110,000 tons. That's the amount of olive oil consumed each year in France, reports 60 million consumers magazine. Rich in essential fatty acids, this green gold is indeed a health asset, associated with a decrease in the risk of cardiovascular disease and "bad" cholesterol. And when it comes to obtaining a bottle worthy of the name in mass distribution, amateurs usually turn to "extra virgin" references that guarantee a low acidity level of the product and better taste qualities, thanks to a meticulous pressing of the olives, cold and without chemicals. But the reality falls far short of these expectations. This is what the magazine 60 million consumers deplores in its June edition (1). After analyzing 24 "extra virgin" olive oils, including 11 organic labels, the magazine found several compositional defects that alter the taste and potentially impact the body.
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Rancid and musty flavours
The first observation is clear: of the 24 references of "extra virgin" olive oils analyzed, half should not bear the mention, according to the magazine. Indeed, if their composition in fatty acids and sterols (plant lipids) complies with the specifications of this category, the expected taste and olfactory quality is not at the rendezvous. In total, this half of the panel was downgraded to "virgin" oil instead of "extra virgin" by the jury of 60 million consumers, due to rancid flavors, earth, humidity, even musty.
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According to our colleagues, these odors can be related to insufficient washing of olives or the development of mold on olives stored in a humid environment. Among the references pinned, we find those of Auchan Pouce, Puget Bio or Bouton d'or.
Presence of plasticizers and traces of hydrocarbons
While no addition of other oil or ingredients denaturing the composition was detected in the olive oils tested, 60 million consumers noticed traces of contaminants. Plasticizers, specifically phthalates, were found in 23 of the 24 references analyzed. Some of these molecules are classified as endocrine disruptors and reprotoxic (which can alter fertility). "It is difficult to know the origin of the contamination: tanks, tarpaulins, pipes used during storage or transport.... In any case, the regulations prohibit the use of materials containing phthalates in the production and storage chain of fatty substances such as olive oil, "reports the media of the National Institute of Consumption.
60 million consumers also draws attention to five olive oils, such as those from Aldi or Bio Village, containing traces of mineral oil hydrocarbons. These chemical derivatives are particularly known for their carcinogenic and genotoxic properties. How to explain this presence? Here too, it is difficult to be certain of the origin of the contamination. "There are them everywhere," admits Franck Dejean, head of the Analysis & Expertise department of the Institute of Fats and Related Products, with 60 million consumers. Olives can be contaminated during harvest via diesel engines and lubricants from agricultural machinery, during storage with tarpaulins (...), not to mention environmental pollution."
Good news, however, the only bottle of this test bench to boast of being the "cleanest" has a reasonable price of € 6.99 and is found at Lidl under the reference "Primadonna".
(1) The full survey can be found in the magazine 60 million consumers, currently on newsstands.
