I didn't know about the option at all. Kebab at the rhino (Photo: David Rosenthal)
Everyone gets surprising tasks here and there. One of these landed on me about two weeks ago, when the editor of the section appeared and asked: "Why don't you go to 'Rhino'?"
To all the columns of "Rosie the Taster,"
it was a surprising request. Rhino went off my radar about 12 years ago, maybe a little longer. This is a place that is less than 30 meters in a direct line from Beit Walla!, and I still haven't thought about entering it for more than a decade. What caused the unilateral disengagement? Above all, I remember resenting the fact that they take 28 shekels on a tortilla.
Do you get it? I cried for 28 shekels. It's really been a long time.
The reason for the comeback, as Mr. Granot, or "Mr. Editor," explained, is that the rhino in his eyes is a kind of mystery. As befits its location in one of the most expensive urban real estate spots in the country, the prices are not cheap, it is almost never crowded and still - it manages to survive.
This was the place that in the past Tel Avivians pointed out to be a pilgrimage station for random passersby, usually not residents of the city. Today? He is already cemented as a very local, has weathered the tough Corona period well, stands with dignity even in the light rail works, rode the Wolt wave and stayed on it. Now it remains only to check: is this really a logical success?
Survived for many years. Is there a reason? A rhino in Ibn Gvirol (Photo: David Rosenthal)
I used to think I wouldn't get used to the reality of paying for fried onions, but we're in an age where every inhalation of air on a flight costs money, so what about us because we'll be nalin?
Memory is deceptive. Back then, more than ten years ago, the rhino had a few options in a small, unrewarding tortilla. I looked at the menu and was amazed: suddenly there are countless varieties here, from kebabs to hamburgers, buns and not just tortillas, from schnitzel to omelets, and there is also a vegan menu. When it comes to a large selection of dishes, inflation is not a bad thing.
Well, I quit saying - it's right below work and the menu here has grown dramatically - I'll take something today and come back tomorrow too. On the first day, I chose a kebab roll (45 shekels) with added meat (16 shekels) and fried onions (2 shekels) - a total of 63 shekels. I used to think I wouldn't get used to the reality of paying for fried onions, but we're in an age where every inhalation of air on a flight costs money, so what about us because we'll be nalin?
The meat is of reasonable quality plus, the dish is appetizing and overall I was filled. The downside here is the insane amount of oil. It's true that shawarma also has a lot of oil, but here it's almost uncontrollable. Bring wet wipes in advance, just in case.
Dumb decision, but totally worth it
The first bite snapped. A score of 9 worth getting out of the way
See full article >
60 NIS for it? Sirisli? The entrecote roll (Photo: David Rosenthal)
The second day has arrived, and as I promised - I am following another dish. This time I went for the entrecote roll, and here too my biggest concern was the tortilla. Roll is basically a euphemism for "pay for a lafa, you'll get half the amount." Have I already said that memory is a deceptive business? I got a nice big portion, the lafa-sized tortilla, one to one, only thinner than that, which isn't necessarily bad.
I took a double portion of meat (45 NIS for a regular dish, 60 NIS for the one I ordered). Was it delicious? Yes, to an extent. In my opinion a little less successful and more salty than the kebab, but overall passing. Entrecote often tends to be viscous, which is especially problematic in tortilla, here it was very good and fit well. Problem? My treacherous memory suddenly became accurate again—I got a small roll, just like the one seared into my mind, that ended in less than ten bites. 60 NIS for this thing? In the spirit of the famous and loathsome slogan, it should be said - every day there is a cost of living here, but today, voila, you have exaggerated.
So C.M.A. came out?
What distanced me from "Rhino" in the first place was the value for the price, and in the quantity-price-quality index, price is of the highest importance. In the kebab sector (1 shekels, remember) it was still fine - a bit too high, but you can push the limits. The entrecote is already bordering on crime, 10 shekels for a dish that left me hungrier than I was and smaller than the average pita of shawarma? The world has gone completely crazy.
The food itself ranges from reasonable to good. Not excellent, but definitely worthy. He is also the one who saves the score for the rhino, which stands at 63, because without the taste it would have ranged somewhere between 60 and 6. Still, this place exists, with quite a bit of traffic of people and increased turnover of Volt messengers.
What do we say? Suckers don't die, they indulge.
Rhino, Ibn Gvirol 164, Tel Aviv
- Food reviews
- Rosie the Taster