Winona Forever, Tel Aviv (Yaniv Garnot)
It's 12:30 on a Friday, and the royal intersection of Shlomo and George in Tel Aviv refuses to slow down.
People who are trying to make a last order at Dinezgov Center and parents who have just picked up from kindergarten.
Weekend athletes with a yoga mat on one shoulder and weekend chefs with a shopping bag on the other shoulder.
Everyone is on the move, everyone somehow crushes themselves on one crowded sidewalk, when opposite is both wider and freer.
It's 12:30 on a Friday, and there's no time for crosswalks.
This is a non-stop city, which has definitely taken some long cigarette breaks in recent years, and is now preparing for another Friday-Saturday break.
Until this happens, the mobility is felt.
The transition, on the other hand, will come gradually.
Israel's secular Shabbat reception does not need an official time, nor does it look at the number of stars in the sky.
She pours herself out slowly, leans heavily on the chair, and at some point knows it's time to smile.
You eat something, and drink something, and suddenly you look up and see that everyone has stopped to do the same thing.
The janitors and the parents, the yogis and the cooks.
You can start, you can continue, for life.
A new meal was born.
Winona Forever (Photo: Ran Biran)
A new meal was born - something that is not so much brunch and not so much lunch and not so much nothing, but also a little bit of everything
Winona Forever's Friday lunch is a natural continuation of the wine bar's good opening year, but also a business constraint that knows how to read the room, and the crowd that likes to sit in that room.
Thus, night after night of protests, and the owners of the place realized that it was not only the dwindling amount, but also the general mood, which does not allow you to put down the anger gently.
And so, sunlight and weekend light, spring light that will come upon us soon and light of hope, and a new meal was born - something that is not so much brunch and not so much lunch and not so much nothing, but also a little bit of everything.
Or in other words: Avitar Malka's Shabbat reception, with "groovy beats, wild wines and food", as the place defines it, and with a loose but managed "Come As You Are" policy that does not require a reservation in advance and wants you to just walk in from the street, as you are.
Kurt Cobain is responsible for putting Winona and Johnny in place.
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Winona Forever
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You can sit down and put together some plates to start the day and some bowls to end the day, add some (and some) cups of each day and wonder what happened to your weekend promises, or why they were made in the first place
This lunch menu was created in a rather cute dialogue of Malka with his talented staff, in which he asked each of them to choose a small, private and symbolic Shabbat entree.
Produce the same dialogue paired with the evening hits of the place, and so you can sit down and put together a few plates to start the day and a few bowls at the end of the day, add a few (and a few) glasses of each day and wonder what happened to your weekend promises, or why they were given in the first place.
Here there is sourdough bread with butter and olives (26 NIS) and also Matbuha with spicy herbs (22 NIS), labneh with dates and thyme and an eight-herb salad with roasted almonds, plump zucchini fritters on tzatziki (40 NIS) and scordilia (34 NIS), chopped liver with a lot Crispy onion and pickled cucumber (NIS 42) and pickled fish, speckled Garbadlaks and Iraqi cheese that came straight from the plancha on fried vine leaves and thin slices of strawberry.
This is just the beginning, you mutter to yourself in front of the wealth, but then you give in and order one of each.
as you are
Winona Forever (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
One of each please.
Winona Forever (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
"I don't want to bother you with explanations. It's less important to me and to you too," Noam explained the only explanation you want to hear when wine is poured into your glass, "it just needs to be fun and tasty"
The sequel is more familiar to those who sat here, but no less tempting, daylight or not.
Gnocchi and black spinach, roasted leeks until tender, smoked trout bruschetta that leaves on your fingers all the inhibitions you still have, and also Harima (NIS 72), seafood paella (NIS 86), mussels in tomato butter and white wine, and the reconciling Mamliga with its Romanian-Mexico roots .
Next to this, of course, non-stop and alternating pourings take place - last Friday Winona hosted the MOBO professionals, for example - which have a happy purpose and result in a completely empty shelf of free wine glasses already around 13:00.
"I don't want to burden you with explanations. It's less important to me and to you too," Noam explained the only explanation you want to hear when wine is poured into your glass, "it just needs to be fun and tasty."
Purpose of making happy.
Winona Forever (photo: Walla! system, Yaniv Granot)
Cobain's modest childhood home - 1210 East First Street in Aberdeen, Washington - became a pilgrimage destination after his suicide, was recognized years later as an official heritage site and its current owner opened its doors for private tours last year.
A minute's drive away, right under the bridge that dictated "Something In The Way", you can also enjoy an entire memorial park commemorating the lead singer of Nirvana, which was officially inaugurated after years of zigzagging and hesitant city policy.
The park showcases a guitar sculpture, amusing quotes (as amusing as his quotes can be in hindsight), an air-guitar performance and quite a bit of graffiti.
But the most touching, oldest and simplest gesture is a small, simple greenish sign that was placed in 2005 at the entrance to the small town.
"Welcome to Aberdeen," it read, "Come As You Are."
So simple, so perfect.
There and here.
Kablat Shabbat, Winona Forever.
Every Friday from 12:30 p.m.
Shlomo Hamelech 2, Tel Aviv, 03-6777211
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