We want performance, the perfect result, we aspire to beauty built with long extensions up to the loins, false eyelashes like manga characters, plastic nails like Sue Ellen from Beautiful and yet we are attracted by the natural make-up, invisible with mineral powders, from creams with active ingredients from regenerative agriculture made in strictly organic company meadows, from hair dye so natural that the prepared porridge can be eaten without side effects, from packaging made with waste, for example potatoes.
To live well in old age we care so much about trying cell regeneration in all its forms, from minimally invasive fillers to hyaluronic acid creams, the most requested even in melting tablets to be dissolved at the moment so as not to lose effectiveness, to make sure with the devices, i.e. high-performance technological objects, to massage us, activate the tissues, stimulate them, conveying increasingly hi-tech products, willing to cryotherapy sessions to smooth out wrinkles and dry the body, to put invisible strips on them to hide lines of time was even just the trick of a party
We oscillate between
, the one that takes overnight as a processing time to obtain an effective result and the hyper advanced all in one, all in one, like the shampoo that does the cell detox, exfoliating scrub and even nourishing mask, the foam that cleanses make-up and then transforms into a moisturizing lotion, the foundation that is illuminating, covering, moisturizing, all award-winning examples that have cutting-edge studies and technologies behind them, All in one which is speed, practicality and also cross practice, a rush to the hybrid that contaminates every sector from skincare to nail, where nail polishes that are classic tend to last longer by not chipping on the first dish wash without being semi-permanent.
These are some of the trends breathed at
the Bologna Fair, a global point of reference for the sector which offers an exhaustive and global overview from above.
Italy is strong in the sector - an industrial sector which for 2023, according to the research office of Cosmetica Italia, estimates the turnover to rise to 14.4 billion euros with an increase of 7.7% on 2022, but also other are no less: the mythological South Korea, avant-garde country and world model, but with China to follow, both countries that work on all fronts of beauty that are original packaging, cheerful colors, design and innovations.
In terms of nature, the UK and Northern Europe are important countries, while Brazil and Australia are especially strong in terms of hair, while nails from America are unrivaled.
On closer inspection it is not just make-up and wigs, therefore futility, both for the economy it moves (the political passages of Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni and the Minister of Tourism Daniela Santanchè have demonstrated this) and for what it communicates.
These are the same trends of the society divided between technology and green, cross-media in everything.
Let's take a closer look at some more new and interesting things.
Skin care, cosmetics for the skin
From the pioneering Italian brand of sustainability
we look at urban consumers with light textures but spf to protect against harmful sun rays that oxidize the skin and cause dark spots, the Skin Regimen line - underlines the director Barbara Gavazzoli - is for them with a protocol that is also detox by removing the micro-powders of the city pollution and with niacinamide and peptides among the ingredients, a line which then in the spa or at the beautician or even at the hairdressers becomes a
, an armchair to sit on for lifting and intensive treatments based on dedicated products, dexterity and devices
from the French
we think of sensitive skins, with a line based on thermal water, from the name of the French town from which it derives, which has a unique mineral composition.
Pure, hyper-mineralized and with a structure so similar to that of the skin, it is absorbed quickly and deeply, for a super hydrating, regenerating and anti-inflammatory action, in practice a formula that is defined as biomimetic.
High tech from
, the Italian brand that is having great success with its innovations.
at Cosmoprof it brought the Deep line for treatments with a head with 19 0.5 mm microneedles for immediate effect but not only: it is a treatment to be included in the beauty routine once a month because it fights progressive oxidation favoring the cycle of cell regeneration that occurs naturally every 21 days, in practice it is a very powerful booster, like the other Carbossy line for a needle-free Botox effect that redensifies the tissues and which will soon be launched for the body as well.
From Ireland with the 2023 excellence award comes
, a line, the founder Nicola Connolly told us, the result of over a decade of studies that this woman has done while living and studying between Ecuador and Peru, seeking well-being with local communities.
At the fair, she made her debut, immediately rewarded, with a range of certified organic and vegan products that are a superfood for the skin.
Still in the field of awarded excellence there is the English
who has patented a tool, i.e. a tool, with a cold aluminum surface, a Cryo Tool, which can be used alone to smooth out the features or by conveying creams or serums.
Still excellence but from South Korea with
winners of two prizes all for inventions based on pure hyaluronic acid, in tablet format that is activated on the spot, in one case for a face serum, in a second case for feminine intimate hygiene, a very important patent for the menopause strand and also for the fight against candida.
Nail, a sector in extreme growth for years, which it is estimated will progressively triple
As colors there is an infinite range, with collections that go hand in hand with fashion - for example now is the time for the 70s fluorescent like the dedicated collection from
, the Italian vegan brand or glitterati.
The essential thing is that they are glossy, super shiny.
As a shape with a pointed almond stiletto, a rounded shape is now the most popular while square nails are apparently out.
the hard plastic ones to be applied with glue are also back on the market, as well as the adhesive ones to be adhered to one's nail and while reconstructions, gels, semi-permanents are now rampant, they are making their way, responding to a market vacuum, let's call them nail polishes hybrids, not varnishes that last a day or two, not 3 weeks but a fortnight and can be removed with normal solvents with acetone, easily at home, they are enamels that leave the nail underneath intact and therefore healthier than the others.
A 'gel effect'
or the new TNS line, 'healthy' nail polishes, which are also curative as well as brilliant and long-lasting like those of the American
, awarded for
Illuminating Nail Concealer
of the Kuur line, an all in one which also contains nourishing oil and does not require base or top, definitely a good goal or the Italian
, which exports 75% of its production and makes colors that are less and less dangerous, with as many as 13 free, i.e. 13 'without', allergies, etc.
On the subject
of Make up
there is the South Korean
, a brand that grinds awards every year.
Its founder Yanghee Yoo this year has won two thanks to 'inventions' on the theme of foundation: captivating and ingenious packaging and a cushion format, i.e. with a soaked pad that has a moisturizing illuminating foundation inside, a unique mosaic formula in the world.
Then there is a mineral trend, powder make-up like that of
, a green and organic Polish brand with antibacterial properties, therefore also very suitable for impure teenage skin.
, hair is a truly evolving universe.
We are looking for colors that are less and less harmful to the fiber and to the skin.
by Michele Rinaldi offers a range of powders to be mixed only with hot water, a porridge that can also be tasted, a perfect tincture for those allergic to classic colors and with an infinite range of colors starting from three basic ingredients: indigo, barberry and lawsonia.
there are many solid shampoos, the only ones from
, the brand from Sant'Arcangelo that makes them by working them cold so as to leave the active ingredients intact, "a formula that - underlines the export manager Antonio Amatucci - few other brands in the world use among the novelties also the cowash for curls with integrated mask and conditioner. From
which presented the colors for dyeing as a novelty, focuses, says Annamaria Remonti, thanks to the argan oil which is the heart of the brand, on high-performance substances but with healthy effects for the hair.
Defined or perfect straight curls from the Brazilian brand
, very popular in Italy, which brought to Cosmoprof the first professional shampoo (therefore for salons) which allows you to obtain perfect straight hair without damaging the hair thanks to its organic acids, without creating a filming sheath outside the hair.
It is, says CEO Edoardo Orsenigo, based on 5 organic acids: Salicílico, Alfa Lipóico, Glicólico, Lático, Hyalurônico and is without formaldehyde or parabens.
For the Italian brand b corp
which celebrates 40 years as a pioneer, the next challenge is to trace the supply chain of ingredients.
in the village in the province of parma, an avant-garde place also studied abroad, regenerative agriculture and a dedicated vegetable garden are practiced, so as to have the active ingredients at home in addition to those used by slow food presidia.
As for the colors, the Italian brand
, full of collaborations with the cinema, talks about the rediscovery of warm blondes, honey, bright glow bast colors.
the trend is perfumes for the hair starting from the spray of the brand, a real olfactory logo.
The green commitment is at the heart of
, the first and only professional agricosmetic brand that has decided to choose glass and aluminum as primary packaging and sets itself the goal of creating the first worldwide network of completely plastic-free salons and beauty centers, eliminating single-use plastic and finding options that simplify, inspire and facilitate a change of mentality, as well as of habits, an eco-active brand that has eliminated the presence of secondary and superfluous cases, packages and packaging.
Among the best practices, responsible waste management through a reuse, recycling and upcycling model, which makes it possible to collect and recontextualize discarded products, waste materials and by-products of production processes, transforming them into objects of superior quality or utility.