More than a blank page, Gucci opens a red page, indeed, 'Rosso Ancora', the color chosen by Sabato De Sarno as the starting point for his first fashion show as creative director of the maison. A collection, the one seen on the catwalk today, which draws a line on the era signed by the visionary Alessandro Michele, exactly as a few days ago the Instagram account of the maison had been reset.
Everything had to start from a new place, from the streets of Brera, chosen by De Sarno himself - long at work at Valentino's as Pierpaolo Piccioli's right-hand man, today in the front row cheering for his friend - but then the threat of rain convinced the maison to move the show to the last in the headquarters in via Mecenate, which has hosted almost all the latest fashion shows. Obviously red lights illuminate the room, stars like Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling in the front row, together with François-Henri Pinault, president and CEO of the Kering group, for whom "work is judged in duration", and friends like Marco De Vincenzo as supporters, and off to the De Sarno era.
And already from the first release it was clear that the music - in this case orchestrated by Mark Ronson - has changed: white tank top, short black shorts, belt with double G, gold coat and chain, moccasins with the plateau and the new Jackie in the foreground. "My first collection is a map - writes De Sarno on Instagram - it is personal, it is focused on my design, my sensitivity, my passions. These are the themes I want to explore further at Gucci." Collector of contemporary art and archival fashion pieces, De Sarno started from the archive of the maison, choosing as a starting point that point of color, which he baptized Rosso Ancora, which is part of the history of the brand, and choosing to put in the foreground icons such as the Jackie and Bamboo bags, brought back to their essence, to be combined with blazers and shorts, logoed onesies, crystal bras and double-G inlaid leather shorts, minidresses with precious embroideries that recall those of the clutches of the 50s. And then low-cut tank tops and wallet skirts with wide slits, leather and lace petticoat dresses, décolleté with sparkling fringes and many jewels from the Marina Chain collection of the late sixties, protagonist of the campaign shot by photographer David Sims and interpreted by Daria Werbowy. To close the circle, on the notes of 'Ancora ancora ancora' by Mina, still shorts and tank top, to underline a choice of cleanliness, announced by the collections signed by the internal team after the farewell of Alessandro Michele to the Kering group last November.
For his part, in the Manifesto that accompanies the collection, De Sarno writes that what he sees today "is a story that comes from the joy of living", made up of "attractive objects to collect, not for a museum, to be worn in everyday life". Exactly what this collection seems destined to do, made of iconic pieces such as Jackie bags and moccasins with chunky soles, minimal garments such as shorts and tank tops and preciousness such as crystals and jewels. "Gucci is an opportunity to fall in love with fashion, again" are the words of De Sarno to seal an adventure condensed into a word, suspended between the 'new' and the 'more', which the new creative director of Gucci even had tattooed on his arm immediately after signing the contract.
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