What it's made of isn't the only thing that matters: that's how you choose the perfect pan

There is no kitchen without a pan. You can already have a granite countertop and a microwave of more than 1,000 euros (yes, there are) that, with permission from pots, pans, pots and steamers, the heart of the house is not complete until you buy one, or several, pans. Too bad it seems impossible to have one for a lifetime: it is one of the utensils that most times must be changed, either because it has been scratched, the handle begins to vibrate dangerously and hopelessly every time you jump, the bottom of the instrument, for some reason, Cook the steaks instead of frying them or, curiosities of the stove, fry them on one end and cook them on the other. You will end up having to buy a new pan, and the choice is not easy. Even less in the corridor of a large area dominated by dozens of models of all sizes and possible claims. Fortunately, there are three things that will guide you to make the choice more accurate.

Beyond personal preferences - everyone who enjoys putting on the apron has them - knowing the material it is made of, the characteristics of each type of handle and how is the kitchen in which we will use it allows us to make the right decision.

There is life beyond Teflon

So that nothing sticks to us, the Teflon pans (referred to by the acronym PTFE, polytetrafluoroethylene) are the best option. This non-stick material was accidentally discovered in 1938 and ended up completely changing the life of the kitchens: it is light, easy to clean and white, it has to be darkened to give it the look we all know. The disadvantages are that they have proven to be sensitive to abrasion, it is not convenient to put these pans in the dishwasher, and they are not the best withstanding very high temperatures. In addition, they lose their properties at the slightest scratch, which is easy to appear because it is a soft material.

The stone pans offer a somewhat worse nonstick, but keep the temperature very well. According to an analysis by the Organization of Consumers and Users (OCU), the surface layer of this type of pan has the same Teflon as nonstick pans, although in the deep part of the bottom of the utensil there are particles of mineral silicon. Like Teflon, the non-stick layer can be reinforced with mineral particles such as titanium (when you see words such as "titanium" and "platinium" on the label, these minerals have been used to reinforce the soft Teflon). They are more sensitive to losing non-stick properties and must be taken care of with care, since they are more fragile, but withstand higher temperatures.

There are also those of cast iron, which, although they take time, conduct heat evenly and retain it for a long time; not all of them are non-stick in themselves, but there are those that, due to the porosity of the material, have a natural non-stick and survive you and your offspring. Of course, we must avoid that they remain wet for a long time - they will not rust - and not washing them in the dishwasher, your grandchildren can use them. The bad thing is its weight, a characteristic that they share with those of steel, which scratch much less and resist high temperatures better. The problem is that making an omelet in them without leaving a little egg stuck is a rather complicated mission. Vitrified enamel, meanwhile, is a coating for the outside. And copper pans only carry some particles of this mineral, whose use was abandoned in kitchen utensils years ago.

Before taking it home, take it by the handle

The bottom material of the pan is crucial, after all it determines how the heat reaches the food. But do not leave aside the point of contact with the hands of the cook, which is none other than the handle. This piece is as important as the rest of the tool: when you notice that the screw that holds it is loose while you skip the ingredients of a good sauce, what do you do? Do you run for the screwdriver, leave the pan on the fire and suppress your instinct to shake the contents well?

In this section, security rules. According to an analysis of pans that he published last September in the magazine Compra Maestra, there are pans whose screw is heated so much that it can pose a danger when handling it. To know what type of handle suits you, it is also a good idea to look at the material it is made of.

It has an ergonomic shape and is attached to the body of the pan with fixed rivets. The good thing is that it is easy to clean and can be put in the oven to gratin (without exceeding the temperature indicated by the manufacturer). The bad thing is that the metal heats up and it is easy for the handle to burn in the area closest to the pan. Peace of mind, if you have a good pan you will also have a rag to pick up the mango.

It is the most common. Among the advantages is that its shape is usually more ergonomic and has reliefs that prevent the hand from reaching the hot zone of the pan; It is also possible to change it if necessary. The bad thing is that it can have grooves where dirt accumulates, it is not suitable for the oven and, as everyone who has had this type of pan knows, it is normal for the screw to loosen.

It has a mechanism that allows it to fit and disengage it, which means that you can put the pan in the oven, as far as the material from the rest of the pan can stand. The negative side is that they tend to be more fragile and break more easily.

Tell me what kitchen you have and I'll tell you what pan you need

This is important. When you're in front of the wall of hypermarket pans, think about your kitchen. A gas is not the same as a hob or induction. Not all pans are suitable for cooking in all of them, although at this point the most common is that they are designed for any type of fire. So before buying one and taking a dislike to realize that after half an hour to the fire there is no progress, it is best to look at the bottom. "They have marked the type of plate on which they can be used," they point out from the OCU.

How hot is the first step, but not the only one. Finding that the food is counted in the center and the sides remain raw (or vice versa) will not make us any grace and, however, it is something more frequent than we think. "Fires tend to concentrate heat in some parts," they say from the OCU, and add that "the greatest differences occur in induction plates." Although the difficulties go beyond the pan itself, this tool can make a difference: according to the OCU analysis, there are pans that register a difference of more than 60ºC between the temperature of the center and the ends. Only 12 euros,

Finally, the price. The report, which focused on 26 pans, concludes that you can have a good quality pan for 12 euros, although the ones with the best scores cost between 20 and 30 euros.

How to maximize the life of a pan

When you get ready to buy your nth frying pan, you only have one thing in mind: go back to the store as late as possible. You will not get it if you stay with your arms crossed, you have to follow guidelines such as those recommended by the OCU.

• Heat the pan with oil or some food inside. Doing it when it is empty can cause it to overheat and burn or damage the lining.

• Nothing to remove food with knives, forks or metal spoons. This material scratches the pan. It is best to opt for those that are made of wood or silicone.

• Do not put the hot pan under the tap water. It must be allowed to cool before because sudden temperature changes affect the metal. If the pan is bulging, for this or another reason, the oil ends up moving towards the sides of the circle, and that does not matter ...

• Do not use the pan as a taper: over time food can damage the coating.

• Always wash it by hand, with a soft sponge (no scourer) and a little detergent.

• Do not store it with other containers on top.

You can follow Buenavida on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or subscribe here to the Newsletter.