Marluza Restaurant, Tel Aviv/Yaniv Garnot
Dor Eben may not let it out with his body language, but he sure is pleased.
There is no dramatic dance choreography or theatrical movements here.
The elbows are also still a bit tucked in, remembering well the previous kitchen of his Marluza restaurant, probably afraid of hitting the wall that enclosed him and his cooks, the one who kept them to a minimum and demanded almost impossible design creativity from them.
He doesn't dance, really not, and his muscles are still acting on the basis of the old memory embedded in them, and only on his mouth. But something is still a little loose. The air is more flexible next to him, and whoever looks at him from the side, from the bar, from all sides in fact, recognizes flashes here and there. A back that makes a half turn without getting stuck in anything, a neck that can take an almost full panorama, limited only to personal flexibility and the quality of sleep at night, or small steps that allow themselves to expand as the evening progresses.
And a smile too. A stone generation smiles. Not wide, not prominent, not demonstrated. Even hidden. But smiling. And with the smile, comes the appetite
What comes with the smile.
Merloza/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
Mor Hazan actually brings it out with her body language.
Her pedometer, if one does at all with such a quantum level of calculation, now stands at the equivalent of at least five services in the old Merloza, and her evening hasn't even reached the main points yet.
She actually does dance.
Not in comparison, of course, but from one corner of the bar to the end of the restaurant, from the position next to the kitchen to the chairs in the large square, it is impossible to define it other than that.
In fact, and I'm pretty sure that's what I saw at one point, she used the large diagonal of the matrage into a floor exercise, like you see once every four years at the Olympics.
Yes, with jumps and jumps and hand movements.
I'm convinced, though at this point it might just have been the alcohol.
What is certain is that Mohor Hazan is smiling.
Wide and prominent and demonstrative.
Not hidden at all.
smiling.
And with the smile, the crowd came.
With a story like his
Dizengoff's pulse is beating again, and it is only increasing
To the full article
Greetings to the market. Merloza/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
The new Merloza (2.0, as the top sign outside is careful to say, subtly corrects another, older sign that is placed below it) is probably the most successful real estate move that Tel Aviv has known in the last year, and mobbing for the Pantheon in general. In a city where you can't have small talk Without talking about buildings and apartments and spaces and rents, it means a lot. It means almost everything.
That restaurant was a complete anomaly in the Carmel Market - as romantic and complex as any anomaly actually. On the one hand inside it, an essential part of the texture and the people. On the other hand, outside it, in the experience and the food and also in the coordination of expectations the day-to-day she had to manage with the visitors. These, naturally, came for tasting tours and were looking for pictures and such raunchy binge eating, or at least some clapping at the street food. Marluza, for better or worse, could provide that, but she knew she was worth much more She
knew and was right.
Mobbing to Pantheon.
Merloza/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
This business is not for the faint of heart.
Come to him real, determined, stubborn and brave.
We will talk about the food later, first comes the sweat
Even himself described this process beautifully and revealingly here, in a series of personal columns that took him, and us, to his memories of the war and Rotem the waitress who was murdered, to deep questions about a hamburger-hit, to parting with the market and to the transition itself.
It was an insightful peek behind the scenes of the Israeli food world, with small and rare glimpses from one who knows, from the inside.
It was also, for those who were interested and asked, a free coaching workshop whose bottom line is brutal - mind you, this business is not a business for errand boys and hitchhikers.
Come to him real, determined, stubborn and brave.
We will talk about the food later, first comes the sweat.
Lack of marketing, Merloza's avocado salad/Walla! system, will generate profits
And so, this centralized space, which is actually two connected spaces, is actually a refreshing and continuous gust of good intentions
And let the sweat come.
Those who followed Marloza's Instagram account during the transition saw a non-commercial and unfiltered Israeli food reality.
There was cleaning and plastering, plaster and cement and paint and lime, installations and moving and clothes that should be hung in the hall of fame of the local renovators.
The end result is a house.
A restaurant with air in your lungs and wind in your hair, small touches that improved what was here before (Nir Mesika's Timna restaurant), replaced what needed replacing and modestly left what didn't need to be touched.
And so, this centralized space, which is actually two connected spaces (and why shouldn't it already slide into the street, and why shouldn't the street already be a pedestrian area?), is actually a refreshing and continuous gust of good intentions.
Simple but welcoming, warm but not stuffy.
and nice
Shall we eat something?
Don't forget to breathe.
Cantor and Ibn/Noam Frisman
Marluza's menu is still Marluza.
That means a lot of fish and not a few happy plates and vegetarian options next to them, but in a way that makes a mockery of everything you thought about phrases like "fish restaurant", "beautiful fish", "skewers" and, probably, "fish" in their own right.
A sea of tears, happiness.
You start here with thick-cut bread from the nearby Alexander bakery, with a sun-dried tomato, garlic and olive oil dip (NIS 24), white ikra with red onion (NIS 25) and a spicy plate - roasted, pickled, fresh and confit garlic (NIS 18).
The vegetable section is fortifying, I remember well the vegetarian evenings in the market.
It has a salad of greens and salty cheese (48 NIS), a salad of roasted artichokes with tomato cream and almonds (54 NIS), grilled padrons or zakuini (44-48 NIS), purple cabbage that comes out of the tabon with sweet corn cream and homemade paneer cheese and also two proven hits in the form of Eggplant chips, without which there really is no Merloza (nor a table at Merloza, because everyone ordered one) and something called here "fresh avocado" (NIS 48) during what is probably a marketing sting, but the opposite.
That is, for the benefit of the customer, some refreshing - a huge portion of lentil cream, tomato salsa, confit garlic, fresh thyme, chili and Orfali pepper.
There is no without it.
Aubergine chips of Marloza/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
This fan now provides no less than 18 servings of fish.
It is a crazy number, which does not deceive you with all kinds of duplications and duplications.
Each dish is a little different, each plate with its own bright flash, each generation fish
Piscean affairs begin constructively, move to skewers and end in hot matters.
In fact, hot.
This fan now provides no less than 18 servings of fish.
It is a crazy number, which does not deceive you with all kinds of duplications and duplications.
Each dish is a little different, each plate with its own bright flash, each generation fish.
There is salmon caviar with potato skin chips and wakame spice (NIS 47) which is what happens when you decide to play and invest with this decorative-design raw material in our restaurants, sea fish sashimi with caramel-yuzu-fish sauce sauce (NIS 60), tartare with Citrus vinaigrette and wasabi leaves (NIS 68), bass carpaccio with yellow pepper cream (NIS 60), tuna tataki with half-pickled cucumber and "chow chow" soy sauce (NIS 64) and Moser ceviche (NIS 62) ) colorful and happy, with shifka and coriander, parsley and pine nuts, tomatoes and onions, lavender on the bottom and a little honey on top.
As usual when it's good - a fork, then a spoon, then that bread, then the remains of shame disappearing into thin air while you fight with the excellent barmaid who just wants to do her job and clear the plate.
When you decide to play and invest.
Merloza's salmon caviar/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
The yakitori triangle - also a homage to the fever of making that gripped Merloza one of the last summers - continues all this with a pair of bass (sweet sauce, NIS 46), white fish (with yellow curry, NIS 46) or fish kebab (yogurt glaze, same price) , and the main course concludes with an eight-course meal that proclaims "fish" on top, then runs freely in the sea.
There is, among other things, a whole fish roasted in the oven (NIS 116) and a grilled filet in a tabon with pesto-pistachio fettuccine (NIS 97), a grilled halibut skewer with a campfire potato (NIS 76) and a sea bream filet in herb puree on burnt cauliflower cream ( NIS 97), fish shawarma (NIS 76) and bream cubes with green garlic aioli (NIS 80) and a fried moser wing (NIS 60) which is a marvel of kitchen resourcefulness and the secret to any team meal, and a genius twist in the form of confit salmon in soy and honey, with Crispy lettuce leaves, Tograshi, almonds and olive oil (NIS 58).
Salmon, yes, but another, better.
A genius flash.
Merloza's salmon confit/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
Relative to someone who doesn't like desserts and doesn't make desserts and in general has developed an incredibly intense interest in desserts, Eben Itar has an excellent common denominator, a stamp for such a meal and actually excels regardless of what is happening around.
It's a creamy Melbi, yogurt ice cream with good things on top and thick chocolate mousse - three classics that start with a wide-eyed look and end with a dangerous slide into violence on the part of the two holding the spoons at their sides.
Only a little sweet, very tasty.
There is a dance, and there is also a smile.
A stone/system and voila!, it will yield money
The red clock hung rather low on one of the central pillars of the bar's structure shines its digits to the staff, and to the entire air.
It's a clock that can also be seen in new systems that are preparing to download the newspaper to print, and in the countless shipping companies that can't afford to delay, to delay, certainly not to postpone.
Here, naturally, it's a little different. No one measures hard times for any portion, even if there is a table Who sanctifies the troubles, the food will clear his mind very quickly. The staff, it seems, are not stressed and do not shy away from the red seconds that change before their eyes. On the contrary, relaxed here, wide open, and mostly quiet in a good section, but not too quiet, in a better section.
Above the red clock, as if to prove these claims, another sign was hung, small and simple. "Don't forget to breathe," it was written in marker. Now you can breathe, I would update, breathe and smile.
Marloza (2.0, good) 24 Lilinblum, Tel Aviv, 077-2302430
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