Rotch, Rishon Lezion/Rotch
At the end, and probably also at the beginning, it's the hugs.
There is no other way to distill it.
You sit on the corner of the bar in Rotch, so that the angle gives you a panorama of in and out, into the kitchen and away to the street, and you watch what's going on with some astonishment.
People come and go, some don't even sit down here, but they all stop for a while.
Everyone.
Is this a community meeting in Kibbutz Rothschild in Rishon Lezion?
A board meeting at a startup where everyone is a member of the military?
A Peruvian hostel that just finishes hosting a "Yaniv" tournament?
Rotch, you make assumptions, is a bit of all of these, and a lot of other things too, but the common denominator is clear, and he doesn't even require the same high position on the corner bar.
At the end, and probably at the very beginning, these must be the hugs.
When everyone stops.
Rotch/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
I have not known such generous amounts in other cities, and it is not evident that this is some kind of special treatment, but a standard
The bar-bistro-restaurant (and also a bit of a cafe, why not, actually?) has managed for almost two years to balance itself between all these tasks, to mix morning and night with a charming naturalness, to serve brunch when it's dark and cocktails when the sun is not yet shining in full force, and not to lose the grace His natural on the road.
Those hugs, by the way, are only of interest to first-time customers, and even that is doubtful.
Waitresses who say hello to regular customers, say, and owners - Eitan Pliman, Ben Shmolevich, Yoni Stauberg and Nimrod Mizrahi, four friends of course - who greet almost everyone who comes in like this, kitchen staff who go out to hug someone waiting for take-away and I swear I've even seen couriers unite in a hug with colleagues .
At this point in the evening, however, it might just have been the cocktails, or the chasers.
I have not known such generous amounts in other cities, and it is not evident that this is some kind of special treatment, but a standard.
Hugs, we already said.
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To the full article
A little of all of these, and many other things as well.
Rotch/David Moyal
It starts with brunch, an elusive concept that usually disappears even before the weekend kicks into high gear, and here it simply aligns with the Israeli collective passion and is served every day, until 8:00 p.m.
The menu, almost needless to guess, does both, a lot of this and a lot of that, and is proud to succeed without dropping a single ball on the floor.
It starts with brunch, an elusive concept that usually disappears even before the weekend kicks into high gear, and here it simply aligns with the Israeli collective passion and is served every day, until 8:00 p.m. Yes, it's eight. Yes, in the evening.
There is a "bonze" here Verno" (an open butter croissant filled with egg salad, smoked salmon, lettuce, tomato, purple and green onion, and also a small salad on the side, NIS 48) which pays tribute to Karin Giorno, a regular customer who was murdered at the cursed Nova party, two corrupt options of Grilled C J's (with mozzarella, cheddar, parmesan and truffle aioli, and in a more French version, filled with bouche cheese), avocado toast on sourdough bread, salmon bagel and rafanche brioche toast, benedict yellow and liquid and also breakfast with coffee (NIS 69), The wonderful kind of two eggs to choose from and lots of little things next to them, and especially the kind you always want in the evening, and almost never have.
Both, and a lot.
Rotch/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
The "regular" evening menu is conducted in the world as if there is no brunch, and with enough self-confidence to maintain this disregard.
It has appetizers (huge, after all, we left Tel Aviv) such as eggplant and polenta balls (NIS 46), worthy anchors such as a plate of labneh and fried cauliflower, stuffed vine leaves and liver feta with cherry tomato jam and also a mountain of fries with grated feta cheese and parsley (34 shekels).
Six large salads are planned for you later, including burrata games and a large bowl of Thai papaya mix, and with them fresh carpaccio (beef or fish), sashimi with citrus yuzu sauce and also an excellent ceviche, on thick labne.
And focaccia on the side as well.
even though.
Totally there.
Rotch/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
The dairy side ranges well between gnocchi with a creamy chestnut sauce and sweet potato ravioli, tortellini stuffed with cheese and chard and what is known here as "rochapuri" - a play on words that hides an almost pornographic creation, which combines khachapuri dough, melted cheese, poached eggs, cheddar cheese, Caesar dressing, grated feta cheese, reduced balsamic and chives.
You hesitate, you avoid, you watch this thing pass before your eyes, and then, like a magic wand that connects longing for the student life that was once yours, and for the lunch that should always be yours, you find yourself there.
Totally there.
The business rises a little more with meat, and quite a bit of it.
A solid chicken breast sandwich, roast beef in a ciabatta, a huge chorizo sausage in a croissant-pretzel, two versions of a hamburger - classic and monstrous - and also a schnitzel on the plate.
I mean, it seems to me that there was a plate there, because the schnitzel was of the double-blanket type, with the edges and those hand movements that don't know from which angle to reach in order to best deal with the size.
Exaggerated, big and sweet.
Rotch/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
Seven desserts close the food chapter and do it exactly as you thought they would - excessive, big and sweet of course.
There is "Pistachio" here (epic pistachio cream on cookie crumble, pistachio ganache and white chocolate, vanilla whipped cream and pistachio pieces, NIS 52), a large piece of buttery crack pie, an Oreo cheese cake, a vegan "chocolate pie" and a brulee tart that succeeds Make soft and crispy at the same time.
The shell of all this delicious and generous is a working bar, the most active there is, which is both the focus of the place's energy and, probably, the place where its heart beats the strongest in the space.
From his corner you can see, and you can recognize, the road and the hard work it requires, the people and the connections it creates.
And the hugs too.
So many hugs.
Rightfully so.
Rotch, Rothschild 64, Rishon Lezion, 077-9386287
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