fits in", he underlines.
CHEMICAL PINK
, on paper the transgressive of this edition, gender fluid flag, stood out: Moschino burgundy wool suit with cape-style jacket, touches of pink latex, long gloves and bondage-style black patent leather belt.
MARCO MENGONI
also bondage
in a look homage to Fassbinder's Querelle de Brest with an eco-leather suit by Versace, a gilet with studs and golden buckles combined with fringed trousers and he too has a ring, bracelet and Tiffany earrings.
And then in the evening duets again with bare arms but with a metallic suit "He, like others, are not masked but capable of wearing clothes that represent them", he adds.
And if
CARLA BRUNI
for the black velvet Versace of the evening of duets let it be known that she has been fasting for two weeks,
SHARI
in Dolce and Gabbana seemed trapped, indeed "dominated" as Miccio says, with the two leather sheath dresses worn so far, the spotted one and the red latex.
White is very popular and in full trend (even Giorgia Meloni wore a white dressing gown coat on an official visit abroad a few days ago) and men like it: from g IANMARIA
in
Msgm to
COLLA ZIO
in Arthur Arbesser, from
ARTICOLO 31
(Iceberg ) to
GIANLUCA GRIGNANI
in a white jacket with No War written, to BLANCO in Dolce e Gabbana.
Dresses-narrative those of Maria Grazia Chiuri who dresses
CHIARA FERRAGNI with Dior
and that they did discuss.
Shorts trend or higher with MADAME in Off-White, XL above, micro pants below, with
GIORGIA
in the prime time (Armani) and with
LEVANTE
(Etro) in aubergine culottes.
70s touch for
COLAPESCE DIMARTINO
.
Plenty of oversize, worn nonchalantly by so many young people like
ARIETE
in Marni, with an instantly trendy jewel pendant,
OLLY, WILL, MR.
RAIN
in Gcds Among the youngsters the most experimental is
SETHU
, with complete sculptures by Annakiki.
Triumphs of velvet among
GIORGIA
in black Dior, the elegant
TANANAI
in Gucci,
LAZZA
in Missoni,
PAOLA ENOGU
at Armani.
What will remain of the Sanremo fashion catwalk?
Showy accessories, men's necklaces, says Miccio.
But also the very short pants and the confirmation of the XL that fits two sizes larger.
And cuissards, the very high mid-thigh boots?
They have been looking for affirmation for some time, on stage they had it from Elodie in the evening duets at Madame.
What if it was Leo Gassmann's basic white tank top?
His father Alessandro approves and posts the family photo from Vittorio to him and Leo, all in the Brando Fronte del porto version.