Opening a fascinating hatch. Dalton Winery (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Dalton is one of the oldest wineries in the local industry. Its roots may not be as rooted in the last century as Carmel, but since our wine industry was re-established as progressive and modern, Dalton has been one of its cornerstones.
To all Avi Efrati's
wine columns The large winery (almost a million and a half bottles a year) was founded in 1995 by Matti Haroni and his son Alex, who took the reins in recent years. Since 2016, the winemaker of the winery is Guy Eshel.
Dalton is known as a winery with elegant, high-quality wines that carry stylistically into the new world of wine, but in recent years, as in any large, industrialized winery that also possesses a measure of soul and character, other things have been happening there.
The current review reveals his less obvious wines, the ones that, if blindly tasted, are hard to guess originated from Dalton. These are wines with a higher coefficient of uniqueness and obviously a lower coefficient of commerciality.
Dalton, as a successful winery that sells a lot in Israel and abroad, can also afford to release a few buttons on the well-tailored suit and offer wines that have a Free Style promoter. They reveal, of course, Eshel's great talent and versatility as a winemaker, as well as dimensions of his personal preferences, most of them endearing. The wines mostly belong to the "Asopa" series and were produced in a relatively limited edition. They open a completely fascinating window into Dalton "you don't know." It's worth getting acquainted. Cheers!
Dalton, Asopa, Semyon Tic Toc 2019
A delightful hint of salinity. Dalton, Asopa, Semyon Tic Toc 2019 (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible: 100% Semyon from the Alkosh vineyard in the Upper Galilee. Fermentation and aging of 5 months in stainless steel containers on the yeast deposits. No barrel. Light golden color. Mineral nose. Light-medium body. 11% alcohol by volume.
How much?85 NIS.
Best for: fish, seafood, Asian food.
Reviewer's note: Very sharp, precise, very mineral, understated, with a delightful hint of salinity. What more would we ask for wine at its price? Really not much.
Value for money:4/5 (very good).
In three words:Semyon ages at his best.
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Dalton, Asopa, Wild One Chenin Blanc 2020
Sourness balances sharply. Dalton, Asopa, Wild One Shenin Blanc 2020 (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible: 100% Chenin Blanc from the Natur vineyard in the southern Golan Heights. Half of the wine was squeezed in whole clusters and half separated from the weaves and soaked briefly on the skins. Fermentation was carried out in stainless steel and old oak barrels. 5 months stay on the yeast deposits. Golden color. In the nose honeys, white and yellow fruit. Medium body. 12% alcohol by volume.
How much?85 NIS.
Best for: fish, seafood, white meats.
Reviewer's note:Good fruit not too busy, sharp balancing sourness, some crunch, some oiliness. Beauty of wine.
Value for money:4/5 (very good).
In four words:white dry gastronomic and proper.
Dalton, Pat Nut 2022
Plenty of delicate fruit. Dalton, Pat Nutt 2022(Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible:natural bubbling based on Semyon from the Alkosh vineyard and nutmeg from the Kidron vineyard. Natural fermentation in stainless steel that ends in a bottle. Yeast filtration before transferring to bottle. Golden color. In the nose aromatic, floral and abundant delicate fruit. Lightweight body. 11.5% alcohol by volume.
How much?85 NIS.
Best for: Starters based on fish, seafood and even beef tartare. Picnic.
Reviewer's note: light, with relatively mild bubbling, incisive sourness and lovely dryness. Pat Nutt is commonly referred to as bubbly, playful and a little cheeky. Here, it seems, there is more than that - a degree of complexity and quite a bit of nuance.
Value for money:3.5/5 (good).
In seven words: Pat Nutt with a degree of welcome complexity.
Dalton, Asopa, Coast to Coast Zinfandel 2020
Spritzes seasoned in the corners. Dalton, Asopa, Coast to Coast Zinfandel 2020 (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible: 85% Zinfandel, 10% Shiraz and 5% Petite Syrah from the Safsufa vineyard in the Upper Galilee. No watering during the season. Several months of aging in old oak barrels. Very dark red color. In the nose red fruit and spices. Medium-full body. 15% alcohol by volume.
How much?95 NIS.
Best for: Carpaccio and beef tartare. Roast beef.
Reviewer's note: Pronounced fruitiness, balancing sourness, considerable roundness with few sprinkles seasoned in the corners, the fruit of the presence of Mediterranean varieties. Friendly and pleasant, absolutely extroverted. The most accessible of the "Asopa" series wines.
Value for money:3/5 (not bad).
In seven words: the most accessible of the red "Asopa" wines in the current tasting.
Dalton, Asopa, Majestic 2021
A measure of minutes. Dalton, Asopa, Majestic 2021 (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency, it is impossible: 100% Carignan from a 40-year-old vineyard at the foot of the Tavor, in the Lower Galilee, which underwent a rehabilitation process two years ago. Fermentation in concrete tanks, mixing with a rod. Half of the wine will ferment after the separation of interlaces and half in whole clusters. 10 months of aging in old French oak barrels. Red color slightly oval. In the nose red fruit and spices. Light-medium body. 13% alcohol by volume.
How much?95 NIS.
Best for: steaks.
Reviewer's note:Carignan is particularly successful, with a measure of minutes, elegant fruit, velvety what, precise balancing acid, very present seasoning and a great gastronomic coefficient.
Value for money:4.5/5 (excellent).
In six words: one of the best meat wines in the "excess of a hundred" category.
Dalton, Asopa, Grewanded 2021
Very collected fruit. Dalton, Asopa, Grewanded 2021 (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency it is impossible: 100% black Zuriman from the Evyatar vineyard in the Upper Galilee. 8 months of obsolescence in pottery jars. Oval color. Spicy, herbaceous nose with considerable minerality. Light-medium body. 12.5% alcohol by volume.
How much?95 NIS.
Best for: Hard cheeses and ripe cheeses.
Reviewer's note: The black Zuriman variety has been identified by researchers as an ancient local variety that was used to make tiroche and dibs (grape honey). The grapes for the current wine were taken from a tiny vineyard that Dalton planted, which is used to grow Zuriman. The wine itself is relatively light, with great fruit but very collected, not extroverted, spicy, earthy and herbaceous. Wonderful wine for a snacking evening, even to accompany quality chocolate. But also relevant to any meat dish.
Value for money:3.5/5 (good).
In seven words: easy, fun, unique in taste and also revives heritage.
Dalton, Galilo 2018
Rich in expression. Dalton, Galilee 2018 (Photo: Dalton Winery)
Without a few words about astringency, it is impossible: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Shiraz, both from the Alkosh vineyard in the Upper Galilee and 10% Grenache Noir from the Ibn Menachem vineyard in the Upper Galilee. Aging separately in French oak barrels, a third of which are new, about 12 months. Another 8-month statute of limitations as a blend. Very deep red color. In the nose are red and black fruit, dark chocolate, tobacco and cinnamon. Full body. 14.5% alcohol by volume.
How much?275 NIS.
Best for: Invested meat dishes.
From the reviewer: deep, complex, soft, expressive, nuanced, round but not flattering, a flagship wine that expresses terroir in its fine expression.
In six words: a very expensive and successful flagship wine of its kind.
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