In the Saint Laurent women's collection for Autumn/Winter 2024/25, the artistic director of the maison Anthony Vaccarello wanted to remind us of what was once truly at the center of fashion: clothes.
And he did it by canceling the suit.
In essence, in contravention of every rule, the designer managed to enhance the clothes, through the veiled display of the models' bodies themselves, enhanced by the transparency of her garments.
A true masterstroke, as the brilliant young designer has proven himself today, who with this collection has managed to make her woman sensual without ever making her seem vulgar.
The models' bodies are shown by stretch tulle shirts and pencil skirts, in powder, beige, nude and biscuit colours.
But also from tight silk dresses, similar to underwear, which reveal and at the same time envelop the woman who wears them, like hypergraphic X-rays.
Transparency is ultimately one of Saint Laurent's codes, but it is reinterpreted by Vaccarello who reduces the distance between the garment and the skin to a minimum, in such a way as to determine a fusion, with the fabric appearing to evaporate like fog.
Caressing the leg just below the knee, the length is classic, but the content is new.
Evoking the indelible "nude" dress worn during her last public appearance by Marilyn Monroe, a frequent reference for the maison, a disturbing ambivalence runs through the looks.
The key word is to pierce the property of feminine artifice, reaching the ephemeral lightness that turns out to be an illusion: can purity be provocative?
In the end, on the platform there is always the Saint Laurent woman with her worldly appetites.
As there are the iconic pieces of the maison, together with a crêpe georgette dress it seems to liquefy on her body which contrasts with the immaterial lightness of a coat made from countless marabou feathers.
Eco-fur coats and leather garments are on show.
Decolleté with high heels and thin, narrow belts at the waist.
On the head, nude-colored silk turbans.
The theme of transparency, transposed through a decidedly current prism, extends to glass jewellery, dangling earrings and large bracelets.
But those of the bijoux are the only lights to illuminate a boudoir atmosphere, with two circular rooms in dim light, covered in emerald damask velvet, a tribute to the Parisian salons of Avenue Marceau.
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