Bread Club Bakery, Tel Aviv/Yaniv Garnot
Two long decades in front of Rabin Square have turned Cafe Landover at the intersection of Ibn Gvirol and David Hamelech streets into a corner that knows how to properly diagnose Tel Aviv and its people, and is also very familiar with the urban air and spirit.
The endless days of dust and excavations that surround this intersection in recent years have not damaged this barometric ability.
on the contrary.
The corner still feels the pulse of the city very well, listens to the pedestrians and passengers and does not stop characterizing even now what is needed for them most of all - clean air, obviously, and a clear and energetic urban spirit, renewed.
And carbs too.
Carbohydrates of a coup.
What is needed now.
Bradclub
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The relatively new Bard Club, which was located at this very spot just a few weeks ago, and after many weeks of renovation and question marks from passers-by, is trying to respond to all these needs - a street that is learning to walk itself again and people are returning to walk on it, chairs to stop their steps and gusts of air that return the the soul.
Opposite, the square is not there yet, and certainly has not completely aligned with the intentions and ambitions and plans.
But everything else is, and in a distinct way - bread and bread people, bakers who put a small but determined foot in the barrier of corruption, and one constant Tomer.
Northern duty stop
An amazing wall of fire and flesh, and the one who knows best how to handle them
To the full article
load.
Bradclub/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
A foot in the door of corruption.
Bradclub/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
"Yes, there was a tension between such an industrial size and our ambition for artisanal, but it is a tension that we try to balance every day, and even leverage it for our needs"
This bread club is the third of the stations of a new Israeli chain, under the wings of Landover, which of course refused to give up this location, which is also its historic, and symbolic, opening point.
According to Dafna Rosenzweig Ben-Ezra, the group's marketing director, this is the fulfillment of an old dream of its owners.
"A few years ago, he got tired of depending on our bread suppliers," she repeated, "and he decided to establish an independent bakery."
It describes "strengths" and "capabilities", lists 65 branches of the giant parent network, and at the same time answers my next question, even before it is formulated on the air.
"Yes, there was a tension between such an industrial size and our ambition for artisanal, but it is a tension that we try to balance every day, and even leverage it for our needs," she explained, "to use the power and scope of such an enterprise to create a national bakery chain, each of its points knows how to give Correct answer, local and neighborhood".
the fulfillment of the dream.
Bradclub/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
Her face, and that of the group, is already turning to the development of hope and the rooting of 35 branches within three years, but this size, this pace, does not cast a shadow on the everyday
And so, he had a Redclub in Rishon Lezion about a year ago, and two more joined him in Tel Aviv (the flagship branch on the square and a more intimate place, a little north of there, on Nordau Boulevard in the city).
"We really want to provide differentiated solutions for each branch," she explained, "our new bakery, for example, has a lovely local-neighborhood envelope, a hysterical percentage of repeat customers and fun exits such as a children's sandwich on chocolate spread and colorful candies, which we discovered the magic of in the afternoon , while the children are being collected from the frameworks".
Her face, and that of the group, is already turning to the development of hope and the rooting of 35 branches within three years, but this size, this pace, does not cast a shadow on everyday life.
"We simply wanted to produce what we like, and look for what we can contribute in a category that is clearly not empty," she explained, "we built a young, cool and up-to-date brand, and we led a huge group that only knew how to think about coffee, then start thinking about food, and now think bakery. We We're not stopping. We're moving."
"Don't stop. Move."
Bradclub/Noam Frisman
"I always thought about the cooks and not necessarily about my fulfillment and that the world will burn"
Amadi listens to all this, nods, and occasionally bursts out, making it very clear how upset he is.
He gets up, goes in and out of the kitchen, arranges shelves and takes hot pastries off even hotter pans, then sits back in the chair.
It is an engine, a combustion engine.
He grew up in Jerusalem, moved to "Mol Yam" and "Shila", became sous-chef of "Mechanioda" and remained with the mighty group from the capital for about a decade, while heading its pioneer team abroad that opened with the "Palomar" restaurant in London. From there, he He went through other intriguing projects on the continent, until he was called to flag, and became the culinary director of the new group.
"All along the way, I tried very hard to stay away from a place that attached an ego to the chefs," he said, "I was always thinking about the cooks and not necessarily about my fulfillment and that the world would burn.
That way, you find out you can do crazy things."
Ibn-Gbiroli volcano.
stand
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"The worst thing for an artist is to stand in front of a blank canvas. Here they put limits on me, but within those limits I know how to bring the twist"
This challenge, however, raises fundamental questions almost immediately.
Amadi knows.
"I'm a big believer in frames, and I think that they can actually encourage creativity. In my opinion, the worst thing for an artist is to stand in front of a blank canvas. Here they put limits on me, but within those limits I know how to bring the twist."
This twist, or the extra as he defines his role, is an extremely talented hand that works within the same lines, but wow, how invisible those lines are in Bradclub.
This is also the automatic answer to the automatic question - network, yes.
And also tasty and cool, yes loud and clear.
Not the network you thought.
Bradclub/Walla! system, Yaniv Granot
Amadi's extra menu is, as its name suggests, its touch on all things grab-and-go around, on coffee and pastry and their carbohydrate-corrupt friends in their own right.
It includes a dozen bread-based dishes (no mah) dedicated and adapted, which drew inspiration from around the world and received a blue ID card with its help.
The order at the cash register, the serving while seated, and with the plates also comes, at the expense of the house, a surprised facial expression, of "I didn't expect this at a branch of", which is a great facial expression after all.
One of the best we have.
There's panzanella and mozzarella salad with Kalamata olive sourdough bread, a very visual and very fun lettuce head salad, with grain sourdough and a light but tangy Caesar dressing, wonderful avocado toast from "African bread" that naturally rests on the green-yellow creaminess a perfectionist poached egg, and also a cheese sandwich Cheddar with avocado, chipotle aioli, potato chips, smoked mozzarella, tomato, lettuce and onion-blush aioli.
Apart from them, there is also a tall "Halumi Burger", a Roman artichoke "Rite" sandwich made from dried tomato sourdough bread and thyme, another bruschetta toast, which breaks up a Caesar salad and rearranges it, better, a croissant ("sahron" as they are called here) with an egg From scratched ceramic and reconstructed pudding, and received in return berry jam and peanut butter ice cream.
Visual, and fun.
Breadclub salad/Walla! system, will generate profits
And all around, a celebration - breads of course, but also beetroot rolls and milk rolls and turmeric rolls, pretzels and pretzels, spelled challah and Shabbat challah.
The display changes frequently, depending on the time and pace.
It will have focaccia with berries on top and chocolate rose, caramel toffee pastry and Danish ricotta and blueberries, strawberry and cream croissant and one with pistachio pâtissier, crunch cakes and cookies, chocolate brownies and salty miritozzo, with smoked salmon and cream, onion bagel with cheddar or gouda, sandwiches Scrambled and truffle butter to take away, sandwich bites with beets and brie cheese, puffs and cheesecakes, chocolate square and biscuits.
And also in chushans - magnum pistachio, carrot, coffee or chocolate - and pudding, necessary bottles of wine and flowers, some tahini and olive oil, showcase cakes and an elaborate collection of salads, baccarats and toasts.
And Rosalach.
How is it possible without mountains?
celebration.
Salted maritsu from Bradclub/Walla! system, will yield profits
Amadi shines, insists on "hand touching" each of the tens of thousands of loaves that go into the factory's ovens and increases the volume when the talk about "Rustic" begins.
"There is no automation here," he emphasizes, "food must look as if a human made it. Otherwise it is also much less tasty."
For him, this connection is not limiting, but liberating, almost liberating.
"Bread is the most basic thing there is, and the dialogue it creates enriches and inspires. I haven't lost touch with the world of restaurants, there is still service here and we just want to prove it. Even in London I saw skepticism in the eyes of the people, and then an understanding of what we are capable of. That's where we are paddlers".
Bradclub, 70 Ibn Gvirol and 63 Sderot Nordau, Tel Aviv, and also Lehi 2, Rishon Lezion
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Landover