Off the calendar, as always, Hedi Slimane unveiled his Celine show this Tuesday, a week after the end of Paris Fashion Week.
The collection was designed in July and filmed in Paris in December.
Name of the film: “The Arc de Triomphe Collection”.
This is a first clue that refers to the founder of the house and the logo that has become the label's emblem.
Flashback: in 1971, Céline Vipiana found herself on the Place de l'Etoile after a car breakdown.
She then leans against the chain surrounding the Arc de Triomphe and notices the decorative link.
The latter will become the house logo.
In 2018, Hedi Slimane redesigned it with a modernist approach and named it Triomphe.
So be it.
Celine winter 2024 show: the Arc de Triomphe Collection
Ex-fan of the sixties
The action is taking place today in Paris, in four high places in the capital: the Bourdelle Museum, the Maison de la Chimie (where Hedi Slimane presented his first Saint Laurent men's show in 1997), at the Museum of Decorative Arts and at the Pleyel room.
The film opens with a music box with cinematic notes - a soundtrack by the young artist Mélanie Chédeville - then continues in the rotunda of the Salle Pleyel between white columns and hypnotic mirrors.
Welcome to the 1960s, revisited by the artistic director in a pure black and white of stunning chic.
First passage: a girl, hair pulled back, in a perfectly cut black minidress, triple rows of white pearls, black glasses, Mary Janes and a small tone-on-tone black bag held with her fingertips.
The whole collection plays the same refrain, no pants this season, miniskirts (very mini) in leather, wool, silk or jersey appear on coordinated jackets, under turtlenecks, and patent boots on the feet.
Celine winter 2024 show Hedi Slimane
Modern baby doll
It's a collection which tells both the first steps on the Moon and the emancipation of women, which also highlights the whole Slimane grammar, this mix of bourgeois women and insolent young girls, whose refined wardrobe is still close to the heights of the luxury.
During the day, these young ladies wear leather jackets with leopard print on the shoulders as well as short coats with Peter Pan collars or chasubles with turtlenecks.
Then they go out in the evening in sequined trapeze dresses or embroidered with feathers or golden stones.
Maxiboules of black or white faux fur warm their bare legs and high baseball caps protect them from the rain.
These New Wave heroines, always hidden behind their big square black glasses, have a very “
sharp
” couture look without any embellishments.
But the Triomphe logo is there, very present this season, both on the small retro-style square bags and on the headwear, glasses and shoes.
First beauty line
The film ends with beauties with long, “Twiggy”-style eyelashes putting on makeup in front of a hairdresser.
A sequence shot which serves as the basis for launching a new chapter of the house.
That of the creation of its first beauty line, including the lipstick, the aptly named Rouge Triomphe, which will be unveiled in preview next fall.
The models in the show are wearing La Peau Nue, a natural pink which is one of the 15 shades of the collection which will be launched in 2025. Zoom in also on the new perfume of the house called Zouzou, the name given to the cheeky young girls of the
sixties
.
The circle is complete.