In the year of the celebration of their respective anniversaries, Vanity Fair Italia (20th), France (10th) and Spain (15th) have joined forces in an exceptional project that reflects on the myth of beauty as a determining element of the cultural Zeitgeist of recent decades. "In retrospect, their exit from the fashion scene and the arrival of a less perfect beauty represented the beginning of change. For the first time, fragility has won over perfection, vulnerability over power. And here we are today: the return of the top is the last act of a revolution that finally makes peace with its history. After having learned in the last ten years to appreciate different bodies, shapes and ages, a new idea of beauty is finally making its way: that of respect and diversity" said Simone Marchetti, Director of Vanity Fair Italia and Editorial Director of Vanity Fair Europe. "Where have all the flowers gone?" Carla Bruni thus opens the teaser video that introduces the exceptional story of the triple cover of photographers Luigi & Iango in which, for the first time, Vanity Fair presents 21 of the most iconic models who have shaped the fashion world, not only celebrating the famous Supermodels of the 90s, but also honoring legendary figures of the 60s and 70s such as Twiggy, Pat Cleveland and Iman Bowie, among others. Also starring the 50-page collector's portfolio: Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova, Milla Jovovich, Stephanie Seymour, Iman, Helena Christensen, Twiggy, Amber Valletta, Kristen McMenamy, Elisabetta Dessy, Shalom Harlow, Penelope Tree, Lauren Hutton, Pat Cleveland, Carolyn Murphy, Kirsten Owen and Paulina Porizkova.
For several months, Luigi & Iango photographers have traveled the world, from New York to Milan to Paris, in search of the most iconic models of the last century. The result is a captivating black-and-white service that traces the path of beauty over the decades through the faces that were one of the first attacks on patriarchy, on the world ruled only by men.
Supermodels, in fact, have taken power into their own hands until they became more famous even than the designers and fashion and beauty brands they worked for. In addition, to complete the exploration of the myth of beauty, within the issue of Vanity Fair also an essay by the philosopher French Ollivier Pourriol, which explores the relationship between fashion and the Zeitgeist, the "spirit of the age", using food for thought by philosophers such as Hegel and Nietzsche.
The piece explains how iconic figures such as Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, masterfully immortalized by photographer Peter Lindbergh, embodied not only the beauty but also the power and culture of the post-Cold War Western world. And how their presence in collaborations with artists like George Michael has further solidified their status as cultural icons. Pourriol examines the ironies of the industry, between empowerment and audience expectations, emphasizing the complexity of their influence on society.
"Their good fortune is that, having embodied ideals of beauty unattainable to mere mortals, they do not even have to fear seeing their beauty disappear, because, precisely, times have changed with them, and they are growing old at a time when the very idea of ideals of beautyHyenas questioned: our Zeitgeist is now focused on inclusivity, diversity, body positivism," says Olivier Pourriol. "The old idea of perfection, represented by these iconic models, is the last piece of a great puzzle of the new beauty, a place where everyone is included: supermodels, non-conforming bodies, different sexual orientations, different types of skin colors. Beauty today is freedom and inclusion. Everything else is not beauty, it is a prison" concludes Simone Marchetti.
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