Sunday March 5, 2 p.m.
Akris
celebrates its centenary.
After immersing himself in the archives of the house founded by his grandmother, Albert Kriemler this time turned to the 1970s - when Max, his father, decided to put aside the traditional aprons that had been made until so the brand to start tailoring suits... This next winter wardrobe, with precise lines and materials that are just as luxurious as ever (double-sided cashmere, technical neoprene, very beautiful short velvet), is enhanced with romantic floral prints and d a
seventies
logo pattern
.
Particularly successful, the sober suits and loose tweed coats will appeal to fans of the Swiss house.
MM-Z
17 hours
"I often wonder what it means to be a designer for women when you're a man,"
says Antonin Tron, the Frenchman behind the
Atlein
brand , behind the scenes of his show at the Palais de Tokyo.
No doubt he imagines them as goddesses in view of the beauty of the first model who advances with small steps on her stiletto heels, divine in a tight dress draped in recycled jersey.
In its wake, the girls are each more sculptural than the other, in negligee of tulle or silk satin rolled up, pleated, gathered with finesse.
The only reservation is the short jackets and enveloping coats in faux leather and imitation suede, which are less beautifully crafted than the rest of this celestial collection.
V.G.
_
Read alsoParis logbook for autumn-winter 2023-2024
Monday, March 6, 10:30 a.m.
After the South African Thebe Magugu, the French Ester Manas and the Belgian Lutz,
AZ Factory
, the label of the late Alber Elbaz, gives carte blanche to the Colville label of Molly Molloy and Lucinda Chambers.
At the Cartier Foundation, we recognize the beautiful bohemian silhouettes and the
mix'n'match
of arty prints of the two English women.
A little less the universe of “AZ”, which, by dint of giving the keys to its studio each season to a different talent, ends up becoming more an artistic platform than a fashion brand in its own right.
V.G.
6 p.m.
“After last season, it's clear that
Germanier
can do in the rainbow glitter explosion.
But can Germanier cut a nice blazer?
Can he pull off the perfect black dress?
The answer is yes,”
reads Kevin Germanier’s note of intent.
Yes, the Swiss know how to do that, and without losing what makes its salt.
Namely a certain sense of spectacle, virtuoso sequin embroidery and radiant sensuality.
A tight-fitting minidress knitted with plastic beads and metal balls, a cord-cut wool spencer worn with marabou feather panties, stirrup pants laced with rhinestones and 3D sequined ball gowns were paraded.
“This job is a business and we have to present products to our customers.
I'm not saying I wouldn't go back to a little more craziness next season.
But this more realistic locker room shows that I don't have just one card in my game.
V.G.
The idea was to start from a material that is not noble to elevate it through design and hand
Glenn Martens
Tuesday, March 7, 3 p.m.
“The soul of
Y/Project
is technique and experimentation,
explains Glenn Martens, moved, backstage.
The last few months have been difficult for us
(bad news internally, editor's note),
we have decided to turn this ordeal into something beautiful.
Beautiful and twilight like
Lascia ch'io pianga
, which resounds in the space under construction on rue Médéric where the air is heavy with plaster.
Girls and boys walk slowly in their ruffled denim jacket, tank dress draped over the stomach, deconstructed bomber jacket worn askew or faux fur coat worthy of The
Revenant
on Fifth Avenue.
Their slender pumps stand out against the metallic earrings reproducing a middle finger or the sign of the horns well known to metal fans.
Abandoning her trademark sequins, Martens this time focuses on embroidery appliqué jeans over dusty tulle dresses with shredded trails.
"The idea was to start from a material that is not noble to elevate it by design and hand",
continues the Belgian, also inspired by
Antichrist
by Lars Von Trier and the famous scene of sex and death of the child (on the aria of Handel) which becomes pornographic prints which one does not distinguish immediately.
Glenn Martens really has a lot of talent.