It is rare to see behind the scenes of a parade. It is, however, by diving behind the scenes, in the form of a long 8-minute sequence shot, the fruit of a collaboration between the director Cyril Teste and the artistic director of the house Véronique Nichanian, shot in the Ateliers Hermès, in Pantin, that the saddler chose (for lack of parade) to reveal his new male collection.
It all starts in an elevator, where a mannequin, flawless in a suit with a light structure cut from a sky blue shirt material, patiently waits for the signal to be given. In our ears, the sound of a team that checks that everything is in order: cameras, lights, sound. "The performance will start, to follow, lift then title," says a voiceover . Then, accompanied by catchy piano notes (which will only be interrupted by those of Rocks guitar , from Glasgow group Primal Scream, played by one of the models), Véronique Nichanian is busy adjusting the last details of a look where a double-front poplin suit goes together, and a light zip-up jacket shirt made of the same material.
There follows a ballet of exciting silhouettes, where everything seems to be set to the millimeter, and where the blues and stone tones dress loose drawstring pants with patch pockets of military inspiration, flexible jackets, shirts with generous volumes sometimes with double sleeves, in a relaxed elegance which makes all the charm of the masculine collections of the house Hermès. The whole is enlivened by a yellow, fluorescent without being too flashy, visible on linings, tops, or sliding leather belts that will certainly appeal to fans of streetwear .
Obviously, leather, which makes the reputation of the Hermès house, is omnipresent. In calfskin, he dresses a famous parka with technical airs, reversible with the fluorescent lining, but also travel bags, watch straps, elegant sandals. Those of goat and deer, delicate, are printed, with stripes reminding, once again, that of the shirts.
Energetic without being nervous, the video ends after almost 8 minutes on scenes of joy from a team which, under very specific conditions, achieved an exciting performance, where the spectator plunged into the background of the decor of a collection successful, can only applaud.