[Due to the current situation linked to the coronavirus epidemic , the opening dates of the monuments and establishments mentioned in the article are likely to be modified for the year 2020.]
A few weeks ago, the votes of more than 600,000 Internet users propelled Colmar to the rank of best tourist destination 2020 on the European Best Destinations site. No wonder the capital of Haut-Rhin, the birthplace of Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty, is a summary of regional history and culture. Colmar is a city that can be observed, breathed and tasted like a Grand Cru from Alsace. Its alleys, canals, half-timbered houses and gastronomy make it an ideal destination for a spring weekend.
The arrival
The train station is ten minutes walk from the tourist office where you can acquire the tourist pass "Colmar City Pass" (€ 32 per adult, € 28 for 9-17 year olds). This includes: guided tour (1h30), access to the Unterlinden, Hansi and Bartholdi museums, boat trip (or tourist train) and wine tasting. citypass.tourisme-colmar.com
DAY 1: FROM THE UNTERLINDEN MUSEUM TO THE LITTLE VENICE
The Unterlinden museum, a showcase of 15th and 16th century Rhine art, exhibits works of modern art in its underground gallery and its contemporary extension. Colmar tourism
Morning
Enter Colmar through the door of the Unterlinden museum . The latter is worth the trip alone, as much for its works from the Rhine Renaissance (including the famous Isenheim Altarpiece by Grünewald) as for its exceptional setting. This former 13th century convent with a sumptuous cloister was enriched four years ago with an extension signed by the Swiss Herzog & de Meuron. The architects have created a symmetry behind the municipal baths by creating a contemporary building whose volume corresponds to that of the chapel, while the garden adjoining the baths meets the cloister garden. Leaving, we will go to the Dominican church . Begun in 1283, its construction dates mainly from the first half of the 14th century. A major work of architecture of begging orders, it houses the masterpiece of Martin Schongauer, the Virgin with the Bush of Roses , previously exhibited at the Collegiate Church of Saint-Martin.
Lunch break
The simplicity of a tasty flambé pie or the specialty of the region, the Flammekueche, can be enjoyed in particular at Grand'Rue , at Fer Rouge. For the biggest hungers, this friendly brasserie also offers spätzle (Alsatian pasta) with munster and grilled bacon to die for! Other good addresses where to taste flambéed pies: The Winstub in Little Venice , in the eponymous district or even La Soï (reservation required).
Afternoon
From rue des Têtes to the district of Little Venice, the alleys of old Colmar take on the appearance of an open-air museum. Colmar tourism
The architecture so typical of the Alsatian city is appreciated with the nose raised! Start by playing riddles on rue des Têtes : three commercial signs in wrought iron, works by regional illustrator Hansi are hidden there. At the top of the Maison des Têtes, the cooper statue by Bartholdi will greet you. Continue along rue des Marchands and its 16th century Pfitzer house; one of the most beautiful buildings in Alsace will assure you the Colmarians!
When you reach the Grand'Rue you will follow the old customs house. A few meters away, Place du Marché-aux-Fruits, the High Court of 1771 has long housed the most important judicial authority in the region. The remand center installed in the back, in the former Augustinian convent, was the scene of incredible escapes several times! Continuing towards rue Saint-Jean you will admire another achievement by Albert Schmidt, the architect of the Maison des Têtes, in a Venetian style this time. Place des Lavandières , take a break in front of the bistro of the same name. He hosted the filming of "Chinese restaurant". This Chinese reality TV show has boosted attendance in the capital of Haut-Rhin in recent months!
Then stroll through Little Venice with its colorful facades and its typical half-timbering. Market gardeners used its canals to transport fruit and vegetables to the market hall. The latter was also fully restored a decade ago. At the back of the hall, continue through the Tanners district, which barely escaped destruction in the 1960s.
Aperitif and dinner
Woodwork, period stove and stained glass, contemporary shell-style pendant lights, sleek tables, etc. It is the historic brasserie of the Maison des Têtes. Colmar tourism
The alchemy of Alsatian tradition and modernity is appreciated at its fair value in the fabulous setting of the Maison des Têtes . Marilyn and Éric Girardin, the masters of the house since 2015, run a 5-star hotel, a magnificent starred table, but also a renowned brasserie. The latter mixes hotel customers, passing travelers and Colmariens in the "winstub" spirit dear to Alsatians. Sauerkraut has no equivalent! You will appreciate the subtle harmony between wood paneling, cast iron stove and stained glass windows on one side and the shell-like suspensions and sleek tables on the other.
Evening. Nightlife is not wildly lively in the peaceful city of Colmar. On the other hand, you can enjoy from April 3 to 19 the twelve concerts of the "Music and Culture" festival. The opportunity to discover the Saint-Matthieu church and the former Catherinettes convent, renamed Salle des Catherinettes .
Music and Culture Festival, April 3 to 19, 8:30 p.m. Saint-Matthieu church and Salle des Catherinettes.
You can also soak up the nightlife of Colmar by booking a guided tour at the Tourist Office. They are offered on Saturday evenings from April. Some emblematic buildings benefit from a magnificent lighting.
Night visits. Reservation at 03 89 20 68 95. Departure from the Tourist Office at 8.45pm in April, 9.45pm in May, 10pm in June and July, 9.15pm in August, 8pm in September and 7.15pm in October.
DAY 2: FROM BARTHOLDI TO THE GERMAN NEIGHBORHOOD
The city is dotted with works by sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, a native of Colmar. Colmar tourism
Morning. Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi had imagined a monumental flagship statue to decorate the entrance to the Panama Canal. She did not find a financier, but inspired Parisian circles eager to offer a gift to the city of New York. The inevitable Bartholdi museum pays homage to the native sculptor of Colmar through models of his most famous creations such as the Lion (Belfort) or Vercingétorix (Clermont-Ferrand). Continue with a visit to the Hansi Museum, which opened just opposite four years ago. This watercolorist, illustrator and caricaturist from Alsace, restores his vision of an ideal Alsace.
Lunch break
Time seems to have frozen at the dawn of the past century in a setting straight from the Vosges mountains which overlooks Colmar. Traditional floors, arcade in pink sandstone, Jadis et Gourmande offers particularly original traditional Alsatian dishes: fleischnakas , lawerknepfla , etc. Meat cuisine, but a few vegetarian dishes are also a la carte. It is place du Marché-aux-Fruits.
The afternoon
The station, twin of that of Gdansk in Poland, is an architectural testimony of the German presence in the city. Colmar tourism
Do not sulk your pleasure with a boat ride . Go to the two piers at the foot of the bridge, rue Saint-Pierre, for a half-hour walk.
You will then take the Grand'Rue to head for Rue Vauban , near which the two wine estates of the city are located. The Jund and Karcher cellars are located less than 200 m from each other! Taste the famous pinots gris, riesling, gewürztraminer and other crémant from Alsace.
To end your stay, extend your visit to the German quarter, nicknamed "the millionaires ' quarter ". It testifies to the period of the German annexation between 1870 and 1918. The town planning, avant-garde for the time, can be read in its very strict plan, its mansions including some Art Nouveau buildings, its court of appeal monumental where the Colmarians come to take their wedding photos, its water tower and its station from 1906 - certified copy of the Gdansk station in Poland. From Little Venice, take Boulevard Saint-Pierre. Take a detour via rue des Américains , avenue Raymond-Poincaré and rue Schlumberger to reach the station.
Gourmet break
Taste the old-fashioned charm of the Golden Crescent , rue des Marchands, unmistakable behind its pink art nouveau façade. Time seems to have stopped there. Cottage cheese pie is a specialty.
Address Book
Good tables
At JY'S, Michelin-starred chef Jean-Yves Schillinger offers fine fusion cuisine. JY'S / Photo press
La Maison des Têtes - Girardin restaurant (1 star) and historic brasserie. 19 rue des Têtes, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 24 43 43.
Le JY'S (2 stars), 17 rue de la Poissonnerie, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 215 360.
L'atelier du Peintre (1 star), 1 rue Schongauer, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 29 51 57.
The Red House, 9 rue des Écoles, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 23 53 22.
L'Arpège, 24 rue des Marchands, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 24 29 64.
Les Trois Poissons, 15 quai de la Poissonnerie, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 41 25 21.
L'Épicurien, 11 rue Wickram, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 41 14 50.
Pier 21, 21 Quai de la Poissonnerie, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 58 58 58.
Go out for a drink… Or a cup of tea
At the Golden Crescent, 28 rue des Marchands, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 23 70 81.
La Libellule Café, 6 rue de la Grenouillère, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 41 47 30.
Le Boudoir 15 Grand Rue, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 41 45 06.
Formerly and Gourmet , 8 place du Marché aux fruits, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 41 73 76.
Or sleep ?
A 4-star establishment, Le Colombier is one of the charming addresses in Colmar. Colombier Hotel / Photo press
The House of Heads
The 5-star hotel La Maison des Têtes has 21 rooms combining Alsatian charm and modernity. From € 260 for 2 people, breakfasts included. The house also offers, in an independent building, three luxury apartment-hotels to combine comfort and freedom for a long romantic weekend.
La Maison des Têtes, 19 rue des Têtes, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 24 43 43.
The Bord'eau
An American wind blows in the district of Little Venice. A few meters from their Michelin-starred restaurant JY'S, Kathia and Jean-Yves Schillinger have opened the guest house Bord'eau. Three apartments with resolutely New York accents: Tribeca, Midtown and Uptown. A tribute to the journey of the star chef on the East Coast.
Bord'eau, 2, quai de la poissonnerie, Colmar. Phone. : 06 48 09 01 92.
The Colombier Hotel, 7 rue de Turenne, Colmar Tel. : 03 89 23 96 00.
The James Hotel , 15 rue Saint-Eloi, Colmar. Phone. : 03 89 21 93 70.
