[Like all of Spain, where the coronavirus epidemic seems to be contained, the Balearic Islands are accessible to French tourists this summer. The obligation to wear a mask has just been reinforced ]
Coves with crystal clear waters bordered by an almost wild nature, vestiges of a unique civilization, rich gastronomy, heritage treasures, four of which are recognized by Unesco ... The Balearic Islands and its main islands (Majorca, Menorca, Ibiza, Formentera or the lesser known Cabrera) offer much more than crowded beaches and exuberant parties. In summer or out of season, here is how to orient yourself in the archipelago according to your expectations. Follow the guide in mallorquín .
Also read: Spain, summer 2020 and coronavirus; what awaits French holidaymakers
Majorca, the elegant
The Cathedral of Majorca, La Seu. Boris Stroujko - stock.adobe.com
The capital of the Balearic Islands, Majorca is also the largest of the archipelago's islands (3,640 km²). It is not uncommon to meet celebrities and even the Spanish royal family who take up their summer quarters in Palma, the capital. Close to the Cathedral and the seafront, La Almudaina is one of their official residences. This old Muslim alcazar transformed into a Gothic palace can be visited most of the year ( € 7 per adult ), and entry is free on Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sundays from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.
Read also: 48 hours in Palma, the trendy port of Majorca
Through the narrow streets of the city center, you can discover other architectural treasures such as sublime stately patios and modernist facades. In the bay of Palma, the prestigious Copa del Rey is organized every summer in August , an international sailing regatta. The 2020 edition is postponed until next year due to the coronavirus.
If Palma reinvents itself despite its skyscrapers which can displease, it is different for Mallorca, which has no shortage of assets for family trips. Starting with the Sierra Tramuntana , a mountain range that stretches along the northwest coast, listed as World Heritage by Unesco. It shelters picturesque villages, caves harboring stalactites to visit absolutely like the Coves of Campanet (15 € per adult), two long hiking trails (GR 221 and GR 222) and archaeological sites such as the Roman vestiges of Pollentia ( € 4 entry). Do not leave the island without tasting the ensaïmada (a local brioche) and the sobrasada (a type of cold meats).
OUR BEST ADDRESSES IN MALLORCA
Where to have a drink?
- Ginbo Cocktail Bar: With more than 300 gin references, this establishment has just launched a new menu inspired by the different nationalities that have taken up residence in Palma. Dare the Bolu , made with gin, mallorquina orange and Argentinian mate. Average price: € 10 a glass. Passeig de Mallorca, 14, 07012 Palma. +34 971 72 21 75.
- Chapeau 1987: Retro atmosphere in this bar specializing in whiskey, whose latest cocktail menu is influenced by local products (apricot, olives, sea fennel, watermelon, etc.). It is with glassmakers and potters from the island that the owners designed part of their bowls. Average price: € 10 a glass. Passeig de Mallorca, 24, 07012 Palma. +34 871 90 43 87.
Where to eat ?
- Fera Palma Restaurant & Bar: In an old palace decorated with works of contemporary art, Austrian chef Simon Petutschnig offers dishes influenced by Mediterranean and Asian flavors. Tasting menu from € 49. ferapalma.com +34 971 595 301. Carrer de la Concepció, 4, 07012, Palma.
The Botànic restaurant. Press photo
- Botànic : In the heart of a lush garden, the restaurant of the Can Bordoy hotel offers a healthy and gourmet menu in which the chef Andrés Benítez creatively uses local ingredients of yesteryear (lentils, cabbage turnips, locust beans, etc.) . Tasting menu: € 45 per person. www.canbordoy.com/botanic/ +34 871 871 202. Carrer del Forn de la Glória, 14, 07012, Palma.
What hotel ?
- Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden: This 5 star hotel is housed in a 17th century bourgeois house, the 24 suites of which are decorated with antiques and design objects . It has a swimming pool in the garden and a jacuzzi on the rooftop. From € 250 per suite, breakfast included. www.canbordoy.com. +34 871 871 202. Carrer del Forn de la Glòria, 14, 07012 Palma.
- El Llorenc Parc de la Mar: The aesthetics of this 5 star hotel is inspired by the city's Muslim past. The icing on the cake: a swimming pool on a modern green and ocher rooftop. From 280 € per double room. www.elllorenc.com/es/ +34 971 67 77 70. Plaça de Llorenç Villalonga, 4. 07001, Palma.
Read also: Ten eco-friendly hotels in Mallorca
Menorca, the eco-responsible
The sublime Cala Macarella, in the southwest of Menorca, considered one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, and which attracts tourists in summer. Press photo
Menorca and its almost 700 km2 declared "Biosphere Reserve" floats a hundred kilometers east of Mallorca. The island is a kind of refuge for all those who are looking for a form of return to nature - it is omnipresent, and tourism has posed signals that have remained discreet. Its landscape is dotted with old rural houses with immaculate walls, which are now dedicated to agrotourism.
On horseback, on foot or by bike, take the Camí de Cavalls (“horse path”), a coastal path designed as early as the 14th century and which connects through abundant landscapes watchtowers, ravines, lakes, ponds, beaches of dream and cliffs.
To the northeast, it crosses the lungs of Menorca: the Albufera des Grau natural park . Around this marshy area, the village of Fornells is an essential gastronomic stopover. You can taste the caldereta de langosta (lobster soup).
Are you traveling with your family? Do not miss the route of the taulas , T-shaped megaliths erected exclusively in Menorca by the Talayotic culture around the year 500 BC. JC
OUR BEST ADDRESSES IN MINORCA
Where to have a drink?
- Cova d'en Xoroi: This music bar has a spectacular terrace perched on a cliff and offers concerts inside a natural cave. From € 10 entry per adult, drink included. It is advisable to book in advance on the site. www.covadenxoroi.com +34 971 377 236. Carrer de Sa Cova nº 2, 07730. Cala en Porter, Alaior.
Ulisses, in the old town of Ciutadella. Press photo
- Ulisses: Shabby chic atmosphere under the arches of a building in the old town of Ciutadella. The bartender Joan Canals just introduced its new cocktail menu where he revisits the classics. Count 8.5 € per glass. https://www.joancanalsbartender.com/es/ulisses-es/ +34 971 380 031. Plaça de la Llibertat 22, 07760. Ciutadella.
Where to eat ?
- Smoix: Chef and owner Miquel Sánchez has preserved the industrial spirit of this former shoe factory, while giving it an elegant and intimate touch. The Michelin guide praised the "Bib Gourmand" excellent value for money (Bib Gourmand) of its local and seasonal cuisine. Tasting menu: € 34.5. www.smoix.com +34 971 382 808, Avda. Jaume Conqueridor, 38, 07760, Ciutadella.
- Nelsons Gastro Pub: Landed 10 years ago from London, Mark Stone opened his restaurant in a century-old house. The marine theme occupies both the setting and the menu: seafood and fish of the day are the specialty. Average price: 20-24 € per person. www.nelsonsgastropub.com +34 871 039 035. Avinguda de Nelson, Son Vitamina Alaior, 07730.
Or sleep ?
- Fontenille Menorca: This 4-star agrotourism hotel (and 5-star services) includes two areas classified as "exceptional cultural goods": Santa Ponsa and Torre Vella. They have a geothermal system and a spa inside an old stone cistern. Cozy and design rooms. From € 230 per double room, breakfast included. fontenillemenorca.com/en +34 660 483 350 / +34 971 372 352. Carretera de Llucalari - 07730 Alaior.
- Divina Suites: In a 17th-century stately home, this 4-star boutique hotel offers eight elegant suites with private kitchens. From € 135 per suite, breakfast included. divinasuites.com/fr/ +971 38 50 91 / +34 650 697 485. Carrer Sant Sebastià, 12B - 07760, Ciutadella.
Ibiza, the party girl to rediscover
Dalt Vila, the upper town of Ibiza. Antonio - stock.adobe.com
The island is much more than a Mecca for night parties and therefore welcomes all kinds of visitors. With the family, discover the old town in the homonymous capital (written "Eivissa"), on the south coast. With the Phoenician-Punic Necropolis of Puig des Molins (€ 2.4 general admission, free on Sundays) and the Phoenician site Sa Caleta , the fortified city has been inscribed on the World Heritage List by Unesco.
If you want to escape the crowds, rent a car (around € 25 per day) and head to the north coast where the best preserved landscape of Ibiza stretches. It harbors crystal-clear coves surrounded by pine forests and white-walled villages like Sant Joan de Labritja or San Carlos de Peralta . The latter is still inhabited by the hippie spirit that arrived on the island half a century ago. For a discovery of medieval Ibiza, go to Balàfia in the heart of the countryside, which preserves period houses and towers.
On the south coast, the Ses Salines d'Ibiza and Formentera Natural Park is an essential stopover for discovering the seabed, since its Mediterranean Posidonia meadows are also listed as World Heritage by UNESCO. They are home to rare species, such as the speckled seahorse. All over the island, taste the flaó , a kind of mint and anise cheesecake dating back to the Middle Ages.
Read also: Ibiza, Formentera: beautiful islands at sea
OUR BEST ADDRESSES IN IBIZA
Where to have a drink?
- Boodiou: 100% homemade cocktails by the French bartender Tony Comas. The spirits are produced in the family distillery and partner BOWS in Montauban (Occitanie). From € 9 a glass. boodiou.es +34 689 76 33 46. Carrer de la Mare de Déu, 10, 07800, Ibiza.
- Atzaro Beach: In a cove, enjoy the terrace on the seafront. Wicker furniture and decor in an elegant, relaxing atmosphere. Around € 10 for the cocktail. www.atzarobeach.com +34 971 07 82 28. Playa Cala Nova, s / n, 07849. Scheduled reopening: July 17.
Where to eat ?
- Rebrots: A gastronomic tapas restaurant with Mediterranean accents mixed with Mexican and Asian notes, like the Iberian Tandoori pork. It is run by three siblings, Carlus, Sara and Marc. The latter, architect, is at the origin of the natural and soothing decor of the place. Average price: € 30 per person. +34 971 320 609. Carrer de s'Arenal Petit, 34, 07810 Portinatx, Sant Joan de Labritja.
The Giri Café, in Sant Joan de Labritja. Press photo
- The Giri Café: The discreet facade of this restaurant conceals a lush garden occupied by four-poster beds with furniture made of natural raw materials. It is from the local vegetable garden that a good part of the ingredients come from which compliment a careful cuisine with Mediterranean and exotic influences. Average price: 45-50 € per person. https://cafe.thegiri.com +34 971 333 474. Plaça Espanya 5, 07810 Sant Joan de Labritja.
Or sleep ?
- Hotel Rural Xereca: In a former dairy, this 5 star hotel is surrounded by a garden of orange and lemon trees on which stands a 19th century windmill and a swimming pool. Rooms and suites decorated with simplicity and taste at a starting price of around € 200 per double room. https://www.xereca.es +34 971 316 192. Carrer Torrent s / n, 07813 Puig d'en Valls.
- Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay: Almost all of the rooms and suites of this 5-star hotel have a balcony or terrace with sea views. They are colored with the colors of the island (white, blue, turquoise and gold for sunsets), as well as with local materials (light wood, raffia, wicker, lauze, macramé). The hotel has two swimming pools and a private beach. Starting price: around € 350 in a double room, with breakfast. https://www.nobuhotelibizabay.com/fr/default.html +34 971 192 222 Camí ses Feixes, 52, 07800, Ibiza. Reopening planned: July 10.
Formentera, the sublime (peaceful)
Ses Illetes beach, in the north of the island, in the Ses Salines natural park. Marco Gabbin - stock.adobe.com
Barely 30 minutes by boat separate this island from its big sister Ibiza. The smallest inhabited unit in the Balearic Islands (83 km²) is also the most peaceful, with a white and turquoise coastline. Ideal for relaxation, solo or as a couple.
The two main cities, Sant Francesc Xavier , its capital, and La Salvina , are located in the western part. For an even more peaceful setting, favor the rural landscape of the East of the island, where the curious disembarked from Ibiza to spend the day have no time to go!
The best transport in Formentera remains the two-wheeler. Count 20-25 € per day for a motorbike and 10-15 € for a bicycle, or even 25 € if it is electric. Families can opt for the bicycle, and take the route of the three lighthouses or go on a “hunt” for varaderos , a sort of wooden refuge hut intended to protect boats. Choose Caló de Sant Agustí to the northeast to enjoy a swim in this cove with crystal clear waters.
OUR BEST ADDRESSES IN FORMENTERA
Where to have a drink?
- Chez Gerdi: A chill-out , almost hippie atmosphere on the terrace of this beach club restaurant located by the sea. The classics of mixology, carefully prepared, are offered here at an average price of € 15 a glass. https://www.chezzgerdi.com/formentera/ +34 648 020 106 Camí s'Abeuradeta, 40-45, 07860 Es Pujols.
- Alma Formentera: Specialty in tailor-made gin and tonic in the intimate, neat and illuminated setting of their terrace. From € 10 a glass. www.almaformentera.com +34 644 89 34 02. Carrer d'Espardell, 24, Es Pujols.
Where to eat ?
- Can Pasqual Restaurant: Since 1964, this address offers traditional cuisine, nowadays revisited, in a chic setting centered on wood. Average price: 45-55 € per person. canpasqualrestaurant.com +34 971 327 014. Carrer Francesc Aragó 2, 07872, Es Caló de Sant Agustí.
An authentic Balearic paella, at the Marriterranea, in Sant Ferran de Ses Roques. Press photo
- La Mariterranea: Welcoming and seaside decor in white and blue tones, this restaurant specializes in rice dishes. The ideal place to taste an authentic paella. Count 35-40 € per person. +34 674 274 298 Carrer Major, 42, 07871. Sant Ferran de Ses Roques.
Or sleep ?
- Hotel Cala Saona & Spa: Located in the heart of a cove, this 4-star hotel with its refined and bright decoration offers its customers access to the spa. Some rooms have an impressive sea view. Starting price: around € 250 in a double room, breakfast included. www.hotelcalasaona.com/fr +34 971 322 030 C / Cala Saona, s / n Cala Saona, 07860.
- Gecko Hotel & Beach Club: On the seafront, the rooms of this 4-star hotel are warm and soothing. Some have a balcony with garden and sea views and others have a private garden with a swimming pool area. From 330 € per double room, breakfast included. geckobeachclub.com/fr +34 971 328 024, Playa de Migjorn, Ca Mari, 07860.
Cabrera, the authentic
The 15 km² island is completely preserved from the tourism which prevails in the Balearic Islands. In the distance, the remains of what used to be a castle. Press photo
Measuring just 15 km², Cabrera is the largest "rock" of a group of 19 islands and islets, classified as a national park. Long confined to military operations, the island remained preserved from tourist speculation. The flora of Cabrera is partly made up of endemic species, such as a type of St. John's wort, giving shelter to a local fauna, including the Balearic lizard.
Today, it is still guarded by a few soldiers, who watch, among other things, the paths leading to the medieval castle. A cemetery, a lighthouse, a free museum and an archaeological site complete the few existing constructions: the islet is uninhabited all year round and its occupancy rate limited to 300 people.
It is therefore advisable to book in advance one of the excursions offered (from € 46 per adult) with the two companies that serve the island by ferry: Excursiones a Cabrera and Mar Cabrera. Crossing time: approximately 40 minutes from Colònia de Sant Jordi, in the south of Mallorca.
How to get to Cabrera?
- Excursions in Cabrera: +34 971 649 034
- Mar Cabrera: +34 971 656 403
Our advice: companies apply a 7% discount to online reservations.
An alternative: sleeping in Cabrera
Housed in a former military camp, the only inn on the island can accommodate up to 12 people. Good to know: it does not have a kitchen but a dining room equipped with two microwaves.
Reopening planned for September 2020, due to the Covid-19 epidemic. From € 51 per night. Reservations only online.
Information at the Cabrera National Park Visitor Reception Center: +34 971 656 282.
