Towards this Montmartre which now has the good taste of having it and, like sometimes children, a model bistro where four hands of brothers in good base (ex-Servan, ex-Gagnaire) fall a conscientious card, of creativity under control, in short, less inclined to teach the lesson than to recite it. Nothing that tires but nothing that exceeds in these recipes with what it takes to turn, these well-designed plates, this pretty baking thread and the honesty to release the big game of products (scallops, monkfish, reef veal) up to the price claims. It's not that we are bored (far from it), it's not that we are enchanted but to say that, in their smooth double room not to be decorated, the brothers could surely dig a little more their talent.
With whom? One from the Republic of Montmartre.
One, two, three plates… Salpicon of scallops, Granny Smith, umami turnip: tangy. Monkfish roasted with tandoori, button mushrooms, lemon: great tenderness for cooking. Guava, citrus, dragon fruit, soft cookie: ouch, hard cookie!
Service? Discreet and loose.
The bill? A little rosse, at dinner, around 60 €. More forgiving menus at 24 and 28 € (breakfast, week).
What table? The 4.
Chantoiseau , 63, rue Lepic (18th). Tel .: 01 42 51 39 95. Timetable: Daily except Mon and Tue Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt.