Last November, Morgane, 42, was spotted by Instagram parisiensinparis.
Special feature: she was perched on 10 cm tapered ankle boots, thus contrasting with the other Parisians displayed on the wall of the account, most of them in sneakers, flat sandals or ballerinas.
Flood of comments: “it’s so rare to see stiletto heels in the street”, “beautiful”, “dated”, “cool”… One thing is certain: the high heel leaves no one indifferent.
A few months ago, Catherine Deneuve also spoke in the columns of Le
Figaro
:
“What surprises me the most when I drive by is that no woman wears heels anymore!
If today I have moccasins that are more practical for walking in a department store, I wear pumps if I go to a party.”
But where have the heels gone?
Dethroned by basketball, destroyed by the Covid-19 crisis and devastated by certain new feminist impulses?
No doubt, but the latter have more than one trick in their centimeters.
Shunned for several years, they are on the rise again and some women are still resisting the dish.
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Moreover, according to the French Shoe Federation, French women, in 2022, preferred medium and high heels (58%) to flat and small heels (42%).
Like a need to regain some height after all these confinements spent in UGG?
“We attribute a lot of changes to the health crisis, but above all it made us realize that we do not dress for ourselves but for others,” analyzes Denis Bruna, chief curator in the fashion and textile department of the Museum of Arts. decorative.
And if the heel was rightly shunned during the confinements, in view of its long history it remains a constant in women's shoes, and above all a synonym of elegance and femininity.
However, this was not always the case since, initially, these were invented for men, for Persian horsemen, precisely, to allow them to wedge their shoes in the stirrups.
They were then synonymous with nobility and distinction in the West, both among men and women, the former gradually abandoning it at the end of the 17th century.
In the 1950s, stilettos appeared and became, in the eighties, the attribute of powerful femininity
.
“If we have long imposed them in certain professions,” continues Denis Bruna, “they are no longer synonymous with constraint today, because in the West, women have great freedom of dress.
So if they decide to wear high heels in 2024, it’s by choice!”
There is therefore no point in attributing to them any retrograde spirit in the face of the progress of a much more comfortable dish.
What does Christian Louboutin, the undeniable emperor of the stiletto on a red sole, think?
“Yes, comfort is important, but putting it on a pedestal is not the highest level of civilization, or else let's ask people to be in their pajamas all day!” he told us.
Knowing how to hold yourself, gain height, maintain self-awareness and the possibility of rigor is not a negative concept.
And then heels, apart from the fact that they enhance the legs, also reduce the pace of a day in a society where we always have to run faster.
“They curiously bring a certain sweetness to life,” concludes the greatest shoemaker.
Caroline Roux, political journalist: “I like to push my femininity to the extreme”
Caroline Roux, political journalist and television host, notably presents
C dans l'air
on France 5. Stpéhane Grangier-FTV
How did your story with heels begin?
I don't have any memories of myself without heels, because even before I was old enough to wear them, I always walked on tiptoes, which made those close to me laugh a lot.
Your first memorable pair?
A pair of Christian Louboutins, sublime, in navy blue patent, 12 cm heel, a gift from my husband.
Are they part of your signature?
Totally.
I have always worn stiletto heels, 10 cm high.
Since the very beginning of my career as a political journalist, I have assumed the responsibility of portraying them, sitting on a high stool.
I thought it produced a nice graphic silhouette.
There was also a somewhat militant side on my part in showing my femininity in a world that was intended to be masculine.
And even when I was a radio reporter and I ran with my Nagra recorder, I was perched on glittery stilettos.
I loved the noise they made in the street.
Heels, hindrance or freedom to be?
It is first of all a choice, to wear it or not, and a desire.
I never imposed them on myself and no one forced me to wear them, especially not masculine codes.
I'm not trying to be taller than my 1.63m either, but rather I like to push my femininity to the extreme.
What do they bring to femininity?
A particular gait, an uprightness, a posture, a form of grace, and also strength.
Who are your worst enemies in high heels?
Floor heating grills.
Once, I arrived at the Ministry of Justice to interview Rachida Dati, then Keeper of the Seals.
I run, I'm late and I get a heel stuck in the brass gate.
Unable to remove the latter, I presented myself before the minister barefoot, with a shoe in my hand.
Can a woman's attractiveness be linked to the height of her shoes?
You should ask the men.
I have the impression that it's a bit of a cliché of my generation and that young girls today no longer follow these codes at all.
They go out, in lovely dresses, with lots of makeup, but with Jordans on their feet!
I'm quite amazed to see how Gen Z is appropriating and having fun with the dish.
Could you give up on your heels?
Today, if I run all over Paris, it's in sneakers!
On the other hand, it wouldn't occur to me to produce a show or go out without heels.
Your favorite pairs?
Chloé sandals in 10 cm black python that I wore during my interview with Emmanuel Macron, on July 14, and the Kandice sandals by Ralph Lauren, with this ankle strap that I love.
What do you think of the advent of the dish?
The daily heel imposed on women who are on their feet ten hours a day is no longer possible.
My mother, for example, who was a hairdresser, suffered greatly from being asked to wear high heels at the start of her career.
One day, she sent them flying, and since then has only worn Birkenstocks.
But be careful, today, let's not oppose feminism and heels, because true feminism is above all the freedom to choose what you want to wear.
And me, personally, I will never let go of my stilettos.
Caroline Roux notably presents the show
C dans l'air
on France 5 and will host five special evenings on the European elections on France 2 between April and June.
Comfort is important, but putting it on a pedestal is not the highest level of civilization, or else let's ask people to be in their pajamas all day!
Christian Louboutin
Camille Razat, actress: “Tools of power that we choose (or not) to wear”
The actress Camille Razat, known in particular for playing the role of Camille in
Emily in Paris.
Etienne Baret
How did your story with heels begin?
At 15 when I started modeling.
Since I'm short, I'm 1.68m tall, I wore heels to all my castings to feel more confident.
It was the 2010s, and at that time heels were definitely mandatory.
I have the impression that today, modeling agencies are more flexible on the subject.
I see more and more people who embrace their singularities and the fact of being flat.
Your first pair?
Black pumps that shouldn't have cost me much, because I was 15 and didn't have a lot of money.
Have you always been perched?
Young, yes, because I wanted to be more “feminine.”
And if I'm going on a date, I like to wear heels because it's sexy.
But today, in everyday life, it's more chunky boots or square heels.
I prioritize comfort because I am always high up in my professional life.
For the series
Emily in Paris
, for example, my character being a glamorous gallery owner, I very often wear stiletto heels or, more rarely, platforms.
I admit that sometimes it's tiring, especially with the good old Parisian cobblestones.
What are your signature shoe types?
Roger Vivier pumps of at least 12 or 10 cm, they are also very comfortable.
Heels, hindrance or freedom to be?
Above all, they are tools of power that we choose (or not) to carry.
What do they bring to femininity?
They impose a certain stature, an appearance.
And personally, when I show up in heels, it’s also to assume a femme fatale side.
Who are your worst enemies in high heels?
The ventilation grilles.
I remember a heel getting stuck just before a casting.
I had to run out and buy other shoes.
Is a woman's attractiveness linked to the height of her shoes?
Not at all, maybe it's a male point of view, because, in my opinion, you can like wearing heels for yourself.
Your favorite shoes?
Roger Vivier.
When I started my collaboration with this house – Camille Razat has been an ambassador for the brand since 2020 – I understood that heels were not synonymous with torture.
Their models are as elegant as they are extravagant, there is something for everyone.
What do you think of the advent of the dish?
Women undoubtedly reject heels because they have been forced to wear them for so long, particularly in professions such as secretary, flight attendant, shop assistant... Fashion is also adapting even if I think that There will always be heels on the catwalks, because they create a particular approach.
But I notice that certain actresses like Jennifer Lawrence or Kristen Stewart today completely accept being flat on the red carpets.
In any case, feeling beautiful is a state of mind and not a question of the height of your heels.
We will soon find Camille Razat in season 4 of
Emily in Paris
and in
Prodigieuses,
by Frédéric and Valentin Potier.
Cindy Bruna, supermodel: “The higher the heels, the more confident I feel”
The model Cindy Bruna, parades notably for Jean-Paul Gaultier, Pierre Balmain, and Elie Saab.
Getty Images
How did your story with heels begin?
As a child, whenever my mother's back was turned, I loved trying on her shoes.
Heels obsessed me.
I created a whole world with it, I became a rock star or a top model on its catwalk.
Your first memorable pair?
It was during my first casting for Azzedine Alaïa, I was 16 years old, I didn't know how to walk on heels.
I bought myself 12 cm black ankle boots that I wore all day, even when doing housework, and little by little these shoes became like slippers.
And I passed the casting!
Have you always been perched?
As a teenager, I became the tallest in school, I was very self-conscious about my size, I only wore flats, until I arrived in Paris as a model.
I loved heels on others, but I forbade myself.
Fashion allowed me to express myself, accept my 1.83 m and unabashedly reconnect with my love of heels.
Are they part of your signature?
Yes, especially the 12 cm stiletto heel that I wear today with pride on many occasions.
The higher it is, the more comfortable I feel.
I met young girls who were self-conscious about their tall height, like me as a teenager, and they told me that seeing me wear high heels made them want to wear them again and take responsibility for them.
Heels, hindrance or freedom to be?
It all depends on whether they are worn by choice or desire.
Personally, allowing myself heels, despite my tallness, liberated me.
What do they bring to femininity?
A boost of self-confidence!
It's like when we apply a pretty lipstick or wear an accessory that we like.
From this feeling of assurance comes an allure, a charisma.
What's more beautiful than a woman who feels beautiful (with or without heels).
Who are your worst enemies in high heels?
Dancefloors, because I love dancing, and I admit that sometimes, after a few hours, I send them flying.
Can a woman's attractiveness be linked to the height of her heels?
This has nothing to do with.
I have always found the association of high heels and femme fatale negative and degrading.
As if they were only intended for men and, moreover, to seduce and trap them…
Your fondest memory on stilettos?
My first Victoria's Secret fashion show was magical.
It's a show where you can walk with great confidence on 12 cm heels or more, express yourself, smile, wink... I was only 18 and I will remember it all my life.
Heels reduce the pace of a day in a society where we always have to run faster.
They curiously bring a certain sweetness to life
Christian Louboutin
Your favorite pairs?
Louboutin's So Kate pumps with their sky-high heels are by far my favorite, which I take with me on all my trips.
And I wear them on the red carpet as well as for simple meetings.
They are timeless and go with everything.
It truly is the essential pair for any wardrobe.
What do you think of the advent of the dish?
Since the crises linked to the Coronavirus, we are increasingly looking for comfort.
Heels have a lot of quality, but not this one!
I also think that thanks to new feminist movements, women feel less obliged to wear them.
Today, they have the freedom to choose between flats and heels, without it influencing the judgment of others.
Farida Khelfa, ex-top model, actress and director: “Heels were synonymous with my Parisian emancipation”
Farida Khelfa, ex-top model, actress and director, notably of the television documentary
Louboutin
in 2014. Claudio Lavenia / Getty Images
How did your story with heels begin?
I adopted heels as soon as I arrived in Paris, at the age of 16.
It was Christian Louboutin, then aged 15, who gave me my first pair of red stilettos that he had bought in London.
I wore them until I wore them out, the heels gradually turning into peeled bananas.
But I immediately had a passion for them and instantly knew how to walk with them.
Was your mother more into pumps, sneakers or moccasins?
She was flat all the time.
My mother had nine children.
She didn't wear makeup, never wore heels, she was very strict.
Have you always been perched?
Mostly, yes, but I also really like men's shoes.
At home, it's either stiletto pumps or Golf Weston, no in-between, never half-measures.
Heels, hindrance or freedom to be?
It is a barrier that gives freedom.
Personally, heels were synonymous with my Parisian emancipation.
But I admit that it is difficult to walk for a long time with it.
I don't do anything to myself, I try to be gentle with myself.
What do they bring to femininity?
I find that they finish a silhouette nicely and give an indefinable touch, both terribly feminine and strongly masculine.
Power, in short.
Who are your worst enemies in high heels?
The cobblestone streets and air vents.
In particular, I left several pairs of heels in the huge metro grate located in front of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris.
As a result, I came home barefoot.
Can a woman's attractiveness be linked to the height of her heels?
No, because men just have to behave.
And today, heels are no longer associated with clichés such as that of the femme fatale.
Above all, they give height and allow you to assert yourself.
Could you fail them?
Of course, I recently broke my kneecap and was flat for six months.
I wore sneakers for the first time.
I actually felt pretty good.
I saw the danger.
It's like jogging, once you try it, you get a taste for it... So as soon as I could, I switched back to heels.
Your favorite pairs?
My Christian Louboutins, of course.
But I also really like the creations of Amina Muaddi, who offers something different in a field where everything seems to have been done.
I also have a pair of Alaïa sandals with a zip at the back that will never leave my side.
They are crazy elegant.
What do you think of the advent of the dish?
Even in the 1980s, I didn't see many heels on the street.
I already looked like a UFO on my stilettos.
The advent of sneakers caused them to drop significantly as well, but they will come back, because fashion is a cycle.
And then, it's always interesting to see how the new generations behave.
There are those who claim to be ultra-feminine and feminist at the same time, those who no longer want to remove their hair, others who refuse the dictates of fashion... Everyone invents a style, in their own way, with or without heels.
Farida Khelfa is the author of
A French Childhood,
Ed.
Albin Michel.
Carine Roitfeld, stylist and fashion editor: “You completely change your personality with heels”
Stylist and fashion editor Carine Roitfeld.
Manuel Lagos CID/Paris Match/Scoop
How did your story with heels begin?
At the age of 40, one day I found myself face to face with Mario Testino.
He is very big and I felt fragile.
At the time, I was most often in flat boots.
So I instantly switched to very high heels, 11 cm – today, I went down to 9 cm – and I completely changed my silhouette.
I felt that the latter gave me power, and above all that I had the means to put myself on the same level as the men to speak to them.
Are they part of your signature today?
Completely.
When I joined
Vogue
magazine as editor-in-chief, I adopted a uniform: pencil skirt, men's T-shirt or shirt and heels.
I created a character for myself.
You completely change your personality with heels.
I never left mine again.
Fortunately, otherwise we also spend our lives redoing the length of our hems.
Heels, hindrance or freedom to be
?
You can feel fragile in heels, twisting your ankle, for example, this happened to me several times, but frankly, when you emerge somewhere with height, you feel much stronger.
You still have to know how to wear them so as not to look ridiculous.
Models who stumble every step of the way on the catwalk, for example, are pathetic.
The girls perched on dizzying heels photographed by Helmut Newton knew how to move perfectly and really had presence.
What do they bring to femininity?
Pretty legs, slender ankles.
I also like the noise they make when you walk down the street.
On the other hand, when you are sitting in a skirt and heels, it is imperative to always cross your legs.
When photographers shout
uncross your legs
at us on the front rows of fashion shows, I never obey!
Who are your worst enemies in high heels?
The cobbled streets!
During Fashion Week, if I can't avoid them, I look straight ahead and don't talk to anyone.
Can a woman's attractiveness be linked to the height of her heels?
Yes, I find it more attractive, a woman in heels.
But you have to know how to measure your outfit so as not to appear vulgar.
What works well is the masculine-feminine mix.
A beautiful man's coat with stilettos, for example.
Your favorite pairs?
I have always been comfortable in my Manolo Blahniks.
I also really like Gianvito Rossi.
As for the pointed black pumps from Saint Laurent, they are exceptional.
I also wore Alaïa sandals for a long time that I loved, with laces that went high on the leg.
What do you think of the advent of the dish?
When I ran
Vogue
France, I banned the wearing of UGGs in winter and flip-flops in summer.
It really is, for me, the beginning of the end.
Comfort has become a dominant concern for women today.
I understand them, especially those who sometimes have to travel two hours to get to their office.
On the other hand, I still don't understand the sneaker phenomenon, even for men.
I find it very naughty, but I must be the only one since everyone wears them!
Carine Roitfeld is founder and editor-in-chief of
CR Fashion Book
magazine .