Minimalist and expensive: this is how “quiet luxury” is defined, or the fashion fad of the ultra-rich that we spotted through the outfits worn by Gwyneth Paltrow during her trial in 2023, or on the catwalk. The Row fashion shows, the American label of the Olsen sisters which is a hit.
A “high prices, low profile” trend, where clothes are presented in noble materials (leather, corduroy, vicuña wool, etc.) and sober colors, oscillating between gray, navy blue and coffee shades.
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Also read: Why do the ultra-rich only wear coffee-colored clothes?
Since the release of the successful series
Succession
in 2018, whose costumes embodied this style, many have seen Loro Piana as a benchmark brand in terms of “quiet luxury”.
Not Damien Bertrand, its CEO.
“If ‘quiet’ means calm, I don’t think it’s the right word for us,” he explains in an interview with the
Business of Fashion
.
“I accepted this management position with a clear objective.
Making Loro Piana the most desired luxury brand in the world, he says.
All our work goes in this direction.
The former general manager of Christian Dior Couture, who has already proven himself in the LVMH stable, took up his position at Loro Piana on November 15, 2021.
Fashion show - Loro piana - Ready to wear Fall-Winter 23-24
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow22 photos
See the slideshow22 photos
Fabio d'Angelantonio's successor therefore decides to remove the “quiet luxury” label attached to Loro Piana.
An image that we owe to the series
Succession
and to the wardrobe of the character of Kendall Roy, a wealthy heir seeking to take his father's place: the main protagonist wears, in a few scenes, the White Sole by Loro Piana, these shoes with a hand-sewn white sole with a discreet design.
Just like the refined cashmere caps.
“The brand was successful decades ago, at a time when no one used the term “quiet luxury”,” Damien Bertrand prefers to specify.
Enough to confirm that Loro Piana was present well before the trend emerged, but not only that.
Innovate, but maintain your values
This has nothing to do with any “discreet luxury” if the brand does not show during Fashion Weeks, does not communicate via over-publicized muses, avoids any logo on its clothes and accessories or does not have its own artistic director.
For Damien Bertrand, Loro Piana is above all “beyond the rhythm of fashion”, with a style office built around a collective “within which young talented workers with new ideas collaborate with those who have lots of experience."
The idea for the brand: focus its strategy on innovation, while maintaining its values “and a coherent approach with communication and contemporaneity”.
Also read: How did Loro Piana cashmere become the fashion obsession of big bosses?
The idea, ultimately, is to allow the brand to remain true to itself, thus excluding it from the luxury streetwear landscape.
Much more than having made Loro Piana a brand devoid of logos, Damien Bertrand specifies that the innovation is embodied above all in the fact of having introduced “the first 100% recycled cashmere and the first mixture of denim and cashmere material ".
Or in that of experiencing great success in the field of leather goods, “booming” specifies the CEO.
“I often say that with Loro Piana, we touch on the exceptional through the nobility of the material, but also through our clientele,” explained Damien Bertrand in the columns of Le
Figaro
in March 2023. Favor the exception and never stop innovating, this is the house's recipe for proving its authenticity and distancing it from the trend system.
While welcoming into its very select clientele the most powerful like Chamath Palihapitiya, venture capitalist and CEO of Social Capital.
On video,
Succession
, season 4, the trailer