It was a magical moment: once we left the town of Lezama behind, we had to pay attention.
With the car loaded with suitcases and hopes heading to Mar del Plata, as soon as we crossed the Salado River, my dad said “Now!”
Then I stretched my neck, to the right and to the left, with my gaze fixed on the giant trees until a target became clear in the forest and
an imposing reddish silhouette with a tower
appeared .
“I saw it!” I shouted, happy to have seen “the castle on Route 2.”
How many times was this scene repeated on the way to the family vacation?
All.
For this reason, memories come in thousands on this summer Sunday and the expectation grows
in crescendo
as my friends and I approach
Km 168 of Highway 2, in the district of Castelli
, province of Buenos Aires.
The plan?
Enjoy a traditional picnic at
Estancia La Raquel
, that is, in the castle on Route 2!
According to the tourism program, the gate opens at 11:30, with the promise of a day “in contact with nature, history and typical Argentine foods.”
After a welcome coffee, we walk through the gardens and the large pool area, without going too far because we can already see movement around the outdoor tables and the grill.
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A place full of legends
We reached the shore of the Salado, on one side of the fields planted with sunflowers, in the heart of the former Paso del Villar: the river was flat enough here to allow horses and carts to cross, in years when There was no road and no bridge.
Precisely, around 1870 the place functioned as a post to rest for a few hours and continue the journey.
The field, the trees and the pool next to Felicitas Guerrero's family castle.
Photo Estancia La Raquel
The history of the ranch is intertwined with the family of
Felicitas Guerrero (1846-1872)
, a young woman from Buenos Aires high society, widow, heir to lands and properties, and
victim of one of the first known femicides in Argentina
.
“After Felicitas' death, these lands passed into the hands of her brother Manuel Guerrero.
The castle dates back to Felicitas
: he built the town and married Raquel Cárdenas, at a time when it was customary to name the rooms after the woman.
They had four children: Marta, Manolo, Valeria and my grandfather Luis,” says Cecilia Guerrero, Felicitas' great-grandniece.
In turn, she is married to the nephew of Juan Pablo Russo, who was the husband of Valeria, the last heir of the place.
The foundation
Currently, Cecilia and her husband work with their children for the ranch and the “Manuel Guerrero, Juan Pablo Russo and Valeria Guerrero Cárdenas de Russo Foundation”, a non-profit institution committed to the development of culture, activities solidarity and sustainable agricultural production.
The Foundation provided support to develop a 3,000 m2 demonstration production station in Abasto, through the hydroponics method to grow plants: it works through the dissolution of minerals in water instead of using land as in traditional agriculture.
In turn, in 2021 it donated the comprehensive equipment that allowed the Castelli hospital to incorporate the neonatology service, unique in the La Plata - Mar del Plata corridor.
Benefit events linked to culture are also held, sessions on landscape botany and the raising of chickens and gardens - for own consumption - serve as a demonstration tool to transmit sustainable management under circular economy guidelines.
Field day at La Raquel ranch, in Castelli.
Photo Diana Pazos
The story of Felicitas
Considered in her time as “the most beautiful woman in Argentina,” Felicitas Guerrero had to marry Martín de Alzaga, who was 32 years older than her (she was 18; he was 50), because her parents arranged the marriage only taking into account his fortune.
Their married life was difficult, since they had two children and both died: one of them died at the age of 3, a victim of yellow fever and the other died shortly after giving birth, the day after being widowed.
Heir to the entire fortune, she eventually fell in love with Samuel Sáenz Valiente, and chose the family mansion in Barracas to announce her marriage.
When the big day arrived, Enrique Ocampo (future great-uncle of the writers Victoria and Silvina Ocampo) appeared, a suitor who had always been in love with her.
And upon verifying that she was indeed going to marry Sáenz Valiente, he shot her in the back.
Felicita died the next day, a victim of femicide.
Past and present
Since its beginning, the castle had different stages of construction, beginning as the residence and workplace of Manuel Guerrero.
Cecilia says: “It was designed with two floors:
in the basement with the service part, then came the living room and dining room, and upstairs, the bedrooms
.
Towards the beginning of the 20th century, it became fashionable to add a tower to houses, as they did in the United States.”
All this was proposed in 1894 and had extensions.
Although the property is close to 400 hectares in total, the park is 80 hectares and was designed by the Danish landscape designer Frederic Forkel, a contemporary of Carlos Thays.
The castle's façade has already been restored and the interior is being finished.
Photo Estancia La Raquel
After years of repairs, the ranch reopened its doors in 2023 to share its history and its architectural and natural beauty.
“We decided to recondition the interior and exterior of the castle - which was deteriorated -, with the idea of it functioning as a boutique hotel.
The works are advanced.
And when the façade was finished we reopened for picnics,” he explains.
Cecilia highlights that her intention is for the room to maintain its identity, remain familiar and for visitors to see how the past is intertwined with the present thanks to their family history.
All this is also part of the country's history: Manuel had some 40,000 hectares affected by production since 1888, with advanced techniques, he was a precursor of the dairy industry in the Salado Basin and shipped 18 thousand liters by train to Buenos Aires. daily from Guerrero Station.
"The butter, cheese and cream factory was also created, and with her brothers, they brought the Aberdeen Angus breed to Argentina," says Cecilia and remembers that her relatives promoted the creation of Pinamar, Ostende and Valeria del Mar. In fact, The name is after her great aunt Valeria, Felicitas' aunt.
Unique experience
All this is explained in the historical visit and botanical tour that are organized at the ranch after lunch under the trees.
Roast, vacuum, matambre and bondiola, the traditional picnic menu.
Photo Diana Pazos
La Raquel today offers a unique experience.
From traditional picnics with barbecue to varied gastronomic proposals with guest chefs, social and business events.
During the reception, dips to spread on toast, meat empanadas and lemonade are served.
As an appetizer, choricitos al pan, matambritos and bondiola are offered.
The main course is roast, vacuum and a variety of salads;
and the dessert, mixed flan.
At snack there are infusions, puddings and pasta frola.
And if ordered with a reservation, there are TACC-free and vegetarian menus.
It must be taken into account that the picnic is organized on some Sundays of each month that are announced on Instagram (@laraquelestancia) and the proposals vary (the traditional menu with barbecue is not always served).
The next one is scheduled for 3/24, and costs $34,000 per person;
and the children's menu, $17,000.