Like every day, Marc Jacobs works in his studio in the heart of SoHo, New York.
The meticulous care to the extreme with which he is dressed is softened by his gaze which pierces a certain vulnerability.
At 59, the couturier belongs to this small tribe of precursors who managed to capture the spirit of the times and invent pieces that women did not know they needed until the clothes paraded on the catwalks. .
Last September, during Fashion Week in New York, he took over the Hammerstein Ballroom to stage a capsule collection, responding to the invitation of Londoner Kim Jones, artistic director of women's fashion at Fendi.
The event celebrated the 25th anniversary of an absolute icon: the Fendi Baguette, "the
In video, Linda Evangelista applauded on the Fendi podium for the 25th anniversary of the Baguette bag
A small bag in the shape of an envelope, created in 1997 by Silvia Fendi, heiress of the brand, the Baguette was born in Rome, but it was in Manhattan that it experienced its first glories.
Sported on the shoulder of Carrie Bradshaw – Sarah Jessica Parker in
Sex and the City
– he absorbed the energy of the city.
"The Baguette is part of pop culture," says Kim Jones.
Like a Jordan 1, it's a classic piece that could be on display at the design museum."
Kim Jones and Marc Jacobs have known each other for a long time: "I wouldn't be here without Marc," assures Kim Jones, recalling that the latter had hired him at Louis Vuitton to direct men's fashion.
"Kim and I continue an uninterrupted artistic conversation," says Marc Jacobs.
I was delighted that he asked me to reinterpret the Baguette through a collection.”
The Baguette was reinvented ad infinitum during the show.
The era of freedom and excess that saw it born inspired the American designer, who injected multiple elements from his universe into this collection of clothing for Fendi.
Encounter.
"Like any iconic object, the vision of the Baguette worn on the shoulder is enough to produce a profusion of images"
Madame Figaro
.
– What images does the Baguette bag evoke in you?
Mark Jacobs.
–
The Wand has a persuasive power, which is imprinted in the memory.
It's not “a” star, it's “the” star to which we confer an essential place.
Like any iconic object, the vision of the Baguette worn on the shoulder is enough to produce a profusion of images: we think of Carrie Bradshaw strolling in SoHo, with a purple Baguette.
It's sexy.
How did you find the stylistic language of this collaboration?
When Kim invited me to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Baguette bag, I wondered what I could bring to this accessory.
The first thing I did was work on the logo.
Logos are very powerful today.
I wanted to graphically combine Fendi's with mine.
On the loop of the Baguette, we see a superposition mixing the typography of the Tote Bag and that of Fendi Roma.
Then, I created two iconic versions: one glamorous, covered in Tiffany blue crystals, and the other all black, with a minimalist chic.
Then I thought about other colors, a palette of tones that evoke the streets of New York.
Every morning, I cross 12th Avenue, and I observe the workers working in silver, yellow or
Read alsoChopstick bags: 9 models to adopt the trend of the season
You say you are totally fascinated by the story of the Fendi sisters. What inspires you about Silvia Fendi?
Silvia and me, it's a long story.
My paternal grandmother, Helen, an elegant woman, bought all the fashion magazines she let me read throughout my childhood.
The name Fendi kept coming up in the pages – along with that of Karl Lagerfeld, who was associated with it.
One summer, my grandmother and I went on vacation to Capri.
One day, in a chic restaurant, La Canzone del Mare, we met Carla Fendi.
We went with her to the beach, joined by Egon von Fürstenberg.
I was a teenager, and meeting one of the legendary Fendi sisters was an exceptional event.
When Kim called me about this collaboration and introduced me to Silvia, I felt like a virtuous circle was closing.
How did you meet Kim Jones?
We had many friends in common, without having ever met.
Everyone from Kate Moss to Katie Hillier was like, 'Don't you know Kim?
!”
I studied his work, and when I had to choose a designer for menswear at Louis Vuitton, I was sure that Kim would be perfect.
There is something very romantic in this collection
Marc Jacobs
What inspired the architectural looks of your clothes for Fendi?
Initially, I looked back at Kim's creations.
There was in him a quest to glorify work clothes – denim blouses, multi-pocketed trousers.
I wanted to take his concept to the extreme, imbuing the collection with an urban and futuristic allure, through parachute-shaped Baguette bags, faux fur parkas, sweatshirts combined with lace skirts.
I exaggerated the proportions.
There is something very romantic about this collection.
Like the huge cloche hats, which pay homage to my collaborations with Stephen Jones.
A romantic dimension…?
One of my faults is wanting to over-analyze everything.
But there, I abandoned myself to the sensations: I walked in the streets of New York, I immersed myself in the architecture that has rocked me since childhood, I thought back to the Fendi heritage, to the crazy freedom of Karl Lagerfeld and the 1970s. And I started drawing hundreds of sketches.
“My work is an extension of me, and I am an extension of my work”
There
's something Warholian about the way you've made a work of art out of yourself…
My work is an extension of me, and I'm an extension of my work.
I have always studied every detail of my looks, wanted to dress for every occasion.
I proceed by strokes, as a painter would do with his canvas.
I need someone to look at me.
I want to attract attention.
You are revered by Lady Gaga and Rihanna. Which young music stars are changing fashion codes?
Above all, I would cite Billie Eilish and Rosalía, who are transforming the image of women.
They are part of a courageous generation, which is not afraid to show itself in all its guises.
Like Harry Styles and Bad Bunny, which reveal a new way of conceiving masculinity.
Their aesthetic manifestos change the attitudes and codes of the streets.
Read alsoSexy bare back and pearl necklaces: Timothée Chalamet and Harry Styles, transgressors of clothing standards
How important is it to you to be honest, whole and transparent in your creation?
You touch on an essential point.
These are the three qualities to which I aspire.
I would add without complexes.
When I was young, I thought I had to temper my personality, domesticate my tastes.
Hiding is painful.
The most beautiful thing in my life today is to be in harmony with who I am.
Of course, this route is less difficult for someone who, like me, lives in a protected bubble.
In New York, I can go out in high heels and nail polish without being mugged.
I can talk about my therapy or cosmetic surgery.
What I strive to do through fashion is to help others be themselves.
Unique.
He does
In video, Marc Jacobs Fall-Winter 2020-2021 show