As of: April 8, 2024, 7:39 a.m
By: Sandra Keck
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In addition to Königsberger Klopsen or currywurst, Berlin cuisine also offers sweet delicacies such as sliver rolls. This is how you prepare the GDR classic.
In contrast to the famous Hamburg Franzbrötchen, sliver rolls are hardly known outside of the capital. But once you've tried it, you won't want anything else. Once ubiquitous, they are now like a hidden treasure in the streets of Berlin, difficult to discover because only a few bakeries still offer them. But when you find them, they reveal a unique taste that cannot be missed on any breakfast table.
But what exactly are sliver rolls? These sweet yeast rolls, once popular in the old bakeries of the GDR, have now become a Berlin specialty. They are often affectionately referred to as the “Berliner Croissant” and are characterized by their slightly splintery crust and soft crumb. The irregular shape and the jagged surface are probably the reason for the name.
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But these little delicacies are more than just baked goods. They embody a nostalgic feeling and a certain belonging to the city. You can tell by the different preparation, because the Berlin Wall and decades of division have meant that there are actually two different ways of preparing sliver rolls: the East German and the West German. In the GDR version, cold cubes of butter are worked under the dough before it is formed into rolls; in the West German version, the dough is toured - i.e. layers of butter are pulled under the dough. No matter which variant, the mix of soft brioche rolls and flaky croissants is convincing and tastes great on its own, with plum jam, fig jam or a sweet apricot jam.
Only a few Berlin bakeries still offer slivered rolls. Anyone who finds a bakery like this can count themselves lucky. © Simply Tasty
You need these ingredients for a simple version of the sliver rolls:
250 ml milk, cold
50 g butter, soft
500 g wheat flour
50g sugar
1 packet of dry baking yeast
1 pinch of salt
1 pinch of turmeric (optional)
100 g butter, cold
Split rolls are a sweet mix of fluffy brioche and flaky croissants. © Simply Tasty
Preparation is easy thanks to these step-by-step instructions:
Briefly mix the flour, sugar, dry yeast, salt and, if desired, turmeric (ensures a more beautiful color), then add cold milk and the soft butter and knead. The result should be a firm, viscous dough (add a little more flour if necessary).
Using the dough hook of a food processor, knead the dough well for eight minutes so that it no longer sticks to the edge of the bowl. Knead briefly with your hands on a lightly floured work surface, shape into a ball, set aside and let rest, covered, for 30 minutes.
Also quickly roll out the cold butter on a lightly floured work surface into a 20 x 20 centimeter square. Refrigerate.
Roll out the dough on a floured work surface to twice the size of the butter plate. Brush off excess flour with a brush. Place butter on one side of the dough and then fold the other half of the dough over it. Squeeze everything together into a packet.
Roll out the dough again into a rectangle (50 x 25 cm) and then fold the ends of the dough on the left and right in the middle so that they touch and lie on top of each other.
Roll out the dough again into a rectangle and repeat the previous folding step again. Now the dough should have a total of nine layers of butter. Wrap the dough in foil and chill for 30 minutes.
Cut the rectangle into nine equal pieces. For the typical sliver roll shape, pierce the pieces of dough in the middle with your thumbs and push two opposite corners from above through the hole downwards.
Place the slivered rolls on a baking tray lined with baking paper, spacing them apart. Cover with a clean cloth and let rest for an hour and a half.
Preheat the oven to 200 °C with a deep baking tray on the bottom shelf.
Slide the slivered rolls over the baking tray into the oven. Fill the bottom baking tray with a little water to create steam. After six minutes of baking, remove the baking tray and change the oven temperature to 200 °C top/bottom heat. Bake for another 15 to 20 minutes.
Let the slivered rolls cool and enjoy with butter, jam or nut nougat cream.
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Split rolls are a regional specialty in Berlin, but can only be found in a few bakeries. With the recipe from Simply Tasty you can make the sweet rolls yourself. © Simply Tasty
Simple Tasty Tip:
Normally a lukewarm liquid is added to a yeast dough so that the yeast is activated more quickly and the dough rises quickly. However, this is not recommended when preparing a Danish pastry, as the cold butter that is incorporated (technical term
“touring”: the incorporation of fat into a base dough in layers) then melts more quickly. For flaky slivered rolls, the butter layers must be separated from the dough layers, so it is worth keeping the dough cold between folding and rolling out.
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The journey to the Berliner Splitterbrötchen is not only a culinary discovery, but also a journey into the past and the identity of the city. In every bite, tradition, taste and the unique flair of Berlin combine to create an irresistible delicacy that can also be enjoyed outside the city limits with this recipe.