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Grande Terre, Loyalty Islands, Isle of Pines ... New Caledonia Travel Guide

2020-05-31T21:30:35.883Z


17,000 km from the metropolis, this French archipelago at the end of the world set on the blue vastness of the Pacific bets on the diversity of its cultures, its landscapes and activities geared towards nature, all in an authentic atmosphere. gap in mass tourism.


Big land

Grande Terre is the main island of New Caledonia. 450 km long and about 50 km wide, it has the shape of a cigar and is characterized by its mosaic of landscapes. The interior is crossed by a mountain range that exceeds 1,000 m. The two coasts have very different physiognomies: the east coast, exposed to the prevailing winds, more watered, is very luxuriant, while the west coast, downwind and drier, is punctuated by an alternation of large green plains dedicated to the and large berries.

NOUMEA

Noumea, a touch of Nice in the tropics. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

A little air of Nice in the tropics ... Set in a magnificent natural setting combining hills, bays, beaches, lagoon and mangroves, the Caledonian capital does not lack pace. Strolling along the seafront at Vata Cove or having a drink in a bar along the "BD" (Baie des Citrons) are part of the rituals for visitors and Noumeans alike. In terms of culture, do not miss the exceptional Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Center, cultural and architectural flagship of the Pacific, devoted to Kanake culture and the Lagons aquarium, to get to know the multiple biotopes of the Caledonian lagoon, part of which is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Housing :

Le Méridien Nouméa Resort & Spa, Nouméa 98800, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 26 50 00. Double room from 180 € per night.

THE GREAT SOUTH

The southern tip of Grande Terre reveals a setting worthy of a Wild West. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

An hour's drive from Nouméa, the southern tip of Grande Terre reveals a setting worthy of a Far West: scrub, shrubs, primary forests, mining remains, ruins of a penal colony, artificial lake, vast bays, waterfalls water, and a magnificent nature reserve, Rivière-Bleue Provincial Park, which extends around a lake. Inside the park, a network of marked trails allows you to practice hiking and mountain biking and even to approach the cagou, the emblematic (and endemic) bird of New Caledonia, a 50 cm high wading bird with a beautiful gray plumage, an orange beak and a hoopoe on the head. From mid-July to mid-September, humpback whales frequent the waters of Prony Bay. Observation trips are organized from Noumea.

Housing :

Kanua Tera Ecolodge, tel. : +687 46.90.00. Double bungalow from 190 € per night, breakfast included.

BOURAIL AND POÉ

Poé is the main seaside area on the west coast. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

On the west coast, the small town of Bourail is the bastion of the Caldoche culture, the territory of the stockmen (the equivalent of the gauchos) who move on horseback in their immense ranches to watch the herds. In mid-August, it is essential to attend the Bourail fair, when a colorful rodeo is held. About fifteen kilometers from Bourail, Poé is the main seaside area on the west coast. The inhabitants of Noumea have their habits there on weekends. The long beach of Poé stretches for several kilometers in front of a translucent lagoon suitable for swimming and nautical activities. You can also go for walks along the coast.

Housing :

Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Spa & Golf Resort, Route de Poé, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 26 50 00. Double room from € 180.

L'Effet Mer guest house, Roche Percée, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 41.61.42. Double room from 60 €.

THE FORGOTTEN COAST

Thio offers a striking and unique contrast in New Caledonia. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

It is aptly named, this stretch of coastline of around fifty kilometers south of Thio (east coast), completely off the beaten track. You can breathe in a scent of adventure, along the unique road which ends in a cul-de-sac, enjoying superb views of the lagoon. What to do? Nothing, except indulge in contemplation and disconnect completely by bivouacking in a coconut grove, in absolute silence.

Housing :

Fô Pas Rêver, Grand Borendi, Thio (30 km from Thio). Phone. : +687 76 31 33. Camping € 12, bungalow € 60.

THE CALEDONIAN CORNICE


It was at Balade, on the lands of the current commune of Pouébo, that the first contact took place between Europeans and the Kanak people. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

It is one of the most photogenic areas of Grande Terre, to the northeast, between Pouébo and Hienghène. The narrow coastal road winds its way through the coconut groves and crosses Kanak hamlets where time seems to have stood still. The eye is drawn on one side by the lush mountains and the foaming waterfalls, on the other by the vast blue of the lagoon. Here and there, a few small beaches invite you to take a picnic break in an Olympian calm. The infrastructure - barely a handful of campsites - is limited, but the magic happens.

Housing :

Le Relais de Ouane Batch, RPN3, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 42 47 92. Camping € 12, bungalow € 50.

HIENGHENE

In this region of Hienghene called the Cradle of the Kanak soul, nature has been more than generous. Just divine, imagine coral forests, black stone cliffs in the middle of the lagoon, impressive waterfalls and lush vegetation. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

Stronghold of Kanak culture, on the east coast of Grande Terre, Hienghène is an ideal base to immerse yourself in traditional Melanesian culture. Visit the surrounding tribes (villages), stay in a kanak hut, and take part in clan activities (shrimp fishing, braiding, sculpture, cooking). Hienghène is also a high place for scuba diving, with a dozen sites renowned for their amazing architecture (arches, canyons) and the abundance of corals, gorgonians and nudibranchs.

Housing :

Koulnoue Village, BP 63, Hienghéne 98815, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 42 81 66. Double room from 80 €.

POINTIMIÉ

The vast majority of diving enthusiasts share the feeling that the diving spots off Poindimié are the most beautiful and richest on Grande Terre. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

Main town on the east coast of Grande Terre, Poindimié deserves a stopover of one or two days, all the more so if you like diving. The sites, close to the coral reef, are suitable for all levels and attract dense wildlife. Main attraction: flamboyant gorgonians and shimmering soft corals. For baptisms and snorkelling, head for the splendid Tibarama islet, just 10 minutes away. Don't forget your action camera! For sunbathing, the Poindimié beach is perfect.

Housing :

Tieti Hotel, Poindimié, New Caledonia. Phone. : 687 42 64 00. Double room from 155 €.

Gîte Néwé-Jié, Ina, Poindimié, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 42 70 74. Double bungalow from € 74.

POUM AND POINTE NORD

The road from Koumac to Poum, then to Poingam, and finally to Boat-Pass is as beautiful as it is spectacular. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

After the town of Koumac, on the west coast, the landscape becomes very wild and the road, narrow, crosses rolling hills. We pass the Malabou Beach hotel before reaching the modest town of Poum. Make a picnic stop at the adorable horseshoe-shaped Nenon Beach, then join the Relais de Poingam, accommodation located on the water's edge. A few more kilometers and you arrive at the hamlet of Boat Pass, the northernmost point of Grande Terre. Terminus! This part of the coast is bordered by the mangrove.

Housing :

Malabou Beach, Baie de Néhoué, 98826 Poum, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 24 24 77. Double bungalow from € 95.

The Loyalty Islands

The most instagrammable spot in the Loyalty Islands archipelago, the Mouli bridge in Ouvéa. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

They are only 100 km east of Grande Terre, but offer an absolute change of scenery. The three main islands that make up this archipelago - Ouvéa, Lifou and Loyauté - each have a very distinct personality but have a very strong Kanak identity as their common denominator. No major infrastructure distorts the beauty of these islands, which are geared towards ecotourism and the discovery of cultural and natural heritage. Long stretches of clear sand, limestone cliffs, lagoons, dense forests ... Nothing is missing. Confidence: this is where the most beautiful beaches of the Pacific are located!

OPEN

Imagine a coral atoll stretching over forty kilometers, almost entirely hemmed by an immaculate beach, bathed in the sparkling waters of the lagoon. Disheveled coconut palms wander at the whim of the trade winds. No one on the horizon. There is only one road, which runs along the lagoon, and very few vehicles. The atmosphere invites you to relax, unless you are tempted by a nautical excursion, with a picnic based on grilled fish, on an island in the coral reef. The most instagrammable spot in the archipelago, the Mouli bridge, which spans a channel, provides an incomparable view of the lagoon.

Housing :

Ouvea paradise, Fayawa tribe, Ouvea 98814, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 45 54 00. Double bungalow from € 272.

Beaupré Hotel, Fayaoué Bay Hnyimaha, BP 52 Fayaoué, New Caledonia. Double bungalow from 138 €.

Lifou

The whole palette of blues can be seen on the sublime beaches of Lifou, the largest of the Loyalty Islands. Not to be missed, the immense Chateaubriand bay draws an arc of a circle of several kilometers, fringed with white sand like flour. Far north, the impressive Jokin cliffs look out over the Indigo Ocean. Fancy a robinsonnade? Walk to Kiki Beach, a well-kept secret, accessible in 40 minutes by following a path in the forest. Other options: Peng Beach, facing west (ideal for the sunset) and Luengöni Beach, also pristine and well shaded. Lifou is also a diving paradise. People come here to discover vast fields of gorgonians and a very varied underwater landscape (canyons, crevices, arches). For snorkelling, nothing beats Jinek Bay, a huge natural aquarium, with calm and protected waters.

Housing :

Drehu Village, Baie De Châteaubriand BP 265 WE, 98820 Lifou, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 45 02 70. Double bungalow from € 126.

The Oasis of Kiamu, tribe of Hnaeu BP 417 98820 WE, Lifou, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 45 15 00. Double bungalow from € 134.

MARÉ

The wildest and most discreet of the Loyalty Islands, Maré is not easily tamed. Discover its traditions that are still alive during the major agricultural festivals that punctuate local life, such as the Avocado Festival in May or the Vivaneau Festival in November. On the nature side, superb coastal paths allow you to discover the jagged coastline and imposing cliffs, interspersed with bays and deserted beaches. Two secret beaches to discover after a stroll: Ekure beach and Ceni beach, in the northeast of the island. End of the world atmosphere guaranteed!

Housing :

Nengone Village, 98828 Tadine, Maré, New Caledonia. Phone. : +687 45 45 00. Double bungalow from € 140.

Isle of Pines

About a hundred kilometers from the mainland, the Isle of Pines is one of the jewels of the Pacific: its turquoise bays with sandy beaches make it one of the most touristic destinations in New Caledonia. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

The Pacific postcard! Only 60 km south-east of Noumea, this island brings together all the ingredients of an island paradise: majestic bays fringed with sandy beaches like talc, sparkling blue waters, columnar pine forests, bottoms breathtaking sailors and isolated islets. Preserved from mass tourism, the Isle of Pines has kept its Melanesian personality and lends its enchanting setting to exceptional experiences. Aboard a traditional dugout canoe, fitted with a wooden hull, a triangular sail and a pendulum, you glide over the crystal clear waters of Upi Bay to reach Oro Bay and its splendid " natural swimming pool ”, ideal for snorkelling and swimming. Other sites to discover in the lagoon: the Brosse islet and the Moro islet. Diving enthusiasts will enjoy the sites in the northwest of the island, rich in sea fans, corals and colorful fauna. History lover? The island also has some interesting historical remains, including the remains of a 19th century prison.

Housing :

Ouré Téra, Kanuméra bay, PO Box 170, 98832, Isle of Pines,
New Caledonia. Phone. : + 687 43 13 15. Double bungalow from € 203.

Nataiwatch gîte, Kanuméra bay, BP 26, 98832. Isle of Pines. New Caledonia. Tel: +687 46 11 13. Double bungalow from € 110.

Read also: New Caledonia: Paradise and blessed pines

When to go to New Caledonia

The best time to travel to New Caledonia is summer and early fall, June to November, during the dry season. Jean-Bernard Carillet / Le Figaro

The best period for part in New Caledonia extends between July and January. The climate is pleasant and the months of July and August mark the whale season. From September to November extends the most pleasant period for hiking and nautical leisure.

From November to April, the warm season or southern summer offers temperatures ranging from 25 to 27 ° C, but also more frequent rainfall, and sometimes cyclones can be quite violent. It is also the wettest period: it is the so-called cyclone season, between mid-February and end of March. The east coast, called "windward coast", is twice as wet as the west coast, called "leeward coast". The air is more humid on the east coast, but the sky is just as sunny.

From May to September, the dry season is a little cooler, but overall it is a spring weather which reigns permanently from one end of the year to the other: August is the coldest month, with temperatures may drop to 17 ° C.

How to get there

With eleven hours jet lag, the trip from Europe is very long for New Caledonia (at least 24 hours, with a minimum stopover). From Paris, the most direct flight is provided by Air France (code sharing with Aircalin; airfrance.fr) via Japan (Tokyo or Osaka), i.e. 24 hours of flight. Departures are daily from Roissy-CDG airport. There are other possible routes from France: via Australia (with Qantas or any other company serving Australia), New Zealand (via Auckland) and even via Helsinki with Finnair (Paris-Helsinki-Tokyo with Finnair then correspondence for Noumea with Aircalin). These routes are longer, but often less expensive. Count between € 1,000 and € 2,300 for a round trip in eco class.

Domestic flights are provided by Air Calédonie (air-caledonie.nc). From Noumea, the following destinations are served: Koné, Koumac, Touho, Ouvéa, Lifou, Maré and the Isle of Pines. Flights between the Loyalty Islands are provided by Air Loyauté (air-loyaute.nc). The Isle of Pines, Maré and Lifou are also accessible by a catamaran, the Betico 2 (betico.nc).

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2020-05-31

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