Paris Texas, Tel Aviv (Yaniv Granot)
"I haven't cooked in a long time, because I have an amazing team here and people who know the job better than I do. But the idea started running through my head, and from there I couldn't stop it."
Walla's Multiple WhatsApp Groups! An impossible magnetic field to contain in routine, which overwhelms everything that happens everywhere, without much filtering between the Pentagon and the building committee meeting - was stormed about a week and a half ago precisely because of a birthday party for cute kindergarten children, which gathered in Givatayim Park.
All the "eaters go" columns
didn't have anything criminal there, God forbid (though the lone picture I managed to squeeze out of there was strictly criminal). There were no headlines either (unless you think, as I do, that it was probably the most attractive birthday party in the birthday party history of Givatayim Park, a place that knows a thing or a million about garden-garden-community-mat events made of material on which you are not supposed to sit).
Not. It was a different kind of scandal, in the form of an unconventional refreshment table, where only insiders knew what was waiting for it, and how much it was worth it this time to be the parent who did attend the event. Hell, even I wanted to come, uninvited and with no real connection to those around me, not to mention the zero presence I had shown at hundreds of similar events, which had little more to do with what was happening to me.
And all, because of this picture:
Scandal in the park. Paris Texas birthday party (Photo courtesy)
A few days after that party and that spectacular burger table, I show up at the new Paris Texas branch in Tel Aviv. The location is tricky - one meter from Rothschild Boulevard, two meters from Nahalat Binyamin, and exactly on the street plot that has trapped many food options over the years - the sign is still waiting for final approval from the municipality, which burdens its business in Israel, but everything else is already there.
And everything else is not "rest", but the most "everything" there is here - a refrigerator with cuts of meat that is both a shop window for the street and a shop window for a business, and burgers that verbally complicate food editors, because they can't stand the word "that", but sometimes it's the right word, and the only one.
Joy of life, and Dill
The happy kebab returned to the Carmel Market, bringing with it friends for reinforcements
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Everything else, most "everything". Paris, Texas
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The menu is similar, one to one, to the parent branch in Ramat Gan and to the younger and slightly more partyy branch in Givatayim - conventional beginnings of three types of wings, dirty fries loaded with toppings, mozzarella sticks and onion rings, a pair of meatier but smaller appetizers (130-150 grams) by virtue of their location (steak and fries or "butcher's salad"), about a dozen built-in burger options and many, many more game options, from a global cheese menu to game-ginger sauces, From "sirloin blanket" to ragu and buttered mushrooms.
It's one very neat page of food options, not the Magna Carta. And yet you begin to calculate in your head capacities and anchors, what is safe and what maybe, how to start and where to turn, and especially what you planned to do afterwards, because you should cancel from now on, and surrender.
A meal in itself. Paris Texas Butcher's Salad (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
Ideal stretch. Paris Texas mozzarella sticks (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
The onion rings (29 shekels for 4 formidable units, crispy in their batter and sweet in their bite) and mozzarella sticks (44 shekels for a quartet of sticks that could function as standard baseball bats when needed, with a brown crust and a stretchy face) provided the deep fat crave instantly, pushing out of your head any unruly thoughts of restraint, and making it clear where you have come, and especially where you are going.
Next to them came the same butcher's salad (64 shekels) - lettuce, parsley, celery leaves, basil, mint, green onions, radish, kohlrabi, red onions that were mixed well with a delicate mustard vinaigrette, and absorbed from above an excellent piece of meat, moderate in size and thinly sliced, into a flowing fork-mouth movement, and another, and another. So far, a real meal, relatively balanced and very tasty, satisfying and corrupting. Hence, the meal really.
Meat as meat. Paris Texas' ketogenic dish (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
It's a perfect burger dessert, which somehow stabilizes with all these powerful flavor agents at just the right spot on the tongue, and laughs
The crazy possibilities of Paris Texas take you wherever you want, and beyond, with combinations of Saint Maur and jalapeno jam, lamb bacon and problone, spinach and wine bifburger with egg eye, campfire bifburger with potato and sour cream, and also a rather mythical Ultimate Burger, with corned beef and Jack Daniels sauce.
The last outing - "La Mona Lisa", 74 shekels - which began in weeks and rightly remained, does just that, and more. 220g patty in a soft bun, with mayonnaise and mustard, arugula, onions, jalapeno, walnuts, cranberries, gorgonzola cheese and apple jam. A perfect burger dessert, which somehow stabilizes with all these powerful flavor agents at just the right spot on the tongue, and laughs.
Above all. Paris, Texas (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
A work of art. The Mona Lisa of Paris Texas (Photo: Walla!, Yaniv Granot)
There are many good burgers in Tel Aviv, and quite a few excellent ones, and there is this. Most
These are all their dignity in place, but there is something about the base point that sets the bar. Here it comes in a ketogenic form (42 shekels), which is a patty on arugula leaves and a little confit garlic on top. Meat as meat, without masks and without three-piece suits, proving that he doesn't dress for these parties to hide something. On the contrary, they come to him, and to him.
We finished with Smashburger (two 120-gram patties flattened on the plancha, with chipotle aioli, triple cheddar and "umami onion", 58 shekels), a tower you begin to climb hesitantly, quickly realizes the ideal fusion created here between main and toppings, gets a complete and comprehensive piece, clear and understandable, and leaves nothing out of your hand, until one of the staff members implores you assertively to take the outstretched wipe. There are many good burgers in Tel Aviv, and quite a few excellent ones, and there is this. Most.
Perfection in the palm of your hand. Paris, Texas
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This business is sophisticated and engineered and expertised by some of the best food people we have. It's the meat, of course, and its care, but also three different handmade butters, and a double-digit number of home-made sauces begging for an assembly line, or at least a chilled barrel parked outside the house.
Both of these, together with the basis of our being which is burger and fries, cold beer and pricing that stings Tel Aviv from below, close a line of extremely happy parties. Not a birthday in Givatayim Park probably, but as close as it gets.
Paris Texas, Herzl 4, Tel Aviv
- food
- Food reviews
Tags
- Street food
- hamburger
- Steak
