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Dining People: The Smokers | Israel today

2020-01-10T10:50:42.263Z


You sat down


A journey that started in the Yanov session and ended in the middle of a dark forest, where a group of men set fire to select chunks. Hila Alpert follows the old meat smoking addicts

  • A meeting of the group of smoking addicts in Hadera Forest. "We are Old School. Iron smokers use trees, work on trees" // Photo: Itiel Zion

The instructions we were given were clear - where to get off the road, how to cross the railroad tracks, and how from there, on a dirt road, to travel alongside the trees until we saw the fire. It was clearly stated that we would not be alarmed even if we thought we were on the road. But the thick darkness of the Hadera Forest brought back the trembling I knew when they made us a night out on the kibbutz. The rain that was falling blurred and I was sure we were lost and words were born to drive out the fear and I started to make a speech in the car that once the ancients discovered the fire, he started On her, it seems that the roasting and distribution of the meat was a men's business.

I talked about the land and sea hunters who studied salting and drying as a way of conservation, and told how when they tried to replace the sun with fire, they discovered the effect of smoke on taste and the extension of meat life. I said that it would be years before the world learned the preservatives that contained the smoke, most notably the formaldehyde.

So until, out of the darkness, almost by surprise, we spotted cars and behind them, among the pine trees, we found them. A group of men, stocked with drink glasses, immersed in meat work between smokers, roasting facilities, burning fires, poika pots, sends incense to the Friday sky and around them tents are deployed to do the night. In the morning they will be joined by their spouses and children, and chunks will be pulled out of the smokes, but the night belongs to them and what is cooked on the grill, to the dishes that will reach their chapter before dawn.

Everyone brought what he deserved. Mini meats, hot and cold drinks, fun for the mind and head, and the competition for those who have more, primordial competition like the burning fire everywhere, has given rise to tremendous abundance.

Among other things, we knew there were stuffed dates in a margarine sausage, that grilling the grits makes their fruit rind crunchy, crazy, grilled fruit and vegetables, chili con carne, burgers with or without rolls, chunks waiting to be called Ze'ev and Yossi's smoke, or Assaf's From Beit Yehoshua. Birds anointed with fermented garlic powder, and a short fight that roasted a man in the light near the fire and reminded me of it at the time, on the way to Nagorongoro Crater in Tanzania, when the guide suddenly turned his car toward a large circle of thorns.

There, hidden from view, massagers engaged in roasting meat. Two thin wooden crosses stood in a coffin. One of them had a chest, and in the other there was a lamb market, from which they quickly cut a share of the guide and photograph. To me and my craving, nothing was offered. In the masses, it is the children and women who eat their heads, strengthen their minds, and the parts of the face that protect them from weakness. The flesh, like the blood, which is a symbol of power, is reserved for men.

A myth of control

"By virtue of the belief that 'what you eat is what you are,'" wrote Dalia Lamedani, author of the wonderful book "Journey Around the Table" (self-publishing), "attributed to the man's qualities of meat, and especially of red meat, which is powerful and powerful (though "Red meat is a symbol of strength, of the occupation of the wilderness, of control of the animal world, but also of women and other peoples."

Ziv Roder. "I love the pace, love to get dirty" // Photo: Snir Guetta

Ziv Roder, the owner of the "smoker" in Moshav Yanov in Sharon, and the founder of the "Smoker Friends and Addicts Club" group on Facebook, which has 12,000 members, is that we can have a glimpse of the friends meeting, says there are also women in the group, but few. In the end, smoking has to be admitted as a matter of men. He said there was another large group in the country, called "The Secrets of the Smoker and the Suvoid," that there was covert competition between the two groups and that the main difference was the attitude. "We are Old School. Iron smokers are used, they work on trees. They do not smoke gas and electricity or any modern equipment."

Taught me about ceramic, frugal smokers when it comes to the amount of trees and time, said that gas and electric smokers allow the addition of smoky-smelling meats, but he's in love the long way, the one that takes patience. "I love the pace, I love to get dirty," he says, adding, "roasting the barbecue and smoking is about gatherings, inspiration, experience. Steaming delicious meat is just a bonus.

"We as a community are very generous in recipes and tips, everyone wants it to be for everyone. Both the amateurs and the pros. It's not a matter of keeping secret. It's not interesting. The thing is the culture. We have in the group a map that everyone puts themselves as a point about, and it's lovely to see someone stuck without a race For smoking or butcher paper, or just short in charcoal, raises a question and dozens say to him, "Come on, dude, I'm 10 minutes away from you." In the end, it is men and cooks and obviously there is ego, but the heart is in mutual help. "

Says the public began to understand and demand quality meat, to talk about old age. Who no longer see meat injected in the market, which he has not encountered in a very long time. Says that a decade ago, smokers began to have a trinity of sirloin, entrecote and filet. Get tired of a peg or a poppy. That even higher prices have pushed them to find widespread use for the cheaper chunks.

He has just returned from a smokers' journey in Austin, Texas, the smack of smoking, looking for people who smoke a medium, who deal with geese and lambs, and haven't found one. Says the Americans are good with the beef breast, is the brisket, with the short ribs, bacon, and sprouts. In his opinion, avoiding pigs has made smokers in the country one of the leaders in geese and patchwork smoking. Which is a local language created here with regard to Rab, this is how smoking language is called the spice blend where chunks are rubbed before smoking. One that uses elephant ras and the introduction of Asian influences, alongside local ones, to marinades. What is still missing from the local scene compared to what he discovered there is a respect for the hot dog.

When I ask where he finds himself in the face of the vegan revolution, he breathes thought, saying that he thinks the vegan struggle should have been aimed at the meat industry, for slaughter control and for human growth. "It was empowering in the public. But once they chose to get everyone in the plate and try to inculcate the idea that milk is a pus and the steak is a scream of calf, the public of the carnivores started a war of theirs off the plate."

The restaurant with the smoker

Gentle Roder, 43 years ago, was born in Moshav Tzur Moshe in Sharon, the oldest of Lily's two children, a beauty stewardess, and Moshe, a plant maintenance manager. In his early 30s, Roder began smoking. For years he roamed the country with a traveling smoker, until he decided to settle in Janow, the neighboring seat, under a yellow Albicia tree, who still remembers the days when the consumerist operated there, the one who switched to a toy store, until Roeder came and in 2015 planted a restaurant.

Under a generous shade, smokestacks, tables and grills were deployed in the yard and in the building, which Ziv built with Father Moshe, woodcuts piled up and the fire burned. Everything served to the tables is installed in the primordial fire, from the chunks of meat to what goes with them - potatoes, seared vegetables or rice brewing in the pot of puke, like a bean stew with smoked meat.

The smoker of the "smoker" restaurant. All food is installed in the primeval fire // Photo: Itiel Zion

The restaurant has two smokers, the small one in the yard and the big one inside the restaurant. In the yard, chunks that require long smoking like the brisket or short-ribs are used in the smoke that maintains a stable temperature without having to open the smoker's door again, as is the case in the large restaurant, from which the chunks are served.

Pleasant seating, which should only be reached in advance, so that smokers will know how to plan quantities and the chunks will be deployed when they come to pieces, and will not require re-heating, which is detrimental to their juiciness, in serving respect for the optimal point of smoking.

The tables at noon are mostly populated by men, those who have stopped for a moment on their way here or who have come especially. The meat is fresh, local, and of far better quality than most of the smokes we encountered. Among other things, you will find a great picnic, a senior sirloin sirloin, a lamb market, aries sprouts, homemade chorizos. The place is not kosher, but white meat is not there, nor are dairy products and except for the tongue and the rhythm section, is the diaphragm, you will not find parts of the place.

The Smoker, Olive Path 88, Janov, Phone:

09-8945118. Open Sunday - Thursday, 12: 30-15: 30, 18: 30-24: 00, by reservation only. In the evening the restaurant offers three types of banquets of different sizes. Prices range from NIS 175 to NIS 275, including a meeting with a memorable potato, a delectable spicy salsa and cucumbers, which pick and miss Ziv's father.

Chili con carne

Cowboy stew calls Chili Con Karna in Ziv's smoker, where smoked bones and chunks are used to enrich the casserole. I chose to bring you my recipe, which has a distinctly Mexican influence and is friendly to an off-the-shelf kitchen.

Start with beans the night before. The soaking water should be replaced several times, and in no case cook the beans. If you forgot to soak, you can pour boiling water on the beans and within a hour it will give you. But it is under pressure, so that its bark will crease and taste will be damaged.

Ingredients (for 8 servings):

√ 3 tablespoons corn oil

√ 1 large, finely chopped onion

√ 2 good-quality Cabanus sausages cut into cubes about 1/2 cm in size

√ 200 grams of smoked goose breast cut into cubes about 1/2 cm in size

√ 8 coarsely chopped garlic cloves

√ 2-4 chopped fresh hot peppers

√ 400g thin chopped beef neck or

Coarsely ground

√ 2 cups dry red beans

There is plenty of water for the night

√ 400 grams of canned crushed tomatoes

√ 20 grams of dark chocolate, preferably 90%,

cut into cubes

√ 1 tablespoon minced chilli

√ 1 teaspoon of cumin oatmeal

√ Salt

√ Chopped coriander

In a large saucepan, heat the oil and fry the chopped onion on low heat until softened. Add the cabbage and the goose breast and fry for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and chopped hot peppers and fry for a minute. Add the chopped meat and fry, stirring, until the meat is browned on all sides. Add the tomatoes, beans, chocolate and water until the casserole is covered and bring to a boil. Add the chilli and cumin and cook on low heat for about two hours or until the beans are tender. Salt, taste and season seasoning. Sprinkle with the chopped coriander and serve immediately.

hillaal1@gmail.com

Source: israelhayom

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