Both of the driver's hands cling to the steering wheel. The 4x4 seems to walk aimlessly, about to cross the edges of the road, but finally it ends up accommodating, facing one of the most colorful postcards of the party of Coronel Suárez.
Only then does the roar of the engine go out and the excursion to the jumps gives way to a stretch of trekking. At the final point of the ascending walk, the calm atmosphere invites visitors to contemplate the long silhouette of the Pillahuincó mountain range, while from all four sides the aromas and sounds of nature emerge.
Opposite, the wall of no more than 700 meters high perched at the bottom of the horizon emerges between the mists to extend towards the turquoise sky the green vastness of one of the valleys protected by the chain of hills of Ventania.
Lavender fields in front of the Pillahuincó mountain range.
The observation point chosen by the guide Juanjo Navarro reveals a unique attraction: it is the Mirador de las Lavandas, which stands in the highest sector of a quarry of lithic material, one of the archaeological sites that preserve the pre-Columbian history of the hunters and gatherers who inhabited this region of the southwest of the province of Buenos Aires.
Shades
The sacred land of the original Pampas had begun to take shape as soon as it was altered, once the all-terrain vehicle hammocked to cross a stream and the path became a steep footprint.
Excursion in 4x4 to the Mirador de las Lavamdas, near Sierra de la Ventana.
Already in the domains of the estancia El Pantanoso, on the other side of each crossing of gate are observed the different shades of the organic universe created by the producer Leony Staudt and her husband Bertrand Laxague.
A plot delineated for barley cultivation is followed by a field of sage.
Further on, symmetrical strips are observed, where lemon balm, hyssop, lemon verbena, French tarragon and thyme shoots grow, until the violet mantle of lavender opens before the eyes, a replica of the most famous fruit of the Provence region (in the south of France), which the mountain climate holds for its local producers and tourists.
From Europe
The first varieties of organic lavender angustifolia were brought from Europe to the Andean Patagonian Nursery of Bariloche, before landing -at the end of the 80s- in the mountain range of Pillahuincó, the cornerstone of the auspicious future that Leony envisioned.
The field of aromatic herbs of the estancia El Pantanoso began to flourish in the late '80s.
In that initial stage, the Staudt family (descendant of the German pioneer Ricardo Staudt, arrived in the country from Berlin, in 1860, to dedicate himself to the export of leather and wool of merino sheep) bet heavily on the flowering season of lavender -from November to early January-, as a key moment for its commercialization.
That time of experimentation is behind us and now lavender and the entire chain of aromatic herbs constitute a tourist attraction that does not quiet throughout the year.
The panoramic view of the field tinged with an intense violet blue hue fills the view and its strong perfume slows down the steps through the furrows of the plantations, a kind invitation to touch, rub your hands and vacuum again and again.
Lavender harvesting in the fields of Leony Staudt and Bertrand Laxague, in the mountain area near Coronel Suárez.
The dehydrated lavender flower is sold by kilogram or in bags of 10 kilos or is also offered in the form of insomnia pads, pillows filled with lavender, herbs and seeds, bouquets of lavender and honey, sedatives and other presentations that retain their relaxing, antiseptic, healing and antidepressant properties.
Around, where the hills are enlarged and the scenarios of millenary legends are outlined, the spirit of pre-Hispanic cultures revives in the mountains and in the fresh and crystalline waters that approach the Pillahuincó stream and the Sauce Grande river.
Lavender plantation in front of the hills of the Pillahuincó cord, in the southwest of the province of Buenos Aires.
Pillán, the great mountain god of the Pampas tribes guards that perfect postcard, to leave the doors open to those who come with eagerness to admire the landscape and leave their creative contribution, stripped of any idea of conquering this unique region.
Mini-guide
How to get there. From the city of Buenos Aires to Coronel Suárez are 550 kilometers by Riccheri, Highway to Cañuelas, route 3 to Azul, route 226 to Olavarría and routes 51, 76 and 85.
Executive bed bus Condor Estrella or Plusmar from Retiro to Coronel Suárez (8 hs.), $ 13,200 one way.
Train from Retiro to Coronel Suárez (Tuesday and Friday at 13; takes 14 hs. 40'), $ 2,680 one way in Primera, $ 3,215 in Pullman and $ 9,400 cabin for two passengers; from 3 to 12 years, 50%; retirees and pensioners, 60%.
Where to stay. Gran Hotel Coronel Suárez: double room with breakfast, garage, wi-fi and cable TV, $ 9,500; triple, $ 12,500 (02926- 421-095/98/99 / suarezgranhotel@gmail.com / www.suarezgranhotel.com.ar).
RR Apart Hotel: double room with breakfast, cable TV and wi-fi, $ 10,000; apart for two people, $ 11,000; apart or house for 5, $ 19,000; garage, $ 1,000 (02926- 500-331 / rraparthotel.cnelsuarez@gmail.com / www.rraparthotel.com.ar).
Where to find out. (02926) 421-048 / (02926) 15516015 / dirturismomcs@gmail.com / www.coronelsuarez.tur.ar
See also
