A.K.A., Nahalat Binyamin, Tel Aviv (Yaniv Granot)
12:00 noon on Friday, and Nahalat Binyamin Street is still spinning from side to side in its wide, hidden bed, trying to figure out how many hours have passed since the end of last night (too little), how long it will take him to completely reset (too much) and especially what are the chances that this gap, between the little and the more, is now interesting to all the people who are now waiting for him under the house (slim to the point of good morning).
A brunch celebration that you can hardly see in Tel Aviv Breakfast that you no longer see here, in a place where you no longer see
here Few places know how to do night and morning. This brunch is proof
that the Tel Aviv
section - a kind of improvised extension of the famous pedestrian mall whose illegal consequences are sometimes cars, sometimes blocked, always dangerous - galloped with the change until it was crowned
the hottest street in the city, Flies too close to the sun fifteen minutes later into a condescending look from people whose art has been disqualified, and now naturally stands in just the right place for him, and for Friday wanderers at noon from above.
And so, right and natural and Friday and people and sun, brunch came.
Don't stop for a moment. A.K.A. (Photo: Afik Gabay)
Less than a year after the grand opening of AKA 44, David Tor's big project — two floors of a restaurant, cocktail bar and wine bar that both speak the same language and cultivate their own bingo, not to mention private jokes — doesn't stop for a moment, even when he feels the need to make amends.
In this case, it is a change on the fly of the main food figure in the place, which ends with Itai Kushmero (Kandinoff House) placing it in the open kitchen, but also - judging from random observation while intensively storming the dishes - at any other point on the 400 square meters here. This, too, but not only that, is important. Without it, and almost nothing else will matter.
Natural waking
Few places know how to do night and morning. This brunch is proof that it's possible
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Slightly more communicative, though not simplistic. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
The midpoint of markets. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
This is the heart of Nahalat Binyamin, about the middle point between Levinsky Market and Carmel Market, so the justified and necessary aspiration is to take the best of both worlds
The direction, according to early speculation and statements in the process, is to slightly shift this big ship towards slightly more communicative, though not simplistic, food. Something that speaks Hebrew-Israeli, and knows how to send a location to anyone who asks, without getting in trouble and delaying.
On the merits, the heart of Nahalat Binyamin, and about the midpoint there is between Levinsky Market and Carmel Market, with a justified and necessary aspiration to take the best of these two worlds (quince, of course, but also Butcher Shop, for example), and leave aside most of the unnecessary and unnecessary baggage that is usually pushed into the shopping cart during the wander.
Alone with the wings. A.K.A
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It starts with small appetizers, table opening delicacies that beautifully fulfill their task and invite you (cliché but urgently) to order one of each
The initial result of all this verbiage (most of which is mine, Kushmaru can speak with fewer words and more punch) is that long-awaited brunch, "springy, corrupt, meticulous," as he puts it, and also "the most important meal at The Weekend." Punch, as mentioned.
It starts with small appetizers, table opening delicacies that fulfill their task beautifully and invite you (cliché but urgently) to order one of each - a basket of breads with leek jam and "Moroccan butter", roasted leeks with parmesan (38 shekels), a saucer of spicy, home-pressed gravelax with sour cream (32 shekels), roast beef (52 shekels), thick chopped liver with horseradish and pickle (36 shekels) and also an egg salad with lots of fried and crispy onions. It's not easy to go from there, but you have to.
Wake up with the street. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
Desktop necessity. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
These are two slightly misleading words, which themselves are defined on the menu as "tomato carpaccio", a phrase that in turn actually deters the neutral orderer. But don't be fooled or deterred, and certainly don't try to be neutral
A sextet of intermediate dishes echoes nicely and balanced between the two parts of the menu, no longer mezes and not yet "mains". Among them, there is a leafy salad and a "plate of market vegetables", sashimi with the habanero vinaigrette (78 shekels) and "butcher's tartare" on bruschetta that was anointed to royalty with aioli (72 shekels), but mainly a plate of tomatoes.
These are two slightly misleading words, which themselves are defined on the menu as "tomato carpaccio", a phrase that in turn actually deters the neutral orderer. But don't be fooled or deterred, and certainly don't try to be neutral. Nothing good comes out of it, and in the more specific case nothing comes out of the kitchen that is a spring, colorful food festival, all tomatoes, true, but also a "green vinaigrette", and mainly proof of what can be done with joie de vivre.
Booking required. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
This business closes, if you're still clear-headed, with more classic brunch dishes, though that's too restraining a definition of offerings
This business closes, if you're still clear-headed, with more classic brunch dishes, though that's too restraining a definition of offerings. An excellent Benedict based on buttery brioche and spinach (62 shekels), OK, but also a mushroom skewer and a shrimp pan, tagliatelle with calamari and a burger (72 shekels) and a particularly happy exit, to the point of "need more napkins here, and a lot", of fried, meaty, dirty locus wing and the kind that leaves you completely alone, 400 square meters of real estate that are exactly the size of the room you built in your head when booking.
In keeping with the spirit of the place, and the spirit of the commander, everything is washed down here in sweet and original matters of alcohol, from Italian Ice Tea (Campari, Aperol, Vermouth Coffee, Cucumber, Angostura, Lemon, Soda) to French Spritz (vermouth amber, tonic, Prosecco, Oregano and orange slice) from Four Seasons (fermented seasonal fruit liqueur, gin verbena, slow gin, lime, tonic) to Jungle Bird (white rum, Jamaican rum, Campari, pineapple, lime) - tall, deep-flavored glasses that start with you Good morning, And finish only when the whole day aligns with the promise.
Don't wait for the evening. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
When the nap hands you a bill. A.K.A. (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
By the time you finish here – and given that brunch doesn't open until noon, you won't finish before the nap hands you a bill – Nachalat Binyamin Street has already drunk its third coffee of the morning, overcome the hangover and go down to rearrange the pedestrian mall.
When the sun goes down again, his big party will get underway again, nonetheless "complex" and "hot," but you already know better not to wait for it. On this ship she starts early.
A.K.A., Nachalat Binyamin 12, Tel Aviv, 00-44 or 054-5448544
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