Belted waists, ruffles and wide skirts: Dior swirls gracefully in the 1950s

The image is almost an anachronism.

Beneath the imposing installation by contemporary Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, Dior has set to music a score with measured chic and retro notes for Fall-Winter 2023-2024.

Installed as usual in the heart of the Tuileries gardens, on this second day of Paris Fashion Week, the Parisian brand holds up a contemporary mirror to the 1950s. form of reconquest of femininity.

The one drawn with precise lines and old-fashioned details, including long gloves and knee-highs, which Maria Grazia Chiuri intends to revisit today.

Show - Christian dior - Ready to wear Fall-Winter 23-24

In images, in pictures

See the slideshow98 photos

See the slideshow98 photos

Ex-wives of the 50's

This decade is that of Christian Dior.

He who took off with a first successful show in 1947, and who left his fashion house orphaned on his early death in 1957, was one of the great actors of this look which laid the foundations for the design of modern elegance.

But it is also that of three women, under whose aegis Maria Grazia Chiuri has placed her new collection.

There is Catherine Dior, the sister but above all the resistant, deported in 1944 and freed in 1945, who will give her name to the famous Miss Dior perfume.

Juliette Gréco, whose career was born at the beginning of the decade.

And finally Edith Piaf, whose piece-monument

accompanies the steps of the models with emotion.

“With my memories, I lit the fire”

Nothing like the tremolos of La Môme to move an audience.

All the more so that of the Dior fashion show, made up of international celebrities such as the K-Pop figure Jisoo or Charlize Theron.

A sound layer that envelops the ruffles of the wide skirts, the belts that draw a thin line on the waists or even the three-quarter length sleeves, delicately revealing the birth of the wrists.

An ode to the chic of this fantasized era, shaken up by daring notes: a crumpled fabric, a contrasting floral pattern, a roaring leopard.

Ultimately, a dressing room, which, failing to ignore the past, looks at it with the eyes of the present.