Curious calendar coincidence: at the start of 2020, Place Gaillon, located five minutes from the Opéra Garnier in Paris, is in the spotlight. Recognizable by its 18th century fountain made by Jean Beausire, where a young newt sits enthroned mischievously riding a dolphin, this small crossroads shelters two gastronomic institutions recently bought by weighty investors. And revived with fanfare.
Chez Drouant, it is the two-star chef of Crayères, Philippe Mille, who designed the menu. Jean-Christophe Marmara / LE FIGARO
On the one hand, Drouant, founded 140 years ago, where the Goncourt prize is awarded every first Monday in November since 1914. The historic table was sold by Alsatian chef Antoine Westermann to the Gardinier brothers, owners of Taillevent and the estate Les Crayères in Reims (both two stars). On the other, La Fontaine Gaillon, once owned by Gérard Depardieu, now in the hands of the Moma Group of Benjamin Patou, a prolific entrepreneur in Parisian restaurants and nightlife (Lapérouse, Manko, La Gare, etc.). Which has placed in the kitchen Marc Veyrat, the Savoyard chef with a hat in open conflict with the Michelin since the demotion to two buttons of his flagship from Manigod (Haute-Savoie). The opportunity to compare the two addresses.
The facade of La Fontaine Gaillon. Jean-Christophe Marmara / LE FIGARO
● The decor
Imposing reception counter, fireplace in the ground floor room, attractive tiling, wood paneling, velvet, soothing color palette, trendy prints, designer Axel Huynh, well known to the Moma Group (he also worked on the Mona Bismarck Hotel), was able to take advantage of the premises without taking any risks. A consensual style for an address that should appeal to both locals and the many tourists in this district.
● The clientele
Very eclectic the day of our visit. Gentlemen with ties and bilingual for business lunches, girlfriends on a shopping break, an elegant woman alone with her Figaro (yes, if), tourists including a couple more taken up by their mobile phones than by the sweet oaths in the city of love: the frantic “name dropping” that accompanies the launch - Veyrat + Depardieu - large rake.
● The chef and the plate
We no longer introduce Marc Veyrat, who says he will be present at La Fontaine Gaillon three days a week - bad luck, we were there one day without a hat. He imported from Manigod his lobster casserole with the very good bisque sauce, swapping the blue of Termignon (eccentric idea) for Roquefort (idea always eccentric), sprinkling this baroque assembly of shiso leaves (bad idea). The caraway mash with caraway served with scallops does not have the taste of caraway, the promised lemongrass is of a disturbing discretion, the shells themselves, which we are still looking for in what they are "crystallized" n ' have nothing unforgettable despite a pearl of date puree. For dessert, we are strongly dissuaded from trying the chartreuse baba ( "the sponge cake is not homemade" ) to recommend the profiterole, honest in its genre.
Lobster casserole with Roquefort and shiso leaves. Jean-Christophe Marmara / LE FIGARO
● The cellar
Complies with the “name dropping” spirit, with labels that are quickly overpriced, like this exquisite 2017 rully from the Dureuil-Janthial domain billed at 88 euros (yes, eighty-eight euros). Otherwise, four whites, four reds and a rosé by the glass (8 to 18 euros).
● The service
Pulled to the nines, kind, even joker, trying to establish collusion but monopolized by this fact by simultaneous conversations with several tables. Note that the lunch menu at 45 euros was not offered to us - an oversight, no doubt.
● Prices
If you venture outside the lunch menu (starter, main course and dessert), count 60 euros per person, excluding drinks.
The Gaillon Fountain. 1, rue de la Michodière (2e). Tel .: 01 88 33 93 00. Daily except Sun
The facade of Drouant. Jean-Christophe Marmara / LE FIGARO
● The decor
From the lounges upstairs - where the deliberations of Goncourt and Renaudot take place - to the large rooms on the ground floor, via the superb Ruhlmann staircase, Drouant has taken a facelift while retaining its Art Deco charm . Exit brown leather armchairs, white tablecloths and blinds: Fabrizio Casiraghi and Franck Durand imagined a brighter place, with a light mosaic floor and seats (armchairs and benches) in yellow velvet, which contrast with the warm browns of the woodwork ( walls and tables).
● The clientele
Today, a mix of regulars, British tourists afflicted by Brexit and neighbors of the neighborhood. If the over 60s prevail, a few good food lovers come to celebrate an occasion.
● The chef and the plate
Philippe Mille, two-star chef at Les Crayères, was entrusted with the task of modernizing (and reducing) the menu, while retaining his bourgeois identity. Seconded by Émile Cotte, executive chef exfiltrated from the 110 de Taillevent, he oscillates between traditional recipes (three-meat pie, béarnaise beef fillet) and more aerial dishes with contemporary associations (beets in variation, sheep curd and pistachio, cod pearly, candied fennel and sea urchins), always carefully prepared. The lobster and swimming ravioli of Condrieu have fine dough, stuffing and tasty Asian broth (even if it could have been more marked). But the real nice surprise of the meal will be the financial vol-au-vent (poultry and crayfish cheeses), as spectacular as it is delicious with its cream sauce which manages to remain light. For dessert, good point for the soft meringue, pineapple refreshed with coriander, all in freshness. As for the chocolate soufflé pie, the dough unfortunately suffered a slight overcooking that evening.
The vol-au-vent to finance at Drouant. Jean-Christophe Marmara / LE FIGARO
● The cellar
At Les Gardiniers, we don't mess with skittles. Thirty-year-old Antoine Pétrus, MOF sommelier in sight, managing director of Taillevent and responsible for purchasing for the group, was thus responsible for constituting "the most beautiful wine cellar in the Rhône of the capital" . That is 1000 references from the thick cellar book, including a fortnight offered by the glass, like the very pleasant Viognier from the Lombard estate, all in freshness and acidity (10 euros).
● The service
White jackets and sneakers, a lot of young people, for a parity that is casual but professional.
● Prices
Except the menu at 46 euros (two starters, two dishes and two desserts of your choice), a full à la carte meal varies between 50 and 100 euros (excluding drinks).
Drouant. 16-18, rue Gaillon (2e). Tel .: 01 42 65 15 16. Tlj.
Marc Veyrat draws his notoriety from a speech focused on the uniqueness of his Savoyard terroir. What does he have to tell us in Paris? He intends to forbid his door to Michelin inspectors: the latter would lose nothing, for the time being, to take his word for it. Drouant has been able to modernize, both in terms of setting and on the plate, without losing sight of its historical heritage. Doubtless Philippe Mille and Émile Cotte can however go even further in seasonings and tastes, to definitively register the address in its time, even if it means jostling its old regulars. Advantage Drouant.