Roi Goren, Shelakham, Tel Aviv/Shelakham
About 180 columns of "Going Eaters" allow for a relatively relaxed leaning back and establish two absolute truths that are almost self-evident - I've already seen everything, and I haven't seen anything yet.
Somehow, in Israel's food market, both go together and do not collide.
On the contrary, one complements the other.
For all the columns of "Going Eaters"
a koba in a pita and a burik in a friksa is already quite natural, as is shawarma from the soil and couscous from the soul, many many times of "this place is going to break the cursed corner of Tel Aviv" and even more times of "we thought we didn't need Another hamburger, and we were wrong."
180 columns on street food give a great deal of proportion to street food, and a lot of scenes that illustrate the power of food, and the power of the street - stalls out of nowhere and carts that need nothing but three meters of parking - not always in sequence - a crowded butka or a fancy complex.
As long as there is energy, there will also be food, and there will also be visions like Shalchem, a neighborhood pizzeria that operates its own post office.
Because I've already seen everything, but I haven't seen anything yet.
Certainly not like that.
A vision that really was.
For your work/Wala! system, it will generate money
Roy Goren was not supposed to be in the quiet commercial center of Shikon L in north Tel Aviv.
He dreamed of becoming a doctor and worked as a senior medic and an ambulance driver in Magan David Adom, until one of his brothers asked - what do you like to do, actually?
- diverted him to the path of high culinary studies, and to work in the most prestigious restaurants in the world.
He cooked at Daniel Bolo's in New York, returned to the rather mythical "Boya" in the Tel Aviv port (and holds a picture of it with Bill Clinton) and knows how to tell a good story about Jonathan Rochefeld as well (although, as usual with the latter, most of these stories remain with us).
Then, a few months after his eldest son was born, he moved here, and opened a deli that cooks home-cooked food.
"I don't have an ego," he explained, "I didn't want to be enslaved to the nature of a chef's work in restaurants and I wasn't ready for that to define me. I support my family, and that's what I wanted to do."
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No ego, with bubbles.
For your sake/Gil Aviram
The deli worked, and still works, from morning to noon, but Goren was looking for "something more", as he defined it, that would provide him with a relatively smooth transition between places.
In that sense, his new neighborhood pizzeria was born well-placed and well-timed—adjacent, and now.
"The post office in the center was closed and I decided to jump at the opportunity", he described the move that combined proven abilities and old dreams, and while taking advantage of opportunities, fast, efficient and smart.
The remnants of that move, you may have already figured out, include operating a package delivery room for postal customers, on Schalchem's payroll ("They own the whole space, and that's the deal. The guy we got to work here even likes it").
As mentioned, you see everything in this profession, and every day you see something new.
"Something else" is found.
For your work/Wala! system, it will generate money
Israeli food with an Italian accent.
For your work/Wala! system, it will generate money
Shalachem (what a lovely name, and with an homage in the form of the biblical verse Choir on the Wall) does not claim to make the best pizza in Israel, nor even the best pizza in Tel Aviv. Goren's exact words. Instead, she simply wants to serve the audience and the community , the neighborhood and the surrounding area, and create Israeli food with an Italian accent.
The result is a small but flexible menu, with classic trays (a good diameter of 38 cm, NIS 68-88) and more fascinating combinations, blessed and large slices at the front of the display case that change frequently (15-18 shekels), some pasta and salad and some sweet, and a beer to wash it all down.
Tell me about someone who needs more than that, and I'll tell you back about scraps.
The route calculator.
Goren and Shalchem/Gil Aviram
The dough is excellent, medium in thickness and stabilizes well at the midpoint of bubbly airiness and chewy presence
The dough is excellent, medium in thickness and stabilizes well at the midpoint of bubbly airiness and chewy presence.
The margarita (NIS 68) provides a great basic option, from which you can step in any direction you want (but be careful, the slices are large) - a kicking Putanska with Kalamata olives and anchovies (NIS 82), "Harifa Ash" pizza with fresh chili and chipotle (75 NIS) or melanzana with diced eggplant and Bulgarian (NIS 78) that manages to effectively convert a well-known pasta dish into a mobile triangle.
"Fongi Tartufo" (Bianca sauce, mozzarella, mushrooms, oregano and truffle oil, NIS 78), "Dolce Batte" (sweet potato cream, sweet potato cubes, basil, parmesan and balsamic cream, NIS 84), "Carchopi" (sauce tomatoes, mozzarella, purple onion, roasted pepper, artichoke slices and fresh oregano, NIS 78) and "Tropicana" (Bianca sauce, mozzarella, pineapple, fresh chili, roasted pepper, fresh oregano and candied pecan chips, NIS 88) are a little more riotous .
Pizzat playground.
For your sake/Gil Aviram
Somewhat surprisingly, perhaps considering the "what else" options at other pizzerias, one of the best dishes here is hidden in the pasta section, waiting for those who want a little more - variety, corruption, comfort.
The model is to choose a type of pasta (bought but fresh, and also bought but excellent) between rigatoni, linguine, hams, sweet potato ravioli or mascarpone anillotti, and matching it to the sauce (pomodoro, tomato butter, Parmesan cream and alfredo mushrooms, NIS 54-77).
The options are interesting, but one can only declare out loud that they are dwarfed by the one - plump anillotti, filled with plump mascarpone cream in itself, and bathed in a delicate "pana" sauce of cream and Parmesan cheese.
Yes, she is chubby too.
What else do we have left here, actually?
And so, in a modest-looking cabin in a commercial center in Nachba hides a tremendous and not arrogant pasta dish, neighborhood but not disparaging, and in fact the food we all want to eat at the end of the day.
Every day.
Diversity, corruption, comfort.
to fight you
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Goren closes this pyramid of needs with soft ice cream and mostly top toppings, with an Israeli playlist that loves Eric Einstein and with ambitions to establish Friday parliaments, including carbohydrates and pours, not necessarily in that order.
And the track?
Both fast and stable, clear and subject to change.
An ambulance driver and medic became a restaurant chef, then jumped from the speeding truck to a slightly different food life, and still manages to maintain an interesting and parallel career as one of the top volleyball referees in the world.
"When my brother asked that question, that was the day I realized I loved to cook," he recalls.
This day is still going on.
Shalachem, Barali 18, Tel Aviv, 03-6999000
More on the same topic:
Street food
pizza
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