There is a Latin American city that until not many years ago
scared away tourists
, and
today attracts them
by the millions.
In fact,
they used to call it “the horrible one”
, since in 1964 the writer Sebastián Salazar Bondy gave it that nickname in his essay “Lima the horrible one”, in which he criticized the inequality in his society since colonial times, and the adjective It stuck: for many - even its own inhabitants -,
Lima
was a “horrible” city, which only stood out for its devilish traffic, pollution, dirt, insecurity and chaos.
Travelers who arrived in the capital of Peru practically passed by - so it was even recommended - towards Cusco, Machu Picchu, Nazca or the Amazon, the main tourist magnets of the country.
But
in a short time everything changed
, especially since the beginning of this century, and by
2019
the panorama had radically changed: that year, the Peruvian capital
received more than 4.5 million tourists
, and if it had not been for the pandemic , the figure would have continued to grow.
The traditional balconies of the historic center of Lima
Among international visitors, the main sending countries were the United States and Chile, with 12% each, and
in third place, Argentina
, with 7%.
Then came Colombia, Brazil and Mexico, with 6% each, according to data from the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism, MINCETUR.
In 2022, the first post-pandemic year, the number
recovered to more than 2 million visitors
, and would have grown more if it had not been for the protests and social problems that the country was going through, which prevented the numbers from rising further.
Despite this, the city was recognized this year in the World Travel Awards - which distinguish the most popular tourist destinations - as “
the best city to visit
” among those that were declared
world cultural heritage
by UNESCO.
View from the San Isidro ravines.
Photo PB/Travel
And Lima stopped being a city of passage to tourist spots: the average stay of international tourists in 2019 was
five nights
, according to the Foreign Tourist Profile (PTE), prepared by MINCETUR.
How did that “horrible” Lima become a city coveted by visitors, with an increasingly wide range of accommodation, gastronomic establishments, tours and activities?
The key: world-class gastronomy
One of the central keys to this change in Lima can be found in its
gastronomy
, which was initially led by a group of chefs who began to recover traditional products and recipes with the varied flavors of the country - from the sea, the jungle and the mountain-, was turning the Peruvian capital into a great
gastronomic destination
.
Central, the "best restaurant in the world" in 2023.
The move was so successful that Peru was declared the "best gastronomic and cultural destination in the world" in 2018, and Lima became recognized as the "gastronomic capital of Latin America."
Today it receives thousands of tourists who come to take gastronomic tours of one or several days, in a destination that has been creating its own personality, and transforming neighborhoods that have recovered a renewed charm.
It is no small thing to say that the
Central restaurant
, by Virgilio Martínez and Pía León, was chosen “
Best in the world
” in 2023 in the prestigious ranking The World's 50 Best, becoming the first Latin American establishment to achieve
world leadership
.
Central, along with Maido, a true “Mecca” of Nikkei food (fusion of Peruvian or Japanese cuisines), were ranked
in the top 5 in the world
, and are now the main emblems of a revolution that in other years was promoted by chef
Gastón Acurio
and his initial restaurant Astrid y Gastón, which was followed by others such as La Mar, which is defined as “Peruvian ceviche” and whose success spread to the world, with branches in Santiago de Chile, Buenos Aires, Bogotá, Miami , San Francisco and Doha.
Peruvian chef Mitsuharu Tsumura at his restaurant Maido.
Added to the explosion of signature restaurants coveted in the world
is the city's street cuisine
, which, both in markets and popular venues, also stands out for its spectacular flavors, and at very affordable prices.
From the center to the sea
r
Hand in hand with the gastronomic appeal that placed it on the map of world tourism, Lima
was rediscovering and revaluing its main attractions
, starting with the historic center, which was declared
a World Heritage Site
by UNESCO in 1991, for its originality and for concentrating 608 historical monuments, built in the Hispanic era.
There, around the Plaza Mayor, there are historical buildings of great architectural and artistic value, such as the Cathedral, the Archbishop's Palace, the Church of Santo Domingo and the convent of San Francisco.
The traditional balconies of the historic center of Lima.
This entire complex was recovered and today looks in its best condition, with its
characteristic balconies
, which were restored and preserved based on a plan by the Municipality of Lima, which invited companies and people to “adopt a balcony”, so that they could continue looking like they did originally.
In the historic center, other
works built during the viceregal period
also stand out , such as the Stone Bridge over the Rímac River, the Paseo de Aguas, the Alameda de los Descalzos or the Plaza de Toros de Acho.
And there is also the Maury Hotel, where, one version says,
the authentic pisco sour, the emblematic drink of Peru, was invented,
where it was enriched with egg white and Angostura bitters.
But perhaps the main transformation of Lima was to stop turning its back on the sea and begin to take advantage of those magnificent views provided by its location on the high cliffs that overlook the Pacific.
Paragliders over the coast, a typical postcard of Miraflores.
Photo Shutterstock
And, linking history with gastronomy, in the downtown area there is also the
Chinatown
, where you can
taste the typical chifa
, a food that arose from the fusion between Peruvians and coolies, Chinese immigrants who arrived in Peru in the mid-19th century. .
There in several places, there are unmissable dishes such as chaufa rice, fried with chicken or seafood, all at a low price.
Facing the sea
The other side of Lima's transformation was the “rediscovery” of the sea, which many Lima residents "opened their eyes" to that treasure of incomparable presence, which today can be enjoyed from a long coastal park that goes from San Isidro in the north to Ravine in the south, passing through Miraflores.
Today, a large part of life - and tourism - in Lima walks along these coasts equipped with cycle paths, squares, parks and sports fields, and even a shopping center - Larcomar - open to panoramic views over the Pacific.
Parks and squares beautify the Lima coastline.
Photo PB/Travel.
On this long and enchanting coast, the landscape includes
paragliders
- the launch site is in the Miraflores ravines - and the
dozens of surfers
who march to the coast every day in search of the best waves.
One of the most important transformations of this long coastline was that of the
Barranco
neighborhood , which in other times housed large summer residences of rich families and, after years of abandonment, became a
center of bohemia, art, nightlife
and cultural life, with street artists, graffiti and events.
Previously semi-empty and dark, Barranco is now
packed with walkers day and night
, and its bars and restaurants, as well as its art galleries and ateliers, are packed at all hours.
Barranco, a revitalized bohemian neighborhood.
Photo Shutterstock
Of course, the pending challenges for the city are still many, and
they surely begin with the traffic
, which continues to be chaotic and noisy, and makes many tourists decide to stay near their accommodations -mostly located in Miraflores-, in instead of embarking on a tour of a city that, increasingly, invites you to explore and enjoy it.