The soap opera will not have escaped anyone.
For more than a week, actress Gwyneth Paltrow, 50, went to court in Park City, Utah.
She was appearing in the trial against Terry Sanderson, about a collision that took place between the two skiers on a slope of an upscale resort in 2016. The trial was followed as a series, hearing after hearing.
But it is above all the fashion paraphernalia deployed by the star to present himself to justice which has fascinated the American media who have engaged in a sharp decryption.
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Straight khaki coat on March 21, gray suit on March 23, navy blue long-sleeved polo shirt on March 24... Behind the classic cuts and the neutral color palette, there is a message hidden: that of a woman who is not guilty of excess.
While the actress and wellness entrepreneur's speech is limited by questions from lawyers, she speaks through her clothes.
The outfits are however as discreet as they are luxurious, branded with exuberantly priced brands such as The Row, Gabriella Hearst or Prada.
The American media were quick to put words to this attitude: “
quiet luxury
” (or “quiet luxury”).
Gwyneth Paltrow in a Goop sweater, The Row coat and Celine boots during her trial. (Park City, March 22, 2023.) Peterson Christopher
Wealth and social function
This locker room, both sharp and "low profile", although instrumentalized for the good of the defense in the specific case of the trial of Gwyneth Paltrow, has thus brought to light a sociological phenomenon.
At the top of the social ladder, there is no room for ostentation.
Evidenced by the minimalist uniform adopted by all the CEOs of Silicon Valley behemoths, from Mark Zuckerberg's Brunello Cucinelli t-shirt to Tim Cook's Issey Miyake turtleneck.
The richer the rich, the less their wealth shines through.
However, this sartorial contradiction turns out to be deeply rooted in behavior.
It would even take root in ancient Greece according to the analysis of the philosopher George Bataille in 1933 in his article
The Notion of Expenditure
: “The social rank
(at that time, Ed)
is linked to the possession of a fortune, but it is still on the condition that the fortune is partially sacrificed to unproductive social expenditures such as parties, shows and games.
This system died out with the advent of Christianity and personal property, offering the “haves” the leisure to enjoy their wealth exclusively.
From then on, the social function of the richest disappeared and gave way to "a shame of oneself and at the same time to a petty hypocrisy", continues the philosopher who died in 1962. A guilt which leads this possessing class to prefer to enjoy its goods discreetly.
But not all wealthy people make this choice of erasing, and therein lies the whole nuance.
New rich and old fortunes
Another textbook case illustrates this phenomenon:
Succession,
season 4, episode 1. This American series (HBO) follows the tribulations of the Roys, a New York family whose fortune has been well established for generations.
Each member is the perfect illustration of what the press and social networks now call
quiet luxury.
, the same luxurious and discreet panoply sported by Gwyneth Paltrow.
In the first episode of the last season, broadcast on March 27, a newcomer comes to break the beautiful harmony of luxury.
Bridget, the new companion of distant cousin Greg Hirsch, is inducted during a birthday party.
The unfortunate woman shows up with a Burberry tote bag on her arm, lined with the English brand's signature tartan.
Facing her, the members of the clan all wear clothes of remarkable austerity.
The error is fatal to its integration.
The bag may be a luxury accessory, marketed at a price of 2890 euros, it is described as "ridiculously large", "monstrous", and even "gargantuan", by a well-integrated member of this clan who swears only by the sobriety of Armani, Loro Piana or Max Mara.
The misstep is unforgivable, Brigdet is relegated to the shameful rank of upstart.
This staging illustrates the sartorial cleavage between a long-established wealth and that, frowned upon in this caste, of a recent social ascent through money.
And for good reason, the choice of Bridget's character reflects "a use of luxury that is not at all knowledgeable" as Dinah Sultan, trend stylist at the Peclers prospecting firm, points out.
"Someone less 'connoisseur', who uses luxury rather as a foil, will not necessarily know how to distinguish pieces branded Loro Piana"
Dinah Sultan, trendsetter at prospecting firm Peclers
This flashy style is interpreted as “the fruit of an almost compulsive purchase very 'driven' by seasonal trends”, continues the expert.
In contrast, the Roy family's dress code, just as onerous, but more measured in appearance, "calls on knowledge that comes from tradition, know-how, heritage."
There lies the snobbery: "Someone less 'connoisseur', who uses luxury as a stooge, will not necessarily be able to distinguish pieces branded Loro Piana", emphasizes Dinah Sultan.
An opposition that goes beyond fiction, fueled in recent years by the marketing strategies of very high-end brands.
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Logomania, dead end
Two hundred euros are enough, at certain renowned brands, to acquire a piece adorned with a logo.
To extend their target, luxury brands have bet on accessible "loss leaders", which encourages their distribution.
Added to this is the advent of the monogram, of which each label has refined its version.
Or that of the it-bag.
The name, formerly reserved for a handful of exceptional bags like the Birkin from Hermès, is now used by brands each season to highlight a new model.
And this, with a lot of communication operations on social networks.
"There is a public fascination with
quiet luxury
in response to the extreme media coverage of luxury through influencers," notes Dinah Sultan of the Peclers firm.
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Among the changes in the luxury market in recent years, a change of scale should also be noted: brands have become global.
“To satisfy a new clientele, particularly Asian, it was necessary to produce more, which somewhat discredited the exceptional discourse,” concedes the expert.
Conversely, the pillars of
quiet luxury
, which include Brunello Cucinelli, Maison Ullens, Loro Piana and The Row, rely on an exclusivity strategy with few points of sale.
Therefore, players in the sector who wish to retain their exclusive aura have two strings to their bow.
On the one hand, that of the price of the products, in strong growth at certain signs.
“Which denotes a need to recreate a range leveling, a new form of exclusivity,” comments Dinah Sultan.
And on the other, that of aesthetics, which, on the catwalks, tends towards essentialism.
And is expanding into the consumer fashion market, driven by a gloomy economic climate.
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Silent mode
Obviously, the era of bling is on the wane.
A regression that can be observed well beyond the most privileged circles.
Inflation is at its highest in France since the 1980s;
the French ready-to-wear sector is devastated;
politics in crisis.
Economic difficulties and uncertainties push consumers to favor reasoned and sustainable purchases.
For those who can access it, the purchase of luxury accessories takes the form of an investment.
The evolution of everyday uniforms also reflects this desire to turn our backs on fantasy to refocus on the essentials.
Arket, the latest brand from the H&M group, has a philosophy of simplicity and durability.
Stylists and fashionistas go in search of the perfect white t-shirt.
Even Zara, whose model is based on the renewal of trends, has created Origins, a line that returns to the “foundation of a contemporary wardrobe”.
"It's about making choices that are a little more sensible, a little less emotional," summarizes trendsetter Dinah Sultan.
There is no doubt that fashion manages to make the link between emotion and reason.