Primo, Holon (Yaniv Granot)
How big can food reporter tragedies be? When exactly is it okay to complain about a terrible day at work? What kind of distress that doesn't let you go home, go to bed with it and wake up again in the morning?
Try complaining, for example, about "too many cheesecakes that arrived in too little time for weeks", about a brunch attack that doesn't allow you a balanced weekend morning, about huge but nearby food events that crowd your hunger into minimalist and invisible clusters? Seriously, who will listen to you when you want empathy?
Therefore, it is better to remain silent. Contain. Channel in. Repress. No one cares about your food tragedies. And that's okay, logical even. Go tell them, for example, about that time you forgot like an idiot half a perfect pizza at Primo's bar, and how sad it is.
Hand games. Primo
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Silo's new food bar opens in the Next Door format to the successful mother restaurant. Between the two entrances is a well-paved plaza (after all, Park Peres in Holon, a city that knows how to sequence and knows spaces) and a panoramic funnel on almost all the attractions in the complex.
To call it the Vegas of the Central Region would be an exaggeration, and would somehow sin both cities at the same time. But there is still an almost comical mix of uses here - a pedal boat pool that looks from the side like a parental stretch next to a basketball hall with an understanding audience, a fenced area for barbecues that is clearly not supervised in terms of the permissible decibel level, and parking as far as the eye can see and perceive, especially if that eye comes from Tel Aviv's blue-and-white nightmares. Again, not Vegas, but maybe someone with sensory regulation will come and give advice?
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Booking requirement, come on. Primo (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
Street food restaurant. Primo (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
We won't get ahead of the late, but good things should be said straight, and not kept in your stomach. Apart from the good stuff of the veteran chef, which is very worth leading to the stomach
And now, so does Primo, a collaboration between Bernardo Blachowitz and Benzi Arbel, who succeeded in entrusting the kitchen to Ofir Videvsky. We won't get ahead of the late, but good things should be said straight, and not kept in your stomach. Except for the good stuff of the veteran chef, which is very worth leading to the stomach.
The intention here, stated but also designed (by Shani Ring), is to make an "adult place" without bothering them with children's stuff. That is, people who really don't want to get in the car and drive to Tel Aviv now, but have also found themselves here and there in recent years at too family tables in a silo, say.
Here, accordingly, they will get a large and dominant bar experience, an open kitchen full of energy, enough seating options to respond to the situation, and especially a food and cocktail menu that takes into account each of these.
FOMO-rich menu. Primo (Photo: Amir Menachem)
It starts with the well-known focaccia dance - you don't invite her because you don't want to fill up at the beginning and then see the tabun and also see her go out to other tables that are less level-headed than you and therefore smarter and then regret and embarrassment, waiting and admitting the truth that she is a hot carbohydrate, always - and a set of innocent saucers only literally, in the form of colorful and plump Sicilian olives, and salty ricotta with pistachios.
The next part is overlarge, and just as cohesive. You want burrata, and you want artichoke and asparagus with pecorino cream and you want panzanella, you certainly want to, and in the end you give up everything on the pretext of "next time for sure", but not the polenta fingers (NIS 39), a satisfying yellowish crisp, with Gorgonzola Deep of course, and certainly not on fried friti ravioli as well, a street snack elsewhere, and a hot and cheesy must-have dish here.
Yellowish crispness. Primo (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
Spring on a platter. Primo (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
On. The pastas continue to increase the dilemma - buttery tagliatelle with asparagus (69 shekels), for example, or veal pappardelle ragu (79 shekels), risotto cacio a pepe (69 shekels) or ricotta tartufo anilotti with sage butter (69 shekels).
Pastas, you say. No need to delay. But Videvsky is juggling right in front of you, a servis animal as defined by his managers, and someone who has seen one or two (or twenty) kitchens in his life, cooked in places where others flew to eat and opened restaurants and kitchens, only to smile among the sizzling stoves in Pars Peres in Holon, and to bring out one deep plate after another, with flavors and logic, talent and hand. And delicious, how delicious.
Stunning fork stroke. Primo (Photo: Amir Menachem)
This is the satiety stage, and half the menu has not even been reviewed yet
Juggling kitchens. Videvsky (Photo: Amir Menachem)
This is the satiety phase, and half a menu has not even been reviewed yet. Elaborate meat matters of tartar and fillet skewer with green garlic cream, grilled entrecote and roasted chicken livers on bruschetta. And fish also. Crudo moser yam and ceviche with blood orange and almonds, shrimp with lemon-butter and calamari with salsa verde.
You look at all this, do calculations and wonder, and decide to go in the end anyway, and in the process Pomo builds on two dishes that looked at you from the page from the moment you sat down, and did not give up. A "chard candy" (NIS 54) is a large green leaf stuffed with a cheesy-creamy mixture of ricotta-parmesan-pecorino, which passes through the oven long enough for everything to melt together into a stunning fork stroke.
Next to it, a special "pizzetta limone" (bechamel, artichoke, parmesan, 55 shekels) was also chosen, and no doughy versions with burrata or salami were chosen, among other things. When the tray arrived, revealing apple and brown dough edges and a bubbling spring core, we knew we had made the right choice.
Thick and airy at the same time. Primo's boudino (Photo: Amir Menachem)
Sweet, bitter, excellent. Primo's pistachio brulee (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
Finally, there is a "Neapolitan profiterol" and chocolate mousse, a bittersweet pistachio crème brulee (NIS 55) and a counter on which warm tarts are placed, waiting to be cut. There's also a lighter classic of strawberries and mascarpone (NIS 42) and a great departure of boudino (NIS 42), a kind of Italian flan that is both airy and thick, texture-precise and even more precise in terms of sweetness.
All this goodness and deliciousness mixes with a fun cocktail menu, the kind that doesn't want to take over the space and is very good for sitting next to you throughout the evening, without faces and without matters, and with an impressive wine room that will pour you glasses and bottles that are equally excellent. A place for adults, with the joie de vivre of children (and if you come across a forgotten pizza carton there, you will know that it is not a tragedy of anyone, except me).
Primo, Sderot Yerushalayim 216, Park Peres, Holon, 03-5565955
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Tags
- Holon
- Italian food
