A year after presenting as part of the UPCOMING DESIGNERS show, the promising fashion designer
returns to the Israeli Fashion Week, and this time with her own independent collection.
"Each one and her flowers" presents a collection of clothes for special occasions/
She is 32 years old, has lived in Tel Aviv for about 7 years, and is celebrating a decade of her relationship and the fashion brand that bears her name (ROTEM) she founded in 2019 right after finishing her studies at Shenkar.
"The studies were challenging and interesting, they opened my mind and sharpened the things I want to create, experiment with and immerse myself in," says Shaul, "I started working with a fairly wide clientele and it happened along the way. I didn't always know that I wanted to be independent, But I did know that I was going with my mindset."
She managed to dress some of the most famous performers in the industry - Yuval Dayan in her performances, or Neta Barzilai who wore a genius sweater of her own design, with illustrations and extra puffy sleeves, for her hit music video.
Presenting independently for the first time at Fashion Week - Rotem Shaul (Photo: YHOT)
From a small and intimate studio in Tel Aviv, Shaul produces high quality clothes that convey an experience.
Romantic and soft designs in which natural movement stands out, and whose presence cannot be ignored in any way.
Shaul's inspirations are based on historical and cultural events, sometimes also personal, which connect her to the heritage.
For her, behind every garment there must be a story - "If there is nothing behind the garment, then what in the world is left for me?" To convey something, and it should be different in landscape. In the end it's the connection, the uniqueness, the essence, what I bring with me as a designer in my unique way."
Your final project in the fashion department at Shankar dealt with your family's tragic story - the kidnapping of your grandmother's sister in the 1950s at Rambam Hospital in Haifa.
Is it still resonating and present in the clothes you design?
"It was a very specific project with a very specific story. At the end of the day, all the collections I create rely on me personally - on the family, traditional connection, on my personal perspective. These are things that rub off on each other. My final project really dealt with this very specific topic and this story will accompany Always me, and it's true, my final collection in my studies brought it to the front. But now with every new collection I create, I go back to myself first. Looking inside where I haven't touched yet and what else I can say is mine, and only mine."
Back to herself - Rotem Shaul in romantic and soft designs (photo: Haydon Perrior)
Last year you participated in Kornit Tel Aviv Fashion Week as part of the UP COMING DESIGNERS, and now you are presenting your own independent collection. Do you feel that the bar and expectations from you are higher this time? "It is no different this time, my bar is always with myself
For every project or collection that I approach, my expectation and the criticality that I set are always high."
This is also present, among other things, in relation to wedding dresses, which she designs quite under the radar. "I have a lot of brides, this is something that happens at the same time and following many inquiries I received from women in two years The last ones," reveals Shaul, "It's a completely different experience in the design process, and I have a lot of fun with my brides."
Yesterday you presented the collection "Each one and her flowers." What is the source of inspiration?
"When I started thinking and researching the collection, I relied on a sentence by the painter and artist Henri Matisse that has been with me for several years - 'There are flowers everywhere for those who want to see them'. It speaks of perspective, and how we choose to see things. If you choose to see the flowers bloom They will bloom, and if you think otherwise then you are probably creating this reality for yourself. Behind each one is a life story, and in the end each one faces its own fate. For better or for worse."
Knitted fabric that floated over a gorgeous tiered skirt (photo: haydon perrior)
"The prints for the collection were created in collaboration with Kornit Digital, and are actually illustrations made with the Toile de Jouy printing technique, which originated in France and is actually characterized by a complex drawing that repeats itself as a template, one that tells a story," adds Shaul.
"In one print I illustrated figures in everyday scenes; if it's a woman sitting on a stool in front of a mirror, someone next to a tree measuring a shoe that's too big for her, and another lying on a couch. The other print that accompanies the collection is actually my flower, that is, how I choose to see things, and it's a flower The grandfather, this is one of the flowers that I am most connected to. When he reaches the end of his life, he crumbles in the air, similarly I design my clothes with a lot of movement, and even after he dies the white hairs fly in the wind, spreading his seeds and this creates new life, new flowers ".
Rotem Shaul's track resonated with quiet intensity and stunning contrasting looks were seen.
Suits in flowing fabrics, a dress with cut-outs at the waist and finished with black ribbons, a perforated knit over a short skirt decorated with lace and pockets, or rich satin blouses teamed with chiffon skirts in a tiered silhouette.
It stood out that Shaul preferred closed necklines in the collection, whether classic round, low and elegant turtlenecks, or rather those that are rich in fabric and fill the neck.
The color palette was kept soft and neutral, mainly white and cream, with black locks and touches of red interspersed.
Plays of transparencies in a chiffon dress and layers in black, and an excellent clothing set that included a sweatshirt met with a satin maxi skirt, while a leather corset belt connected the two.
The red was also integrated into the present, but quiet, prints that told the story of Saul on suits, jackets or a lace-embellished jumpsuit dress.
Powerful black chiffon dresses full of movement (photo: haydon perrior)
Your focus, also in the current collection, is dresses and suits for special occasions with price tags that are not necessarily worth every pocket.
How is it received in Israel in your opinion?
"My prices reflect what I produce and deliver. In terms of fabrics, tailoring, and uncompromising quality, everything must be top of the line. Many items are custom designed, I don't do mass production. When customers come, and I have my wide and lovely audience, they know What they want. And I will do for anyone who comes what she wants and in her budget."
On ROTEM's website you can find really 'other' clothes, such as the white 'Autumn' dress with a spectacular flower decoration for 850 euros, the Victoria suit consisting of a jacket with a tie waist belt and flared pants for 990 euros, or the 'Reich' dress Coffee-colored L. decorated entirely with flowers in Shaul's handwriting at a cost of 1250 euros.
So who is the ROTEM woman?
"Everybody, actually. Who is interested, who connects with clothes, and wants to find the most special look. My clientele is diverse, I have young girls and some are older, the commonality is that they are looking for uniqueness. There is an audience here that appreciates an original local creation, and that is what spurred me on." .
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"My prices reflect what I produce and deliver" (Photo: Haydon Perrior)
Ready To Wear clothes, everyday or basic, never interested you to do?
"Even if I choose in the future to make a line that is more casual, it will still have the added value. The point is not whether I design clothes for special or everyday events, and even pajamas, that's not there. No matter the genre of the design, the idea He is the line of thought that will accompany me in what I touch."
You state that you create out of consideration for the environment, what does this mean?
"It starts with choosing environmentally friendly materials and without compromising on quality. All the fabrics I use are natural, such as silk, cotton and wool. As well as the fact that I produce according to design and personal order, and the fabrics are cut accordingly, so there are no rolls that are thrown in the trash. When you produce less wear and tear It is already possible to protect the environment more. In general, you can't say that fashion is something sustainable, but when I choose the working methods in my brand I do choose carefully how I can do it more correctly, how to optimize, and do less harm to the environment. So it is also It is expressed in printing methods, or if it is to use leftover fabrics, as in the amazing project I did for example with the Mine association that works for women in the cycle of violence. We sewed handkerchiefs here from beautiful and printed silk fabric leftovers, which were packaged and donated. These are not huge steps, because I am not a huge brand either , but these are steps that I can personally take to work more correctly and connect myself to the conversation."
Illustrations using the Toile de Jouy printing technique (photo: Haydon Perrior)
Do you believe that the participation of designers at the beginning of their career in the Israeli fashion week is a career/brand promotion move?
"Definitely yes, it's very promoting. When you make a collection and present it on such a platform, you shout yourself forward. People are exposed, people come, you create a stage for yourself and invite everyone who can/wishes to come and be exposed to you - to your process, product, design, And in front of a wide audience. It is definitely promoting and uplifting."
In your plans to also expand to the international market?
"Yes. I think that the whole construction of the brand is very organic, and of course under planned and controlled processes, this is something that can definitely happen in the future."
"Participating in fashion week promotes a career" - Rotem Shaul (photo: haydon perrior)
Tel Aviv Fashion Week