Brunch, Backstage Cafe, Backstage Hotel, Tel Aviv/Yaniv Garnot
In the absence of a real foreign country, the Tel Avivian longing for a bit of Europe becomes almost obsessive. You look at the winter forecast and imagine elegant streets and thick-long coats, stalls that warm the heart and stomach and an entire city that puts on a scarf, and continues to function. You know that the chances are slim and that experience teaches otherwise , but winter still does something to you, it turns out.
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A sane brunch in Tel Aviv. Who believed that these words are still with us?
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from this Thai tasting brunch. You won't come back hungry.
Paris Brunch is responsible for Rue Dizengoff, Sa La Vie
in practice, Except for these two weeks that are just ending now, winter is not really winter, the streets are far from elegant and very close to collapse, the coats are neither thick nor long and the stalls are mostly cooling.
The city, scarf or no scarf, is far from functioning.
In this encounter between fantasy and reality, between Europe and the White City, only the plane tickets (and the plane ticket sellers) win.
Until that happens, at least there's the backstage.
Entry point, departure point.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
Respect from floor to ceiling.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
The slightly hidden Tel Aviv hotel (on the back of Dizengoff Square, in the tangle of streets that offer maximum confusion and minimum parking) from the Atlas chain chose from the very beginning to offer the ultimate switch - one minute you're outside, gray and creaking.
And by swinging a heavy wooden door you are inside, relaxed and smiling.
This transition happens here and there in other parts of the city, but here it is immediate, dramatic and so, so necessary.
The building, which housed the municipal tent theater in the distant past, was revived by determined but accommodating hands and renovated so that dignity speaks from the ceiling to the floor, through the walls and floors.
A building for preservation, yes, but how many preserved buildings have not been preserved here in all these years, after all, and how easy it is to text instead of doing.
Here, if things are not clear enough, the performance is exemplary.
Abroad, yes, but also Israel. How complicated it is to implement, how fun when it finally happens.
Paris-Dizengoff
The life worth living, for the people worth living with
To the full article
The winter we deserve.
At the cafe stage/Noam Frisman
These small letters matter.
A hotel brunch that is open to everyone is a somewhat unusual spectacle, although it does exist.
A hotel brunch that is open to everyone throughout the week is already a story to mark and remember and save
And so, about a year and more after the brunch opened here, and many weeks after the horrible lull that was imposed on all of us (and still not over, of course), business is back - for hotel guests but also for the general public, on Friday-Saturday and on weekdays.
These small letters matter.
A hotel brunch that is open to everyone is a somewhat unusual spectacle, although it does exist.
A hotel brunch that is open to everyone throughout the week is already a story to mark and remember and save.
The deal is logistically and operationally complex, but flows well and very quickly induces you to relax, lean back and stop shrinking.
NIS 145 (NIS 100 for children up to the age of 12) will bring starter dishes to the center of the table, one main dish to choose from, unlimited hot drinks and the rest will be completed by the nearby buffet.
At this price, I will preface a final conclusion and bottom line right now, this is an excellent deal.
Business is back.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
A delicious tower.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
Oh, and I forgot the most beautiful word in the renewed Hebrew brunch jargon.
refill
All of these in a refill
Let's start at the beginning, of course, which is a three-tiered platter that arrives shortly after settling in with many plates on it - smoked salmon and Matias, cream cheese and tomato salad with small shreds of mozzarella, fresh lettuce leaves seasoned at the bottom with a sweet vinaigrette, bulgur salad with labneh ball and roasted cauliflower, salad Finely chopped vegetables and some hard cheeses with punch, great potato salad and fruit.
These saucers begin their journey with a slightly aristocratic appeal, are tasted and returned to their place on the silver tray.
Very quickly, of course, they find themselves on the table, in a kind of fun gorging fan which is that Israeli breakfast that we don't get to have too often anymore.
The selection is good,
the look is colorful, the forks know how to combine flavors and the variety does not impose too low a common denominator.
on the contrary.
Oh, and I forgot the most beautiful word in the renewed Hebrew brunch lexicon.
refill
All of these in a refill.
And coffee too.
How fun it is not to calculate.
How much more fun when you're not being reckoned with.
lean back and relax.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
Seven mains await your order to join all these successes.
Here there is a classic option of eggs to choose from (with mushrooms, onions, gouda, tomatoes and herbs, and also an option for a vegan omelet), zucchini-cauliflower-broccoli pancakes with tahini and tomato salsa, hail pudding with egg salad, rocket and parmesan (which was less hail pudding and more pie) and also a well-made scrambled egg that gets a thick slice of challah on the bottom and a thin layer of Parmesan on top.
Apart from these, the stars here are also an excellent buttery croissant sandwich with a "perfect egg", smoked salmon and hollandaise sauce, salty French toast with an egg, gouda, a little asparagus and the same thick hollandaise sauce, and also pancakes with caramelized bananas, meringue pieces and hazelnuts, whipped cream And some thick and deep caramel sauce on top.
Tie break.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
There is a long and handsome counter here that knows what you got for the table and knows what you will want and need, next to it, before it, inside it and after it
The buffet completes this celebration in a focused, efficient and unobtrusive manner.
This is not a hotel loading monster, nor even the slightly more civilized buffets of similar brunches in Tel Aviv, those that somehow try to go with and feel without.
or vice versa.
No, here there is a long and handsome counter that knows what you got for the table and knows what you will want and need, next to it, before it, inside it and after it.
Bread, first of all, obviously, fresh and warm, which was cut almost by itself into excessively thick slices, your fault of course.
Next to it are panchots of home-made pesto and bitter and dipped skordalia, a pepper dip with a bright color and butter with the right texture, waiting for a decent spread.
Next door, patiently wait small breakfast pastries, personal muffins and yeast cakes with a knife that somewhat cruelly tests the threshold of your self-discipline.
There are also small cups of millefeuille dessert and similar cups of chia pudding, a granola-yogurt-fruit self-assembly station, successful jams and also great squeezed juices, based on apples, oranges and beets.
The game-breaker of this buffet - and I would also call it the game-breaker of the brunch in general - comes in a chilled and ice-filled champagne glass, with bottles of sparkling wine in it.
The absolute majority of places, at brunch and in general, will use alcohol and morning cocktails as a springboard to inflate final bills.
Here, while it is operationally divorced - in ownership and in use, because for some reason many of the tables and diners preferred to skip - you get both largies and a very subtle, much needed, very enjoyable buzz.
"Mimosa," proclaims the small sign next to it, encouraging you to mix.
"As it is," you read the exact same sign on your third fill.
One dessert is enough.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
And some dessert.
In the cafe stage/Walla! system, Yaniv Garnot
The backstage brunch started already last year with a show cover and a design stage, another homage to what was going on here at the theater back then.
Thus, dishes were chosen that beckoned to the world of glamor - from stylish salt shakers, through Shakespeare books that playfully hide the cutlery to trays simulating the lighting of dressing rooms and make-up corners - and the rest was done by heavy curtains and guided imagination.
But the point is not the salt shakers, nor the lamps, nor even Shakespeare. The point is The place, and the way it makes you drift away with the blessed detachment. The food helps, of course, and so does the coffee, but there are dozens of food and coffee combinations within the radius closest to the hotel. There is style here, and if this Israeli winter is still happening and knocking on the glass ceiling above, there is also Europe.
Brunch, Backstage Cafe, Backstage Hotel, Beilinson 6, Tel Aviv, Sunday-Thursday 7:00-13:45, Friday-Saturday 7:00-14:15
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