Quite a symbol. To present its Cruise 2024 collection, Gucci has taken over a place that has been completely new until now: the Gyeongbokgung Palace, a majestic Royal Palace, located north of Seoul, the South Korean capital. Never before had such an event been held in the grounds of this gigantic and spectacular historical monument – the largest and most visited in the city – built in the fourteenth century, in 1394, during the reign of the Josean dynasty. It is a city within a city, architectural marvel with its many wooden palace-pagodas painted with double roofs, which have been destroyed several times and then rebuilt in history. And in front of the building: a skyline of futuristic skyscrapers, which contrasts with the historic site and tells at a glance the meteoric evolution of Seoul, a megalopolis with 10 million inhabitants.
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In video, the Royal Palace of Seoul, majestic theater of the Gucci Cruise 2024 parade
The soft power of fashion
Parading in this former high place of Korean power is all the more symbolic as South Korea today shines around the world thanks to its soft power that makes this nation the epicenter of contemporary pop culture. Nowadays K-culture (K-pop, K-drama, K-beauty...) continues to influence the world. For example, Netflix announced a $2.3 billion investment in Korean-language content. "South Korea represents the cultural zeitgeist of the moment," said Ted Sarandos, co-CEO of the platform. It has also become one of the most strategic markets for all luxury brands: twenty-five years after the opening of its first boutique in Seoul, Gucci wanted to celebrate its link with Korea by making an impression.
If it was able to take up the feat of parading in the enclosure of the "Palace greatly blessed by heaven", as the Koreans call it, it is because the house of the Kering group invests, over the next three years, in the restoration and preservation of the site for an amount kept secret. A way for Gucci to associate itself more closely and symbolically with Korea. Another form of soft power in short. "Beauty is a constant source of inspiration for Gucci, but it also requires constant care and attention. We are delighted to confirm our commitment to Korean cultural heritage and to honour it through this fashion show," said Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO of Gucci.
GUCCI CRUISE 2024 COLLECTION. Gucci
"Our history with Korea began 25 years ago with the opening of our first store in Seoul, and has grown over time, strengthening our relationships with local communities. Gyeongbok Palace is one of those wonders of the world that made us feel an instant connection with Korean culture and the people who created it. Florence and Seoul, Italy and Korea, so far down the map but so close in creating wonder. That's why we're honored to present our Gucci Cruise 2024 collection here: celebrating the past, as inspiration for the future."
A collection inspired by Korean youth
The collection of this 2024 cruise takes up this idea of the link between past and future, old and contemporary, traditional and modern. In front of the pavilion of the throne room, Geunjeongjeon, totally illuminated for the occasion, and facing the skyscrapers of the city, eras and styles dialogue, clash, mix. The dressing room evokes the street look of the young Korean in baggy pants and three-striped top crop or in a more bourgeois version in split midi waist skirt sported with a corset with detachable bomber sleeves. Otgoreum knots using the codes of hanbok, the traditional Korean costume, come to bar the bust on evening dresses in red silk or pink satin coat.
GUCCI CRUISE 2024 COLLECTION. Gucci
All Italian know-how is expressed in the art of hybridization with this bomber jacket redesigned into an evening long skirt, this white satin coat that turns into a dress dress by detaching the sleeves. Boys and girls parade surfing under the arm or in a skateboard/tablet bag in hand. This collection is dedicated to active people (in every sense of the word) and is inspired by many codes of the sports wardrobe to imprint the idea of movement, of a world that advances. That of South Korea. Inspired by the lifestyle of Seoulites, who from sunny days practice water sports on the Han River, the collection ennobles neoprene on ultrachic long dresses, simple turtlenecks worn with more sophisticated skirts or with diving shoes redesigned in mules. A pink silk dress dresses a diving suit. There are also cycling shorts worn with tweed jackets or suits. The ensemble reflects the mix of styles that can be observed in Seoul.
GUCCI CRUISE 2024 COLLECTION. Gucci
Waiting for the new DA of the Florentine house
The design studio of the Florentine house signs this collection. A cruise more minimalist than usual, more sober too. As if, in this transition period for Gucci, after the flamboyant era of Alessandro Michele (who left the house in November 2022), it was necessary to adopt a more balanced attitude, to offer more accessible pieces. We can see a new direction initiated, wanted by Kering, far from the extravagance embodied by Michele. Sign of this break: several silhouettes of the show celebrate the Tom Ford era of the 90s, from the jewel dress, to high heels, through monochrome ensembles, and silk and satin shirts or dresses. It is still too early to know that it will be the direction taken by Gucci, the new DA of the house, Sabato de Sarno, is currently working on his first collection – and his vision – which he will unveil next September, in Milan, for ready-to-wear.
Some 600 guests made the trip to attend this show, whose soundtrack was signed Jung Jae-il, composer of the soundtrack of Parasite, the first Korean film to have received an Oscar. Among them, international actresses such as Dakota Johnson, Jodie Turner Smith, Saoirse Ronan and Elisabeth Olsen. But the real stars in their kingdom? It was indeed Korean celebrities, including actor Lee Jung-Jae seen in the series Squid Game or K-Pop stars such as Aespa, Itzy or Gucci ambassador, singer Hanni, of the K-pop girlband NewJeans, whose title Ditto has been listened to more than 300 million times on Spotify.
Dakota Johnson Han Myung-Gu
But in South Korea, the presence of these stars does not trigger any frenzy as can be seen in Paris during Fashion Week. Only a few dozen fans waited, obediently, placidly, silently, at the entrance of the show, to try to see through the smoked windows their favorite artists. It was then the American rapper A$AP Rocky who gave a private concert at the after-party.