Embedded in its wooded hills, stretched between land and sea, the Norwegian capital is an atypical destination. Surrounded by forests and lakes, this city on a human scale appears as an urban interlude facing its fjord and its string of islands. It is no coincidence that it won the title of Green Capital of Europe in 2019. And to understand it, you have to abandon the commonplaces that come back from stays in major capitals.
Because in winter in Oslo, and nowhere else, in a single day you will be able to see a sharp exhibition, vintage shopper, listen to an opera with flamboyant distribution and hit the slopes all dressed up! No, the city dwellers who walk in the city center in full suits, skis or snowboard on the shoulder, are not fetishist originals, but simple addicts in great white all busy ... taking the metro. Thirty minutes later, they will be at the Vinterpark in Tryvann to take their dose of powder.
A unique experience, to live from the first snowfall, generally at the end of November. February and March are, however, the best times to go there. Snow and sliding conditions are then optimal.
Throughout this long winter period, skiing, especially Nordic, becomes embedded in everyday life and punctuates the banality of the life of a capital. On the platform of the metro line 1, in a small crowd mixing Norwegians commuting to work or schoolchildren, a pair of skis sticks out. Boarding. Metro stations are parading. Names unpronounceable too. Froen, Gullerasen, Besserud… The pleasure is close, about ten kilometers away.
Skiing from Oslo: direction Holmenkollen, Frognerseteren and Volsenkollen
Holmenkollen hill is a good starting point for enjoying the huge cross-country ski area. For alpine skiing, head to Oslo Vinter Park in Tryvann. Both destinations are accessible by the "T-bane", direction Frognerseteren.
The Holmenkollen stops, serving the eponymous hill, and Frognerseteren (terminus of line 1) give access to the Nordic ski slopes. From Frognerseteren, you can also take Korketrekkeren (the "corkscrew"), the most popular toboggan run in town. 2 kilometers long, it is free and accessible for the whole family. It closes at 10 p.m. Monday to Saturday and at 7 p.m. Sunday. Allow between 10 and 15 euros for the rental of a sledge.
Oslo Vinter Park in Tryvann , a neighbor to its Nordic alter ego, is 14 km from downtown Oslo. And as for Holmenkollen, you can get there by metro using line 1, Volsenkollen stop. Allow less than 40 minutes for the journey.
Holmenkollen, the temple of Nordic skiing
Tord Baklund
This famous hill overlooks Oslo. It flirts with the residential districts of the same name of the vast capital, bordered by the forest. The reputation of the place is due to the colossal ski jump, which is close to the 120 meters. And for Nordic skiing enthusiasts, climbing there is equivalent to a pilgrimage: Holmenkollen is the world benchmark for cross-country skiing, a glorified activity in Norway. At the top of the hill, go first to the observation platform, following the signs. The detour is worth a look. You overlook on one side the city and its fjord where merchant ships float and bathe islands. Turning your head, the start of more than 2,500 km of maintained cross-country ski trails takes shape in the great white. The choice of tracks is overwhelming but a single 25-kilometer loop, the starting line of which is fixed at the foot of the springboard, has founded the legend of the site, during the long-distance 50 km World Cup skiing events. Nordic. The route was reduced to 16.7 km then to 8.3 km, but its relief, formidable, confines it to experienced skiers.
For quieter skiing, flatter routes open up the ski area. From both Holmenkollen and Frognerseteren, check out the signs to choose yours. Please note: unlike in France, the difficulty of the slopes is not materialized by a color.
Alpine skiing: two sites, two possibilities
Tord Baklen
Not all Norwegians do cross-country skiing! The proof, this year Oslo will host for the first time (March 7 and 8) the 24th Winter X Games, the annual meeting of the best snowboarders and freestylers on the planet. For that, head to the Tryvann area at Oslo Vinter Park, which surrounds that of Nordic skiing, 14 km from the capital. But as much to say, we are far from the canons of French stations. The station remains modest in size (18 pistes) with limited interest compared to the Alps or Pyrenees areas. The price of the day pass (around 45 €) may therefore seem high, but Norway remains an expensive country.
Another possibility to treat yourself to a sliding session is Grefsenkollen, the second alpine ski resort in Oslo. Located 20 minutes from the city center via bus 56B, it is smaller and family-friendly (6 tracks) and the cost of the package is lower: around 35 euros.
Ski equipment: where to rent it?
Cross-country skiing or alpine skiing, it is possible to rent them on site in the Vintepark of the Tryvann resort. The latter is located 800 m from the Volsenkollen stop on line 1. Allow 50 and 60 euros on average for a full day rental.
Convenient
Oslo can be visited and crossed mainly by metro. OsloPass allows you to take public transport including the ferry and part of the airport ticket (excluding the Express train). Count NOK 445 (€ 45) for 24 hours, NOK 655 (€ 65) for 48 hours and NOK 820 (€ 82) for 72 hours. It gives the right to discounts or even freebies in certain museums, including the Astrup Fearnley, the Norsk Folkemuseum, and the ski museum, located under the springboard of the Holmenkollen stadium. There will be a permanent exhibition of the pairs of skis from the Norwegian heroes of the Olympic Games, including those of the biathlon superstar, Ole Einar Bjoerndalen. From the museum hall, you can also take an elevator that leads to the top of the springboard and to its observation platform.
Go
The Norwegian capital is served by Oslo-Gardermoen International Airport. Norwegian offers direct flights from Paris (except Saturday until the end of March, daily thereafter) and Geneva (Thursday, Saturday and Sunday until the end of March and Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from April). The first prices for a round trip start at 80 euros.
Air France and SAS also offer direct flights from Paris. There are none from Lyon, Marseille and Bordeaux. Fares from these cities start at 140 euros (round trip).
From the airport, you must board the Flytoget (Airport express) which drops you off in the city center in 20 minutes. Allow 40 euros for a round trip.
MORE INFORMATIONS:
Norwegian Tourist Office: www.visitnorway.fr.
Oslo Tourist Office: www.visitoslo.com.
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