Pop-up from Tarlo, Sharona Market, Tel Aviv/Yaniv Garnot
Sunday, 9:55 a.m., and the queue for Matarlo is persistent and active enough to make most of the bakeries in Tel Aviv, and in fact all of Israel, a little jealous.
It flows in consistently, consists of everything our company has to offer, and suffers from only one problem, very specific but also very significant - it's Sunday, and Metrello is closed.
The facial expressions of those entering (and quickly exiting) are the stuff from which docu, comedy and yes, even tragedy are made.
If I were a cartoonist or a cartoonist, a screenwriter of a prank movie in the eighties or someone looking for an emotional anchor for the next twenty episodes of his Turkish telenovela, this is where I would place the equipment, and start absorbing.
Adi Peretz does not understand.
"Here, look, we wrote," he points to me his Instagram post, in which the words "Monday to Saturday" shine, in cream-white on black.
I respond with the only words I have, which I have acquired through cumulative experience of far too long texts, and begin to tell him that nobody really reads anything these days, but the front door guesses again and opens by itself, and the telenovela continues.
until it's over.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
In a rough calculation, which even my poor 3 math units are capable of, these 27 days will spread about 27 thousand pastries over the next ones
The current pop-up of Peretz and his Metrello opened last week in the outer part of Sharona Market in Tel Aviv, and will continue until March 22.
A month and a gross day, and a total of 27 days of activity (not including Sunday, well, but definitely including Saturday), in what for many restaurants in our places is already considered a period of activity that the word "mythological" is used to describe it.
In a rough calculation, which even my poor 3 math units are capable of, these 27 days will spread about 27 thousand pastries over the next ones.
That's double the usual northern amount, yet leads directly to Metrello's second problem of aligning expectations with its downtown customers.
Let's call this problem "till we finish".
Peretz burst out laughing.
"Yesterday someone yelled at me at six in the evening. At six! We were sitting outside long after there was nothing left, and she said that it was written in the newspaper and that it was a shame. She literally used that word. She yelled at me 'shame'."
I wonder if she was just lazy and kept the Kaplan Demonstrations Lexicon, but sympathize with her a bit too.
You never know how I would react in a similar situation, we've all been there.
And yes, that name is usually in Metrello.
new morning
Tuscany, Paris and Tel Aviv in the Golan Heights
To the full article
Coordination of expectations is required.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
We speak lightly, interrupted only once every twenty seconds by customers who haven't read that fine print.
There are mothers here on maternity leave and soldiers who got off the line in the north only to be bald from here (Matralo's mother base in Ein Zivan is now closed for this pop-up) and from here (Sunday, as mentioned), a cute group of workers in one of the offices in the nearby towers and two young women who are trying to fill in gaps In light of the weekend photos.
Kubler-Ross's grief model offers five stages for dealing with the loss, which are also suitable for this sad situation - denial and isolation ("the doors are open and you are here"), anger ("it's not written anywhere"), bargaining ("is there really nothing in the ovens?") , depression ("I can't believe I came especially") and acceptance ("we'll come tomorrow").
To them one can add a special ingredient within this emotional dough, which is the pulsating ability of Israelis to think that they actually arrived here in the only second this week when there is no line at all, that the chairs are up just like that, and that everyone is waiting for them to enter.
We will come (also) tomorrow.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
24 hours later, and routine is back.
It's not the weekend queue that hit social media in a long and winding segment, but it is unusual for this hour, and for a Monday.
What's more, the queue is happy, and very reminiscent of what happens almost every random morning in the Golan Heights.
There, it's mostly excited travelers who finally get to tick off the biggest tourist attraction in the north in recent years - yes, the Banias, your time has come.
Here, if you think about it, it's exactly the same.
Travelers who can't travel now, and can finally tick off this attraction they were told about, or those who got there and didn't stay because the line was too long, and because someone from this group made the common mistake of saying the words "it's just a croissant".
Engineering class.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
"Why would you want a croissant in the evening when you're tired, and then you'll be angry with me? You get up at eight in the morning and go eat a steak? I'm completely fine that there's nothing left at half past twelve"
At this stage of his life, and that of Matrello, Peretz is no longer excited by the queue, nor is he annoyed by angry women who want to see him embarrassed.
Both there and here, he does his best, and a little more, and hopes that everything will go smoothly.
His staff meet the visitors at the doors, ask and order for them, bring them in to look at the display case and make difficult decisions - staring time here is long in a disturbed but natural way - and even pack the sweets for them (the savory croissants are only ready after the order, of course) even before they They pay, just so they don't wait and be delayed at the end.
This does not prevent waiting, but certainly shortens processes and time.
And the most important thing is the bottom line - his, and everyone's in fact.
"I make X pastries a day. Can't do any more. When they're gone, they're gone," he says the obvious, "Oh, and if you want morning pastries at six in the evening, maybe it's not such a good idea to begin with. It's a morning food. He At its peak during these hours, why would you want a croissant in the evening when you're tired, and you'll be angry with me? You get up at eight in the morning and go eat a steak? I'm completely fine that at half past twelve there's nothing left. That's the way it should be."
A Hebrew folk song.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
"Because no one knew what would happen and what was expected, I still remember that at nine I ordered a security guard with a weapon to stand at the entrance"
The war caught him awake, of course, preparing as usual for another day at the bakery.
Our 6:29 in the morning is not his 6:29.
"We immediately understood that it was something big, obviously," he repeated, "and because no one knew what would happen and what was expected, I still remember ordering a security guard with a weapon at nine to stand at the entrance."
The security guard is not required to work after all.
"When the information started coming in, we closed right away. I sent a message to the kibbutz to come pick up pastries, and we went home."
That message led to Martello neighbors he had never seen, or ones he had only seen with a very sour and very angry face.
on him
Kibbutzim, as well as bakeries, build complex relationships.
the great north
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
It was a smooth move, except for the oven and the rolling pin of course
The protracted fighting bent Matarlo into what is known in Israeli parlance as "the north".
I mean, dangerous.
In practice, there were no alarms there and the road to Peretz's crossing did not pass through any checkpoints or checkpoints - neither by the IDF nor by the enemy. It didn't change much, obviously. The Israelis gathered in their homes, first in anxiety and then in panic, and even when the soul allowed them to leave, they didn't made it possible to go so far.
That Saturday concluded a rather mediocre northern year, which was also affected by the struggle over the nature of Israeli democracy. There were waves, and the holiday period that ended in disaster marked a certain comeback, but the direction was clear, and in any case in the last months most of his customers were soldiers.
Thus, at an event for the producers of the south and the north, the connection to Sharona Market deepened, and the roots of this large pop-up were planted. It was a smooth process, except for the oven and the rolling pin of course.
When the weights are released.
Peretz/Wala! system, Yaniv Granot
This transport story is exciting, full of twists in the plot and above all funny, because there is no Israeli business without some day when everyone deals with two cm that don't get through the door
Peretz brought a large team of six female employees and two male employees down to Tel Aviv with him, and housed them in two apartments, twenty or so floors up.
He himself located a place in Migdal Sharona itself, and meets the private family every week, for about half a week, before they return north again.
He also brought down with him the mythical oven of Matarello, and the huge rolling pin without which there is probably no croissant.
This transport story is exciting, full of twists in the plot and above all funny, because there is no Israeli business without some day when everyone deals with two centimeters that don't go through the door. Peretz points out exactly the problematic point in the space, adds hand gestures of dismantling and tells how he called the CEO, who is in the army There was his brigadier general and he was his liaison, recalls the team of the market who were not moved by 400 kg of oven and mainly represses the question, and the answer, which are really important now.
"You want to know what will happen when we also have to leave here at the end of the month," he says bluntly, "Let's get there and see."
A scratched anchor.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
The menu is relatively tight compared to the original, but gets wilder as the Tel Aviv humidity settles on the arms and palms.
There are savory ones on the level of croissant sandwiches only, including anchors such as scratchy croissants and Camembert croissants, and talk is getting stronger about good things that come down from the Golan Heights and strengthen the collection - from special mushrooms to trout matters, from caviar to wasabi.
Peretz's original plan was also to take a walk in the market and draw inspiration, and this collaboration is indeed happening, with growing and strengthening ambitions.
"We were received here amazingly," he shares, "Stand and restaurant owners and food people spoil us and take care of us, which is fun to see and fun to feel."
Long dwell time.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
This creation is sweet only in idea, and holds a real aroma of real earth.
It's not a bakery, it's a tinder account
Sweets, on the other hand, do not need reinforcement.
Maybe to that security guard who wasn't working at the end on October 7th.
A Basque cheesecake, brown and bitter on top and creamy-creamy everywhere else, a fat but upright striped croissant, filled with milk chocolate and tonka, and also a square, multi-layered pastry, which brutally works to tear a small hole out of its center (these scraps are the strongest traded currency in the back kitchen, and there I have hard documents that prove it), and pour into it whitish-yellowish vanilla cream, dotted with truffles.
This creation is sweet only in idea, and holds a real aroma of real earth.
It's not a bakery, it's a tinder account.
There is also an open rhombus with vanilla pâtissier cream and hazelnut praline, another friend with the same pâtissier and a tall hill of strawberries and pistachio praline, the well-known engineering triangle of Metrello that hides caramelized white chocolate, an equally engineered rectangle with a thick sprinkling of coffee crema and honey, Croissant C Andouia, a buttery representative that is empty only in appearance and in fact everything that is needed, a snail that holds white jandouia, milk chocolate and olive oil pâtissier cream as well as cocoa crumble and hazelnuts, a round pastry with a generous spoonful of Israeli vanilla whipped cream and also a Hebrew hymn, in the form of dough and cream, Rose jelly cubes and colorful edible flowers.
And among these people are required to choose.
Anyone else having problems with the queue?
The rebellious embrace.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
I'm only asking for the record, but the answer is obvious.
This is his place, this is his dough, only a few are allowed in.
Virtue units can also touch
Almost four years after the opening, Sundays still provide to break through the most difficult hours of the week.
He calls it a "voltage drop", but what he describes lies more in the categories of a voltage increase, not to mention a surge.
The head hurts, the stomach twists and the thoughts wander as dark as possible.
Yes, even now he wonders if they will come, and if they will like it.
In the middle of Sunday, every Sunday in fact, those weights are released from his shoulders and allow him to move again.
Until Monday morning, it will be impossible to recognize this whirlwind, and all that will dance in front of the eyes is its contagious energy - ovens and trays, problems and solutions.
Here and there a funny shout, and a smile too.
A lot of these.
At one point, he cuts to the interior of the bakery, and embraces - metaphorically but also somewhat practically - with the rebel.
He takes out a huge ball of dough that I'm pretty sure says "tomorrow's turn" on it, and gets to work.
Back and forth, back and forth, with stops only to embed another drawn and grandiose card in the thickness of butter.
I'm only asking for the record, but the answer is obvious.
This is his place, this is his dough, only a few are allowed in.
Virtue units can also touch.
The election campaign is underway.
Metrello/Walla system!, Yaniv Granot
His days in Tel Aviv start early of course, around five, and end around six in the evening.
Winter time and working hours make the big city then nothing more than a concept, and mainly a platform for a comfortable couch in front of the TV, and a bed.
In between, he gets up and enjoys the offer and availability, jumps to "Ivy" by the Doctor brothers ("I found a very good connection there") and also cheers for Yossi Shetrit's "Hiva" (the highest there is, but also the most unbroken, how does he manage to do A decorated Cuba, will you be fine?"), and then again to "Ivy", because why not, really?
The next day, he will once again turn on switches in the electrical panel that complicates the entire team here, will wink at the red shirt of Hapoel Beer Sheva that was hung on the wall here before even a single crumb Touched the floor, and will make morning coffee. He arrived.
Metrello pop-up, Sharona Market, Monday-Saturday (but not Sunday!), 8:00 until sold out (and sold out fast!), all the way through March 22
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