They are the small subversive gestures that help to uncover the extraordinary in the ordinary, giving life to new ways of inhabiting the world: the Gucci collection designed by Sabato De Sarno, on stage today at the Fonderia Macchi in Milan in front of guests such as the actress Kirsten Dunst and the protagonist of Sanremo Ghali.
"Looking for a small subversive gesture. Looking at things from a perspective different from the one that is taken for granted to be the most suitable, not sticking to the rules. This - writes De Sarno in the poster accompanying his third collection for Gucci - is my way of dreaming, without haste, visualizing and stratifying aspirations as if they were the bricks of a house".
As regards his approach, his way of working, the creative director explains that "in my fashion as in my dreams, the exercise is the same. Searching for a void in the folds that wants to be filled. Looking at the detail very closely , before feeling free to wander off in search of a broader perspective. Seizing the extraordinary where the ordinary is taken for granted."
A procedure almost at odds with the imaginative fashion of Alessandro Michele: "My dreams, like my fashion - are still De Sarno's words - always dialogue with reality. Because I am not looking for another world to inhabit , rather than ways to inhabit this world".
Translated into fashion, this realistic approach translates into a series of small subversive acts of the rules of ready-to-wear.
Thus the coat, the great protagonist of winter, has a masculine cut and a hidden buttoning on the back, which transforms it into an embrace, as do bomber jackets, peacoats and leather jackets.
All paired with jewel-scarves with long wings that fall down the back.
There is very long, starting from the coats, including some wonderful ones with cascades of sequins, but also very short, with shorts combined with fake twin sets, mini tailored overalls or knitted ones combined with riding boots, even high to the thigh, or to moccasins with platforms.
Among the dresses, the long bustier models alternate with petticoats, which are a set of layers held together by laces, where the lace, cut and recomposed, is inlaid with embroidery, of other laces or velvets.
And then the new bag, GG Milano, with the flat and perforated logo to reveal what's underneath.
A new way to see the extraordinary in the ordinary, in De Sarno style.
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