Merloza, Carmel Market: I don't remember when I ate out so much and so well for such a price - voila! Food

there is life

Marloza (photo: People photography)

Dor Even began his professional career at Herbert Samuel, continued at Taizo and then founded and managed the kitchen at Florentine House.

For many years, Mor Hazan managed the Ozaria.

For the past two years, the two, a married couple, have been running Marluza, a small restaurant that operates under the radar, in one of the alleys branching off from the Carmel Market, and is run as a kind of unpretentious and pretentious restaurant, where the menu focuses on fish and vegetables.

the bustling market during the day changes its face completely in the evening.

No mortars are blown up here yet like in Mahane Yehuda, Jerusalem, but there is definitely life and it is likely that there will be gradually more and more.

The tables face the tiny alley, the menu occupies only one page and its pricing is noticeably moderate, although it is absolutely clear that the costs of running a restaurant in the market alley are dramatically cheaper than in the city center.

Excellent opening chord.

Marloza (photo: Mor Hazan)

We started with fresh bread from the market (20 shekels) alongside a plate of spicy foods (18) and a marinated red palmida bruscatte (45).

The bread did feel fresh and good, the tomato puree was delicious and the spicy dish had a spicy range for every palate - mild to less mild.

The red parmeida on the bruschetta was given in a surprisingly generous dose considering the price, was excellently conquered and together with tomato salsa, green onions and plenty of chili accompanied the bread and spices to start a fun table.

It was an opening chord that highlighted the care for freshness of ingredients and a good hand right in the kitchen, one that knows how to make something delicious.

Photographer in the hall

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Simplicity, fairness, hand.

Marloza (photo: People photography)

Fish parts that are not fillets are a pure pleasure if they are handled correctly and the raw material is fresh.

It was a really excellent dish, the kind you remember for a long time and obviously come back to order it first

A winning synergy.

Mor Hazan and Dor Evan (Photo: Noam Frisman)

We continued to the fried moser wing (56) and roasted purple cabbage (52).

Fish parts that are not fillets are a pure pleasure if they are handled correctly and the raw material is fresh.

The moser wing was large, fried to absolute perfection, without excess oiliness, and the green garlic aioli lifted it into the realms of pleasure.

It was a really excellent dish, the kind you remember for a long time and obviously come back to order it first.

Roasted purple cabbage is a home dish.

This dish was homemade but with the touch of a professional who knows his job well.

Excellent tomato stock, really good paneer cheese, lots of toasted nuts and green grass made this dish rich vegetarian and not banal, very good.

So good that we wanted another vegetarian and ordered a fresh avocado dish (48).

Even here Eben's ability to take basic materials and create a winning synergy from them stood out very much.

Meaty lentil cream, intense tomato salsa, lots of confit garlic cloves, fresh thyme, and spicy touches (chili and Orpheli pepper);

All these combined together for another really good vegetable dish, and this time, in the absence of cheese, completely vegan.

big smile.

Marloza (Photo: Noam Frisman)

This meal has so far been a sequence of first courses and appetizers that we didn't decide on in advance, but we moved forward, tip toe, like in a food bar or a hamara.

We ate quite a bit because it was delicious and because the moderate pricing justifies ordering more and more.

Quite full from the various snacks so far, we nevertheless ordered a slightly larger portion: fish shawarma (73).

Since Merloza is a basic place, the fish that populated the shawarma was bream.

The stack of flavors of the shawarma was great.

Lots of roasted tomatoes and onions, lots of greens, tahini, yogurt, green garlic aioli and shifka.

There was a lot of all of these and it created an intense flavor environment, slightly spicy and incredibly tasty for the fish.

The bream was fresh, kept juicy but remained bream, as opposed to higher fish.

We had dessert with Melbi (32) which came in a jar, with lots of toasted nuts on top, and a slightly too sweet but really tasty cream.

A rare value for money factor held here.

Marluza's account (Photo: ShutterStock)

We finished with a big smile.

Dor Evan's Merloza has no plans to inherit Mol Yam from her resting place Eden.

It is a food bar that is located in the market, relies on its ingredients, and focuses on simplicity, fairness, a deep understanding of the chef and a very good hand, sometimes really great.

Almost every week I find myself freaking out at the level of pricing in the restaurants I write about for this section.

Remember, the restaurants are not to blame.

They barely survive.

It's the cost of living here that makes the occasion of going out for good food close to impossible for most people.

At Merloza, raw materials that would force them to a high price are avoided in advance, and in the less prestigious materials, they invest a lot of talent and love.

The result turns out to be very wise.

Can't remember when I've eaten out so much for less than 350 for two (before drinks and service).

So it's true, the shawarma is based on bream from aquaculture and not fish from the depths, but the bottom line is that it tastes right there and is also generous and not expensive.

This is not the place for special or important entertainment.

And no, there is no seafood or privileged fish;

But the particular Bish at his disposal manages to make a really optimal use, one that covers the deficiency with a lot of intelligence and talent.

As such, Marluza is a more than recommended place for a casual bite, with a value for money factor that is rare to find here.

I will come back for sure.

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Tags

• Restaurant reviews

• Carmel Market

• fish