- MILAN - A cuisine that is "awareness of one's roots projected towards continuous and natural evolution".
Perhaps Cristiano Tomei's words would be enough to definitively disassemble the eternal, apparent alternation of the concept of tradition and innovation: cooking is evolution regardless and must be linked to the territories (it is no coincidence that in the menu of Corteccia, the latest restaurant opened in Milan by the Tuscan chef there is no shortage of important references to the Lombard land, such as 'rice, onion and saffron' and 'roast beef and ossobuco').
But in the most current food bookshop the word sustainability dominates the scene, which gives RistorExpo the opportunity to open the 2023 edition (Erba, Lariofiere, until Wednesday 8) with the counter-current theme of "unsustainable food and wine ".
This highlights how, often, it is reduced to a matter of marketing: the intervention of the journalist Giacomo Mojoli remarked this, while the gastronomist Alberto Schieppati, for his part, recalled how the zero-waste culture was, only a few decades ago, a "normality" certainly not capable of making headlines at the time.
After all, as Tomei underlined, what is ethical, objectively good and with an imprint of flavor, is inevitably sustainable.
While Scabin, in his masterclass, warned of the fact that "traditional does not automatically mean good", with an interesting digression on the value of words in the kitchen, which often indicate a sort of negation of a starting point, as in example of the so-called vegetable hamburger or seitan steak: "To make sense, vegan cuisine does not need to borrow names from what vegan by definition is not".
(HANDLE).