How will Matthieu Blazy outsmart our senses? The question comes back a bit like a game now. Given the unanimity of a simple tank top and jeans during his first show for Bottega Veneta, the 39-year-old French designer's gift to transform wardrobe basics into luxurious pieces was obvious. It was so beautiful, so well done, everything fell perfectly, that for several flashes of seconds, the assembly thought to be ecstatic, therefore, in front of a simple cotton tank top and jeans. The set of essentials - worn that day by Kate Moss - was actually leather. Since then, his impeccable mastery of the material has been imposed in all his collections. The designer even likes to offer nods to this famous set that form the tank top and jeans. Last time, it was made of denim-effect silk flannel.
Fashion show - Bottega veneta - Spring-Summer 2024 ready-to-wear
In pictures
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View slideshow74 photos
The game of appearances
On Saturday night, in Milan, the uniform was there. Worn by American actress Julianne Moore, present in the front row alongside François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, as well as on the catwalk where this wealth of ideas and textile innovations was once again generously proposed. Matthieu Blazy questioned touch and sight by thwarting our instinctive perceptions of leather. What matters here is movement. He marks it with details of cut, with dresses that experiment with the structure of the corset without being tight and others that will seek the draped effect. The clothes are not what we think we see, like this women's shirt worn in a dress, which has all the delicacy of a silk piece. In reality, it is leather.
Thus, through Matthieu Blazy's vision, the look takes on another dimension. The Bottega Veneta trench coat is nothing ordinary, it is flexible, confident to fall, all in volume, with a masterful cape effect. The knitted dresses and sweaters are also part of this notion of work that Blazy wanted to honor as soon as he took office in 2021, by making the most of the know-how of the label founded in 1966. Here, we notice the accuracy of the volumes, both on the clothes and the bags that have gained in proportion, and the work of the fringe that returns a lot on the silhouettes. So many techniques, and to fall right, with an exalted expression of abstract and sculptural lines that recall that the designer once contributed to the success of Celine in the time of Phoebe Philo, after having been behind the rebirth of Margiela, a few years after the departure of the founding creator. There is no doubt that it now translates at Bottega Veneta a look that has not finished sensation.
