It's a fashion for uncertain times seen these days at Milan Fashion Week.
Beautiful products that wisely speak more of style than trend, in an attempt to overcome the intrinsically ephemeral nature of fashion, to respond to the human need for security that characterizes these difficult years.
And what is more reassuring than
a dress designed to last,
perhaps not a lifetime but at least a few seasons?
The garments presented in a Milan buried under the cloud of smog, crossed by marches against the war in Palestine and Ukraine are designed to never go out of fashion.
Dramas that are never mentioned on the catwalk, but whose echoes can certainly be felt.
It resonates in the sense of protection of the new oversized volumes of jackets and coats, in the reassuring embrace of soft and material wools, in the primordial warmth of leathers and furs, obviously almost all non-animal, as the market requires.
Yes, the market demands it, which interprets the tastes and desires of buyers, but some even dare to go one step further.
There is, in the air,
the desire for gentle fashion
, an almost anachronistic term, so much so that to evoke it we have to refer to the last century, to stylistic features of a world evoked by bows and ruffles, ruffles and flounces.
And then, in contrast, the desire to throw your heart beyond the obstacle, to dare the light against the darkness.
On the omnipresent black and the inevitable gray flashes of sequins and metal nets
light up
, protagonists of often very short dresses, petticoats that are a veil, combined with thigh-high boots or feather sandals.
Feathers
return to punctuate more than one collection, as do crystals and fringes.
There is a desire to shine and have fun again, so much so that the roaring twenties echo in many places.
There is a desire for a restart, for hope, for a light that shines in the darkness.
And so on every side there is a swarm of
fringes and sequins, embroidery and sparkles
, to light up hopefully better evenings.
And then
the transparencies, everywhere,
hidden by maxi coats and large capes, paired with ties and marabou sandals.
While there is a lot of talk about values and sustainability, the frenetic and unsustainable rush from one show to another continues, in a compressed calendar that does not allow you to follow all the shows.
A problem that the president of the national chamber of fashion Carlo Capasa has well in mind and which he has highlighted at the other international fashion weeks: Milan needs one more day of fashion shows, as also underlined by Giorgio Armani who, with his usual generosity , has closed the review of proposals for next winter.
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