It's the year or never to discover Chamonix without the crowds of the high season. Due to the health crisis, most foreigners - 50% of summer customers in normal times - will not come to swoon in front of Mont Blanc.
In order to boost attendance, the tourist office has just launched a program of free activities. Rafting, electric mountain bike outings, pony rides, trail initiation, guided tours, sylvotherapy, hikes with a naturalist guide, adventure trail, open-air cinema, street golf, zumba lessons ... There will be plenty for all tastes and all ages.
Valid from July 13 to August 28, this offer is reserved for vacationers who will stay in commercial accommodation (hotels, tourist residences, furnished accommodation, guesthouses, campsites) in the municipalities of the valley, Chamonix, Servoz, Les Houches and Vallorcine .
In terms of events, two meetings are maintained, but adapted as it should be to the economic situation: the Fête des Guides , a great tradition of the Assumption since 1924, and the Cosmojazz , orchestrated for ten years by Alain Manoukian. This festival was however postponed from the end of July to the end of August.
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Admire Mont Blanc, full view
In 1786, Jacques Balmat (on the right) made the first ascent of Mont-Blanc (4,810 m) then the second the following year with Horace Bénédict de Saussure (on the left). Chamonix Valley Tourist Office
The Mont-Blanc massif is the 3rd most popular natural site on the planet. Geographically, France, Italy and Switzerland share this treasure. But it is Chamonix which holds the business with its valley of 10 km embedded, between 1000 m and 1300 m, between two skylines of summits. Southern slope, the rocky Aiguilles Rouges. North slope, the queen chain and its symphony of cotton domes, sharp needles and crackling glaciers.
In the 18th century, the discovery of the "Mer de Glace" in 1741 by the English Windham and Pococke from the natural balcony of Montenvers (1,913 m) followed in 1786 by the first ascent of Mont-Blanc by the Chamoniards Paccard and Balmat launched Chamonix on the international scene.
Our advice
Today it is a small town in the mountains. Every Thursday, in the old pedestrianized heart, heritage guides tell the fabulous tourist, sporting, cultural and architectural history of this unique Haute-Savoie resort. Two hours of walking for € 9, don't hesitate.
Walk in balcony
The Lac Blanc trail, with a view of the Aiguille Verte and the Drus. OT Chamonix Valley - Morgane Raylat
You can of course go up to the high sites from the valley by forest roads. But hello the drop ... To gain height, it is better to take the ski lifts then walk without exhausting, between 1,800 m and 2,200 m altitude, on the balcony trails.
Hikes not to be missed
North slope , from Montenvers (1,913 m, access by train) to Plan de l'Aiguille (2,317 m, return by cable car) with tracking shot on the Aiguilles de Chamonix and Mont-Blanc.
South slope , the more discreet charm of the Aiguilles Rouges from Planpraz (2,000 m, access by cable car), to the Cornu pass, descent on the other side to the eponymous lake, then return to the starting point for a outward journey -return, by cable car this time, to the summit of Brévent (2,225 m): the most beautiful view of Mont Blanc (4,810 m) and its giant glaciers. By the way, Brévent is today the oldest site accessible by a cable car still in operation: 90 years this year.
Read also: Savoie-mont Blanc: our 10 most beautiful hikes in altitude
Alpage de Balme, last pastoral stronghold of the OT valley Chamonix valley - Célia Margerard
The stroll at Lac Blanc , a great classic, winds along the same slope. At La Flégère (1.877 m, cable car to the village of Les Praz), go up to the Index (2.405 m) by chairlift to join the path, have lunch at the lake refuge, opposite the Aiguille Verte and Les Drus, then descend directly to Flégère by another route.
Finally, at the bottom of the valley , the Balme mountain pasture (return cable car from the village of Le Tour) offers an even different perspective, in a row, on the Mont-Blanc chain. On the Swiss border, this pasture is the last Chamonix pastoral stronghold. The black cows of Hérens and the brown cows of Abondance spend the summer there.
Walking around Montenvers
The Mer de Glace from Montenvers, served by a small red rack train. OT Chamonix Valley - Salomé Abrial
At an altitude of 1,913 m, this natural balcony overlooks the admiral glacier of the massif, 7 km long, baptized "Mer de Glace" by the English Windham and Pococke in the 18th century. Since 1908, a small red rack train has served the Montenvers site in a twenty-minute trip on the mountainside. On arrival, three glaciologists take turns to explain its exceptional environment, the life of glaciers and their suffering since global warming.
In two centuries, the Mer de Glace, which once descended into the valley, has lost 2.5 km in length and more than 150 m in thickness. Today, near Montenvers, it sticks out a grayish tongue in summer, unrecognizable compared to the spectacular white snake bristling with seracs, represented on the engravings of yesteryear exhibited at the Alpine Museum.
Read also: In Chamonix, first winter in Montenvers
A visit to the ice cave (excavated every year) and the Glaciorum, an interactive exhibition on glaciology, round off the excursion.
Our advice
Two options for lunch: the large circular terrace of the Panoramic Mer de Glace , overlooking the frozen river. Or the more intimate of ' Hotel Refuge Montenvers , facing the steep west face of the Drus. Planted here since 1880, this refuge was completely renovated in 2017. The granite building with red shutters now houses bedrooms with bathrooms, but always paneled, and a dormitory reconfigured in "hostel" style. Spend one night there: double room from € 220 with dinner and breakfast.
Climb the Aiguille du Midi
The Panoramic Mont-Blanc gondola and the Grandes-Jorasses. OT Chamonix Valley - Salomé Abrial
"(...) It is truly one of the most sensational achievements that
one can see", wrote in Le Figaro of August 26, 1955, Pierre Voisin, special envoy to Chamonix for the inauguration of the cable car of the Aiguille du Midi. Sixty-five years later, it's still the same wonder when you disembark up there, at 3,777 m above sea level, a bit above the summit (3,848 m), after twenty minutes of lightning-fast ascent in two sections - correspondence to the Plan de l'Aiguille (2,317 m).
Read also: In Chamonix, we walk above the abyss
Here, the flagship attraction is called "Le Pas dans le vide", a well-known (and registered) name for the 2.50 mx 2 m cage, secured to the central peak of the mountain and fully glazed. We find ourselves in the open sky with 1,000 m of abyss underfoot. For a bit, we would forget to raise our heads to look, on the left, at the huge meringue formed by Mont Blanc, Mont-Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and the dome of Goûter.
Another experience is to fly over the Géant circus aboard the Panoramic Mont-Blanc. Unique, this gondola (confirmed opening from mid-July to mid-August) links the Aiguille du Midi to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m), in Italy, near the north wall of the Grandes-Jorasses. During the crossing, the small red eggs come to a halt, several times, above the glacial immensity. Breathtaking.
Our advice
Downstairs, in the cable car's departure station, a “immersive cinema” room has just opened. We settle there standing on dynamic pneumatic platforms, 3D glasses on the nose, ready to fly like a bomber above the summits. Twelve planing minutes with L'oiseau des cimes, film title, € 6 per screening, without the obligation to take the cable car.
Climb then golf
In Praz-de-Chamonix, the panoramic 18-hole golf course. OT Chamonix Valley - Morgane Raylat
The first climbing school was created here in the 1930s on the Rocher des Gaillands, 3 km from the center of Chamonix. Since then, other rock-schools have been built in the valley and a number of routes equipped in the Aiguilles Rouges. The Compagnie des guides offers initiations: from € 47 per person, adult or child (from 5 years), the 3-hour session in a group of four, helmet and harness included. Just stay to rent slippers.
Signed Robert Trent Jones Jr, the Praz-de-Chamonix golf course runs its 18-hole PAR 72 course at the foot of the Verte and the Drus. For the record, as early as 1934, 4 holes had been built and the site cleared using two autochenilles from the famous Yellow Cruise, offered by André Citroën. Green fee from 58 €.
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Practical notebook
HOUSING
The Hôtel Mont-Blanc, an institution since 1849. Fabrice Remberg
Chic 5-star hotel Mont-Blanc , an institution since 1849, in pole position in old Chamonix. Renovated from top to bottom a few years ago and decorated by Sybille de Margerie, it now houses 40 rooms and suites, including a new 100 m² penthouse. Clarins Spa, gourmet table, heated indoor and outdoor pool, outdoor jacuzzi, everything is there. Double room from € 200, junior suite view € 400, penthouse € 1,000.
62, allée du Majestic, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Phone. : 04 50 53 05 64.
Festive atmosphere very "summer camp" (sporting activities, entertainment, music ...) at La Folie Douce , installed in an old Belle Époque palace. In addition to 250 rooms with 4-star comfort, this hotel offers mini dormitories from 4 to 6 beds (reserved this summer for families or groups of friends for health reasons), a restaurant, a bar, a spa and an outdoor swimming pool. Double room with Mont-Blanc view from 90 €.
823, allée Recteur Payot, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Phone. : 04 50 55 10 00.
In the village of Bossons, Chamonix tradition at the Aiguille du Midi hotel , 3-star run by the same family for five generations: 40 rooms, relaxation area, outdoor swimming pool, tennis and renowned table. Double room with Mont-Blanc view from € 84.
479, Chemin Napoléon, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Phone. : 04 50 53 00 65.
The Hôtel de la Folie Douce installed in an old Belle Époque palace. Sweet Madness
RESTORE
At Maison Carrier , Savoyard recipes revisited, chic mountain decor and late lunch service, practical after a long sports morning. Menu from 28 €.
44 Route du Bouchet, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Phone. : 04 50 53 00 03.
In Chamonix-sud, L'Akashon, the restaurant of the Heliopic hotel, bistronomic cuisine, designer surroundings and brand new gourmet Bib. Menu 32 €.
50 Place de l'Aiguille du Midi, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Phone. : 04 58 10 03 04.
In Vallorcine, behind the Col des Montets, the Café Comptoir, fine cuisine, friendly welcome and low prices. Formula at 18 € for lunch. Go there with the little valley train.
Chemin Rural dit du Plan de l'Envers, 74660 Vallorcine. Phone. : 04 50 18 72 43.
MULTIPASS PACKAGE
Summer sesame for hikers and contemplatives, the Mont-Blanc Multipass package includes all the ski lifts of the resort and those of the surroundings (Les Houches, Vallorcine, Saint-Gervais, Megève), as well as the Montenvers-Mer de Glace train and in Saint-Gervais, the Mont-Blanc Tramway.
As an indication, the 6 consecutive day pass costs € 131 or € 406 for two adults and two or three young people under the age of 15. And respectively, € 143 and € 443 for 6 non-consecutive days. More careful in case the weather turns bad.
Health details, wearing a mask is compulsory this summer on cable cars, cable cars and trains. On chairlifts, just leave an empty space between two people. In addition, the capacities of the Aiguille du Midi trains and cable car have been reduced and thermal cameras installed on board.
SUMMER EVENTS NOT TO BE MISSED
Guide Festival, a great tradition on August 15 since 1924. OT Chamonix Valley - Salomé Abrial
The Guide Festival , August 14 at the end of the afternoon in Argentière and, on the morning of August 15, a grand ceremony in Chamonix, on the forecourt of Saint-Michel church. Founded in 1821, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix is the oldest and largest in the world (250 members for life, including 150 in service).
For the 70th anniversary of the ascent of Annapurna, the first 8,000 ', in the afternoon, a round table on Himalayanism (stage, big screen, entertainment) is planned at the Gaillands climbing site. A tribute will be paid to three great figures of mountaineering in the 20th century who took part in the 1950 expedition: Lionnel Terray, Louis Lachenal and Gaston Rebuffat, all guides of the Chamonix company.
The Cosmojazz , from August 16 to 22. Even if it had to reduce the airfoil, this (free) festival retains the formula that made it successful: concerts at altitude sites during the day, followed, in the late afternoon, by concerts in town in the Couttet park. Birds on a wire, Emile Parisien & Vincent Peirani, Laurent Bardainne & Tigre d'Eau Douce, Foehn Trio and Léon Phal are announced.
Concert at altitude during the Cosmojazz. Here at 2000 m, facing the fall of the seracs of the Argentière glacier. Coline Fragnol