Often, in recent years, the first pages of certain menus reveal the small lines of a few brains cooks proposing to declare their table idea. A soothing manifesto that generally doesn't share much beyond the hollow, the neutral and the pretentious. This time, however, the chef surely did well not to abstain. Alan Geaam had something on his heart and in the pan, something like an "autobiographical bistro". Pretty formula of a young Lebanese leaving, fifteen years ago, his country of cedars and ashes for a France in dream of furnaces. Modest, honest journey, of doubts and conquest, up to the Michelin star (rue Lauriston) and, today, this address between Marais and memory.
Read also: Alan Geaam, today's cook
Bistro Beirut. Night approach when the heights of picture window invite a whole black blue sky to soften, in room, with scraped stones and fresco in Matisse effect. Less then the experience of a tavern in fake Baalbek
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