The women's collection on the catwalk today in Milan is the introduction to a new chapter in the long saga of the Gucci maison, designed by the internal team of the maison, released en masse, at the end of the show, to collect the applause of the audience in the hall, starting by the Maneskins, guests of the show together with colleagues such as Florence Welch, Beth Ditto, Halle Bailey and Asap Rocky, seated alongside actors such as Dakota Johnson and Xiao Zhan, whom the girls chase en masse from one show to another.
The Maneskin guests at the Gucci fashion show
The fashion show takes place in the heart of the Maison.
In the sancta sanctorum of the Gucci Hub, elevators transport the models through the building to the catwalk, illustrating the creative process behind each new collection: from the archives where ideas are triggered, through the ateliers where they develop, up to the catwalk where they manifest themselves.
A creative circularity - evoked by the platform itself - which is reflected in the collection, a rereading with eyes of the present projected towards the future of the recent history of Gucci, that of the sensual and sophisticated codes of the Tom Ford era, but filtered through electric colors and the opulent decorations by Alessandro Michele.
This is a transitional collection: after the farewell of Alessandro Michele, who left the creative leadership of the maison last November,
in fact, at the end of last month his successor, Sabato De Sarno, was announced, but he will debut only in September.
The internal style office, therefore, has the task of ferrying Gucci from the era - 7 years long, from 2015 to 2022, but above all free and revolutionary in contaminating genres and references - so profoundly marked by the style of Alessandro Michele to the new sign that he will leave De Sarno, who for over 10 years worked side by side with Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino.
The choice of the creative team was to identify the identity of the brand by retracing the recent eras of the maison, from the 90s to 2010, up to the present day.
A choice also personified by the cast and evident right away:
one cannot but think of Tom Ford - the Texan who relaunched Gucci in 1994 and made it sexy and desirable for 10 years - when the show opens with a metal bra with the crystal-encrusted GG logo combined with satin gloves and skirt black.
The erotic and glamorous language of the Texan designer - who had even launched a campaign with a model with her pubic hair shaved to form the Gucci G - is however filtered by the taste of the latest creative director when the seductive pencil skirts in transparent fabrics and precious lace , reminiscent of underwear, are combined with fishnet stockings in fluorescent colors or fur with crystal fringes, coats with colorful fur collars, voluminous feather hats.
And then there's the over 100-year history of Gucci, his codes, acting as a bridge between a